LB9 owners with LT1 camshaft
02-11-2004, 08:20 PM
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Car: 1990 Iroc Z Convertible
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700R4
LB9 owners with LT1 camshaft
I currently have a '90 Lb9 A4 Iroc rated at 210 hp from the factory. I do not have the coin to do any major mods at this time however a chance to buy an Lt1 camshaft form a 94 camaro has come about.I have done a search on this and have seen mixed points of views on this swap.I have 3 questions I need answered:
1. Bottom line, is it worth the work?
2. What might need to be changed to work with this cam?
3. How will the SD prom handle the change(I do not want to burn a new prom)
I have read that bottom end will suffer from this swap. I really hope to hear from any 90 -92 LB9 owners who have done this swap to see if it is worth it or not.I realize that this topic has been covered alot but I didn't see any posts from any Speed Density LB9 owners.
thanx
1. Bottom line, is it worth the work?
2. What might need to be changed to work with this cam?
3. How will the SD prom handle the change(I do not want to burn a new prom)
I have read that bottom end will suffer from this swap. I really hope to hear from any 90 -92 LB9 owners who have done this swap to see if it is worth it or not.I realize that this topic has been covered alot but I didn't see any posts from any Speed Density LB9 owners.
thanx
02-11-2004, 08:23 PM
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Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
Ive just completed mine, I added the LT1 cam in it...havent cranked it up yet......
02-11-2004, 11:22 PM
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Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T5
the lobe seperation on the lt1 cam is like 112 or something, the gain isn't gonna be huge.
then again i have the l98 cam so seeing as how you have the peanut cam "unless its a stick" i guess it's worth the effort, but i would wait and get a rel cam before i would do that much work to put a cam in, or pay someone for that matter.
then again i have the l98 cam so seeing as how you have the peanut cam "unless its a stick" i guess it's worth the effort, but i would wait and get a rel cam before i would do that much work to put a cam in, or pay someone for that matter.
02-12-2004, 09:22 AM
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Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
I dont know anything about lobe separation and what it does or mean but the lobe on some of the LT1's are like 116 or 117......Ive got the 12551705 and added 1.6 rockers
02-12-2004, 01:15 PM
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Originally posted by 5SIZ
the lobe seperation on the lt1 cam is like 112 or something, the gain isn't gonna be huge.
then again i have the l98 cam so seeing as how you have the peanut cam "unless its a stick" i guess it's worth the effort, but i would wait and get a rel cam before i would do that much work to put a cam in, or pay someone for that matter.
the lobe seperation on the lt1 cam is like 112 or something, the gain isn't gonna be huge.
then again i have the l98 cam so seeing as how you have the peanut cam "unless its a stick" i guess it's worth the effort, but i would wait and get a rel cam before i would do that much work to put a cam in, or pay someone for that matter.
The cam in question is out of my car. It ran comparable LT1 times, so it didn't really give me much.
222/222, .471/.471 114 (with 1.5 rockers).
Last edited by DR.ZED; 02-12-2004 at 01:18 PM.
02-12-2004, 01:43 PM
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Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
Originally posted by DR.ZED
No, the LSA has never been 112 on a stock cam. That is a radical cam on an LT1. The LT1 cams have always been 115, 116 and in some years 117. There is more lift and duration we're talking about here. It would be a large gain. There is much more to "gain" than the LSA. LSA simply shows where the powerband will be delivered, how "lumpy" your car will sound, and intake reversion.
The cam in question is out of my car. It ran comparable LT1 times, so it didn't really give me much.
222/222, .471/.471 114 (with 1.5 rockers).
No, the LSA has never been 112 on a stock cam. That is a radical cam on an LT1. The LT1 cams have always been 115, 116 and in some years 117. There is more lift and duration we're talking about here. It would be a large gain. There is much more to "gain" than the LSA. LSA simply shows where the powerband will be delivered, how "lumpy" your car will sound, and intake reversion.
The cam in question is out of my car. It ran comparable LT1 times, so it didn't really give me much.
222/222, .471/.471 114 (with 1.5 rockers).
Last edited by Wishmaster's87IROC; 02-12-2004 at 01:45 PM.
02-12-2004, 01:52 PM
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Originally posted by Wishmaster's87IROC
so this will give me a large gain over the "peanut cam" that came in my car...but I dont know about the 90 IROC which came with 20 more HP than my 87 which was only 190...Im sure the 90 is still bigger than what I started with....adding the 1.6 rockers Im right there with the LT4 cam..except the LSA on the LT4 is 115 and im at 117...what will that do or does it matter?
so this will give me a large gain over the "peanut cam" that came in my car...but I dont know about the 90 IROC which came with 20 more HP than my 87 which was only 190...Im sure the 90 is still bigger than what I started with....adding the 1.6 rockers Im right there with the LT4 cam..except the LSA on the LT4 is 115 and im at 117...what will that do or does it matter?
It would be a resonable upgrade, but I have NO direct experience in these TPI motors. Just explaining the dynamics of cams.
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02-12-2004, 07:13 PM
#8
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Car: 89 camaro rs
Engine: 383 .06 over
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10 bolt
to me it wouldnt be a large gain, but to you i guess it would, get a real cam lol.
02-13-2004, 01:07 AM
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Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: 1989 350 4 bolt roller block
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4 Road Race with Edge 9.5" 2800 stall lockup converter
The heads are the real problem here. I like the 93-95 Y/F body cam in the 305. The only problem is the heads won't flow enough to do you any good. Lift won't help with poor heads, only duration.
Get an L98 cheater cam from TPISpecialties. It has the same lift as the L98 cam but more duration. It won't get as good of gas mileage as the cam listed above, but you will get way more rpm. The wide lobe separation will give you a wider power band than a narrow lobe separation. The narrow separation will give you more peak power, but in a narrower rpm range. That's why most early TPI cams had wide lobe separations. They wanted a power curve over the widest possible rpm range. They did a pretty good job of it too!
Get an L98 cheater cam from TPISpecialties. It has the same lift as the L98 cam but more duration. It won't get as good of gas mileage as the cam listed above, but you will get way more rpm. The wide lobe separation will give you a wider power band than a narrow lobe separation. The narrow separation will give you more peak power, but in a narrower rpm range. That's why most early TPI cams had wide lobe separations. They wanted a power curve over the widest possible rpm range. They did a pretty good job of it too!
02-13-2004, 11:36 PM
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Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
stock 87 auto cam... .350 .384 179 194
LT1 cam ........ .477 .480 203 210 w/ 1.6's
has got to make more power.
just gotta!...I hope!
LT1 cam ........ .477 .480 203 210 w/ 1.6's
has got to make more power.
just gotta!...I hope!
02-14-2004, 12:15 PM
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Car: 1992 Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
A ZZ4 cam in a 305 will cause some wackyness without PROM work.
I had no idea that the "peanut cam" was that bad
I had no idea that the "peanut cam" was that bad
02-15-2004, 10:19 AM
#14
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Originally posted by Acceld Z
Steve, IMHO it wouldn't be worth it. I'd try to find a cheap used production LT-4 cam.
Steve, IMHO it wouldn't be worth it. I'd try to find a cheap used production LT-4 cam.
02-15-2004, 06:33 PM
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Car: 1992 Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
It's only identical to the later production Lt1 cams. Zedder is asking about the cam from a '94 LT1. The specs on the LT4 cam are...
203/210 .476/.480 (w/1.6 rockers) 115LSA
Frankly, I think either would be a waste of time.
203/210 .476/.480 (w/1.6 rockers) 115LSA
Frankly, I think either would be a waste of time.
02-15-2004, 09:41 PM
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Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
why would you think that? the cam that is in his 90 is the same that was is my 87. The only difference bwtween his and mine are the lobe sep which my old one was at 15 and his is at 109...
I think putting in the LT1 for almost nothing compared to spending big bucks or a couple hundred for at the least 25hp..is good to me...he says that he is on a budget.
I think putting in the LT1 for almost nothing compared to spending big bucks or a couple hundred for at the least 25hp..is good to me...he says that he is on a budget.
02-15-2004, 11:11 PM
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Car: 1992 Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
Because I don't think the 10hp gain he might see will be worth the nasty job of doing an in-car cam swap.
Steve, if you want the car to be more fun, get a cheap converter. It'll make the car fell like it's got 50 more hp.
Steve, if you want the car to be more fun, get a cheap converter. It'll make the car fell like it's got 50 more hp.
02-16-2004, 10:31 AM
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Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: 1989 350 4 bolt roller block
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4 Road Race with Edge 9.5" 2800 stall lockup converter
With a speed density system, you will have to recalibrate the chip. It isn't anywhere nearly as forgiving as MAF system. If you go with that cam, you will still need a stall converter of around 2600-2800 rpm, so add $500 for a 9.5" lockup converter. BTW, putting a stall converter on a peanut cam is a total waste; you are past your power range before it locks.......
To install the cam with the engine in the car is going to be a royal pain, but less so than removing the engine!!! You will have to drop the starter and pan. Remove the grill, radiator, and condenser. This will necessitate recharging you’re A/C unit (adding to the cost). You will also have to remove the FI unit and timing chain cover. You should be able to reuse your pan gasket but you will need new intake, runner, water pump, and timing chain cover gaskets. You will need to change your oil, filter, and coolant. You will also have to shorten the timing gear locator stub (went brain dead on the actual name...). It’s longer on a Gen II engine than on a Gen I. I believe it will rub on the timing chain cover if you don’t.... That’s easy to take care of....
Personally, I think with a properly recalibrated chip in place (the most expensive item of all) you could gain 40-50 horsepower if........ the heads will flow that much....
Just my $.02
To install the cam with the engine in the car is going to be a royal pain, but less so than removing the engine!!! You will have to drop the starter and pan. Remove the grill, radiator, and condenser. This will necessitate recharging you’re A/C unit (adding to the cost). You will also have to remove the FI unit and timing chain cover. You should be able to reuse your pan gasket but you will need new intake, runner, water pump, and timing chain cover gaskets. You will need to change your oil, filter, and coolant. You will also have to shorten the timing gear locator stub (went brain dead on the actual name...). It’s longer on a Gen II engine than on a Gen I. I believe it will rub on the timing chain cover if you don’t.... That’s easy to take care of....
Personally, I think with a properly recalibrated chip in place (the most expensive item of all) you could gain 40-50 horsepower if........ the heads will flow that much....
Just my $.02
02-16-2004, 07:10 PM
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Car: 1992 Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by Captain C
With a speed density system, you will have to recalibrate the chip. It isn't anywhere nearly as forgiving as MAF system. If you go with that cam, you will still need a stall converter of around 2600-2800 rpm, so add $500 for a 9.5" lockup converter. BTW, putting a stall converter on a peanut cam is a total waste; you are past your power range before it locks.......
To install the cam with the engine in the car is going to be a royal pain, but less so than removing the engine!!! You will have to drop the starter and pan. Remove the grill, radiator, and condenser. This will necessitate recharging you’re A/C unit (adding to the cost). You will also have to remove the FI unit and timing chain cover. You should be able to reuse your pan gasket but you will need new intake, runner, water pump, and timing chain cover gaskets. You will need to change your oil, filter, and coolant. You will also have to shorten the timing gear locator stub (went brain dead on the actual name...). It’s longer on a Gen II engine than on a Gen I. I believe it will rub on the timing chain cover if you don’t.... That’s easy to take care of....
Personally, I think with a properly recalibrated chip in place (the most expensive item of all) you could gain 40-50 horsepower if........ the heads will flow that much....
Just my $.02
With a speed density system, you will have to recalibrate the chip. It isn't anywhere nearly as forgiving as MAF system. If you go with that cam, you will still need a stall converter of around 2600-2800 rpm, so add $500 for a 9.5" lockup converter. BTW, putting a stall converter on a peanut cam is a total waste; you are past your power range before it locks.......
To install the cam with the engine in the car is going to be a royal pain, but less so than removing the engine!!! You will have to drop the starter and pan. Remove the grill, radiator, and condenser. This will necessitate recharging you’re A/C unit (adding to the cost). You will also have to remove the FI unit and timing chain cover. You should be able to reuse your pan gasket but you will need new intake, runner, water pump, and timing chain cover gaskets. You will need to change your oil, filter, and coolant. You will also have to shorten the timing gear locator stub (went brain dead on the actual name...). It’s longer on a Gen II engine than on a Gen I. I believe it will rub on the timing chain cover if you don’t.... That’s easy to take care of....
Personally, I think with a properly recalibrated chip in place (the most expensive item of all) you could gain 40-50 horsepower if........ the heads will flow that much....
Just my $.02
02-17-2004, 01:45 PM
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Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: 1989 350 4 bolt roller block
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4 Road Race with Edge 9.5" 2800 stall lockup converter
If it will ease your mind. Without the calibration of the chip and head work, I think 10 HP is all he will get too. Not to mention losing a lot of low end power....
As far as the converter goes, 1800 is stock for my car. Stock LB9 cam in my 1985 IROCZ is .403 lift intake/.415 lift exhaust 202/204 duration... An 1800-2000 stall would be good for the peanut cam, but a 2800-3000 is going to seriously limit what little powerband he has. IMHO.......
As far as the converter goes, 1800 is stock for my car. Stock LB9 cam in my 1985 IROCZ is .403 lift intake/.415 lift exhaust 202/204 duration... An 1800-2000 stall would be good for the peanut cam, but a 2800-3000 is going to seriously limit what little powerband he has. IMHO.......
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