The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

Hey whats up? I am going to get my engine stroked to a 383 at a local machine shop for $2800! is the price good? the guy usually charges $3800! I actually wasn't planning on doing it now but the car has had a ticking noise coming from the passenger's side head! The mechanic at the shop said it could be a connecting rod going bad so the engine is going bad as well. He suggested I get it rebuilt soon but since I was planning on going 383 in the past I went with that decision. My goal is to try to make about 800hp; can I achieve that with this engine? As far as parts go, I decided on a tpis miniram manifold; I would like to go with 3" collector headers as well. The rest I don't yet and thats where I would like some guidance. The thread is open to any advice and opinions, on what internal as well as external parts I should purchase! Thanks in advance guys!

flaming-ford

iTrader: (7)

well if you want 800 hp out of a 383 your streetability is going to be terrible but, it of course has been done.

basically i'd build a turbo'd setup with a little shot of nos to kool you and maybe methanol or alcohol injection for the intercooler.

you'll need a fully forged bottom end, crank, h-beam rods, pistons, super high flowing heads (afr or better). Big assed solid roller cam would be in suit. Lower compression like 8.5-9.0 to 1. Run about 15lbs of boost and a 100 shot and that should be plenty.

basically on an all motor 383 500hp is about what you'll end up with unless you plan for something completely nonstreeatable.

boosted of course is another story.






btw if your engine is ticking under the valve cover there is a much much much more likely chance that you have a misadjusted rocker arm or a pulled rocker stud. definetly much more likely than a rod knock if your engine runs healthy.

either way you'll never make anywhere near 800hp with a 3k budget.

neagan

iTrader: (7)

Wow! I spent a year designing and selecting my engine parts from searching this 3rd Gen site & several back years of 'Chevy High Performance Magazine' for my 355 replacement long-block, interviewed several builders, inspected shops, talked to locals, etc.

From what I understand, using our poorly casted stock L98 block, we can't go to much over 325-340hp without asking for trouble; which is why I went with a higher nickel content ZZ4 base block to build my package over. Mine is just set up for 75% back-road powerbands and not a track car. I would think to go over 500+hp that you'd be sinking in over three grand just in the valve train alone!!! Are you sure your info isn't a misprint?????

U Definitely don't want your builder to be using one of those 'budget' engine rebuild kits. The odd's of something breaking shortly thereafter are allegedly quite high. If you can't get a one year warrenty from the shop, look elsewhere.....

I'm not trying to put any rain on your 'vision'. I went cheap and will still have probably $3k in the short block; $1500 in the valvetrain (by using barely used high quality parts and some damn good bowl blending on iron heads) and almost $2k in the intake/exhaust. That dosn't even come near the extra price for all new pullies, new sensors, upgraded cooling and fuel, etc. Just my BB sized Be-Cool Radiator cost me over $500 and that was because it was technically a 'used/handled unit'. So that totals a solid $7k in TOTAL costs! I'm only expecting approx 360hp although it'll have some major torque numbers once it's on the dyno.

If you've got a lite engine knock and not a lot of funds saved up, I'd either just spend the money buying one of the slightly used performance engines off the 'For Sale' boards or pull the oil pan and replace the piston rod bearings to get you through the next year. As you probably already know, the used engines usually sell for pennies on the dollar due to blokes like me who insist on designing our own power plant.....

I know my $$$ sounds way to high to be realistic, but the total cost of all the small details just costs a huge amount when totaled up. Nitro

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

Hey thanks guys I appreciate the input! Thinking about it, 800hp does seem overkill for a street car; what maximum hp numbers can I achieve with this engine and still have good streetability?.. Yeah another future plan of mine is to add a dual turbo setup but thats more down the road! I let the builder know at the shop that I was going to be purchasing my own parts Ok heres the tricky part, actually choosing the internals to go with my setup; I'm not too good with the internals of an engine which means I have no clue as to what diameter, size, length width, cc, etc. etc. to look for in each of the parts I need to make a sweet 383? Can anyone help me with that? Thanks again guys! Oh yeah and the price is $2800; the reason for the discount is because my dad happened to find the place not too long ago and it turns out that the owner is a longtime friend of my dad's who he hasn't seen for a long while!

joeblue83

iTrader: (8)

I have the stroker in my car with 470 horse with all forged internals and it very streetable. When this does get done to your car make sure you splay the main, since we only have a 2 bolt main, making that much power with only a 2 bolt would be a disaster down the road somewhere. Any Q just ask

neagan

iTrader: (7)

Hey Pheonix!
thanks for not taking my post as any sort of criticism or a rebuff; I just wanted to be sure we were hearing you right before laying out some good solid answers.
I've been mulling over your initial post this morning and suddenly thought of what I've felt to be the best 383 'science-lab' idea kickaround that I've so far read off of our 3rd Gen board. It's located as a 'sticky' under the very first message/Tech board [aftermarket product review].


Important/Useful : 383 Vortec TPI Dyno Results (and questions) ( 1 2 3 4 5 ... Last Page)
Mike Crews

I relearned so much by rereading the first page just seconds ago! Hopefully you might find some of it worthwhile reading matierial-
Sincerely, Nitro-Nicky

T-rick'srod

Hey neagan, just curious - who was it that told you that 320 to 340 horses
out of a L98 2 bolt main block was "asking for trouble" ? As before, regarding the old "2 bolt vs 4 bolt main" posts - there are LOTS - LOTS - of 600 hp
L98 2 bolt main naturally aspirated engines around. As before, IMCA champ
Lane Whittington builds and races them - just ask him... if you can catch him.


" The secret of life is honesty and fair dealing...
if you can fake that,you've got it made. "
Groucho Marx

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

Alrite I'll keep that in mind! What exactly is 'splaying the main' and what does it do for my engine?

Its cool, I'm just trying to get as much info as I can on building a bad a**
383. I'll take a look at the sticky also and see what I can "learn" from it lol!

I appreciate the info once again guys! Take it e z! L8R!

ploegi

"Splaying the Mains" refers to drilling a two-bolt main block, to use four bolts for the mains. The additional two holes are drilled at an angle, thus, the "splayed" bolts.

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

Right on! I just learned something new !

Rob Wade

Ok.....can you clear this up for me? You are paying $2800.00 for someone to build you a motor that YOU are supplying all the parts for? Is that correct?

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

Well not just 'build'! I mean its already built since its in my car at the moment; the machinist is just going to bore it .30 over and yeah he did offer to do the whole job including parts but I decided to pick them out myself. I did however find some websites that carry stroker kits and they all give you the option of upgrading the parts to forged aluminum. Is he charging me too much since I'm supplying the parts?

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

Oh yeah I completely forgot to ask, can I keep my motor fuel injected? So far the pics of 383s that I've seen are carbed! Thanks.

neagan

iTrader: (7)

Yep, I fudged that- It's more of my understanding that if you use all the factory internals, without strengthinging anything- ALLEGEDLY, stuff will break.
Now for the clarification: I is/are an avid reader and that info came from lots of past hot rod type magazine articles. Eventually, we all start to learn that many articles can be flat out WRONG. I've even found glaring mis information in the F-body owners favorite New Testement ( Shellby, CAMARO PERFORMANCE HANDBOOK).

Frum all the reading and studying of 3rd Gen posts, I figured that it would behoove me to dump my factory high mileage engine and start with a higher nickle content 4-bolt block; especially since I've got the urge for a 7000rpm redline (for the occasional missed shift or drivetrain breakage).

So now I just have to ask; Lane Whittington uses the stock block as is but just installs top end parts for his racing engine's???? You've got absolutely no argument frum me, and I certainly don't need to be 'right'. I'm actually asking for you to educate me on what's actually possible. Thanks for calling me on my ignorance- Nitro

Rob Wade

If your supplying all of the parts and he is just punching the block + 0.030 then yeah, your paying to much. Check this out www.sdparts.com search part # 12499106. For $500.00 more you get a brand new (BRAND NEW!!) GM 383 short block......brand new...not rebuilt with offshore chinese junk! With a warranty. So yeah for $2800.00 plus you supply the parts, I think you are paying to much. Even a $2800.00, he supplies the parts your paying to much. Remember there is a LOT of offshore garbage being sold as "good quality" engine parts. If the price is pretty cheap.....you can bet the quality is. BTW a stock GM cast crank will take 500 HP all day long.......and I've done it in a stick car which is way more violent than an automatic car. I would suggest you do some more research...like your doing right now. You will find there are many different suppliers and the quality varies greatly.

neagan

iTrader: (7)

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

.....think of it like in those Penthouse Letters: "she lazely splayed out her legs while I took the scissors and clipped one side of her lace panties off....."
so it's kinda at a kinky angle.... Nitro

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

coredevice

I did mine for about 8000. It is s atreet car, it was a L98 and I am at 550-600hp. The car runs great you just have to use the right parts. Go take a look.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...-car-what.html

neagan

iTrader: (7)

....And did you stroke it before you splayed it?????
NitrodamnI'mboredandno,itsnotboredstrokedandsplayedbutshe'sgonnabe

coredevice

I am not going to lie. I payed to have my motor built 100%. It is my knowledge that what makes it a stroker is that your using a 400 crankshaft right? So realistically you could have a two bolt main? Well I do know for a fact he made mine a 4 bolt....what order he did it in....I don't know. I am interested to learn though.......well I guess thats why we are here.....some to learn and some to teach. Also if you read your comment "And did you stroke it before you splayed it?????"..... that is pretty funny...think about it....cracked me up

tpicamarokid85

i am planning on a 383 build myself... i priced the machine work at a race motor machine shop and the price to get the block cleaned, magnafluxed (checked for cracks), bored and honed .030 over, and decked for $330. for a few extra bucks they will clear the block for the longer stroke. i didnt get a price on getting splayed bolts in the mains but is great insurance especially if you plan on turbos, they will help keep the crank from wobbling or a main bolt cracking... because a two bolt main is not strong enough for a turbo or supercharger or nitrious imo

tpicamarokid85

he would have to drill for the splay bolts before assymbling the block because of the metal shavings from the drill press... search , i know dart makes a block with splayed bolts... maybe the have a closeup of it to show you exactly what they are.... and yes... the 383 uses a 400 crank but aftermarket parts allow to use the crrect journal of the 350 with the extr stroke of the 400.... though a stock 400 cran can be used... its easier to fit an aftermarket 383 crank.

doc

I see alot of stuff above that just is not right.

Phoenix: If you are building this short block with the goal of eventually making 800 Hp, well 2 things, 1) it will never be streetable, and 2) you must used a turbo or SC. An NA 383 will never make 800 Hp with the TPI stuff.

Also, the block must have 4 bolt mains as stated above, and the rotating assembly must be a high quality all forged pieces.

I recommend that you step back and do more research on your project. Rethink your goal of 800 Hp. You could have a streetable EFI car having 500 to 600 RWHp and run in the 11s easy,,, and be the envy of most hot rod car owners. You have to think about: block, crank, rods, displacement, fuel delivery, tuning, heads, cam, headers, clutch, tranny, rear end, etc. You dont have to know the answer to all of this now, but start with the engine components.

tpicamarokid85

i agree... the tpi settup WILL NOT flow enough air for the 383, i suggest hsr or mini ram... even with porting or siamiesing there will not be enough air... and with a turbo packing air in , it needs to flow, check out the stealth ram... thats my favorite! you will also need heads tha will flow... i am planning on the 195 super street/strip heads... and matching cam do some research, and when you think you know enough about it, research some more... you can never know too much about a motor build, there is always something to learn...

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

Yeah I've decided to step back a little with the HP number and decided to go for atleast 650 rwhp, is that still streetable? and of course im not going to be using the stock TPI unit, im going to upgrade to a mini-ram! As for the engine components do you just reccommend that I buy a stroker kit or pick out the parts individually myself?

Thanks,
Ruben

neagan

iTrader: (7)

Hey Doc! I was just perusing your post and I ran across something interesting in your personal set-up; and since you did your own PROM dial-in, I wanted to know if the two are related:
"Accel SuperRam, 24#/hr SVO injectors, Holley AFPR (52psi),"

From what I've studied, we're supposed to keep our AFPR below 55psi; that the factory units (which are smaller than the SVO's ) came dialed in at a wide range of: 35-47psi. I have yet to explore setting up my own PROM, so I had (I think the company name is close to CHIPS/PROMSforLess set mine up for me.

So my question is, if there was a reason why you selected 52psi for your SVO's??? and if you're aware if it's possible to dial the SVO 24# units up any higher than 55. Was there anything you programed into your custom PROM that required your selected rate of 52psi or was that just an arbitrary decision?

I've set my 24#SVO's at 48psi and my intake is a fully mega-ported plenum, runners, and Edelbrock base. My air flow dosn't start to choke now till around 6200-6300. I'm just curious..... Nitro

neagan

iTrader: (7)

Hey Ruben,
Before you make an intake decision, check out the thread on the BBK 'Turtle Back' TPI intake that they've spent 4 years developing. There's an actual thread list for those who might purchase one, should the flow numbers be up near 280... Nitro

doc

Phoenix: I think that you need to pick out a rotating assembly that fits your goals. For that much Hp, I think that the Callies Dragonslayer crank is a MUST, along with Callies rods or Eagle rods, and good pistons. Search on-line for a complete 383 rotating assembly with the Callies Dragonslayer as the crank. This shop that you are working with,, have them also check for you, what can they come up with.

Concerning the block: On my stroker build, I decided not to rebuild the factory engine, but the save it, therefore, I decided to buy a 4 bolt main GM 350 block to start with. I remember that the block part number ended in 123. I had it bored 30 over and relieved for the 395 stroker kit that I purchased.

Heads and Cam: for that much Hp, you will need huge heads that have at least 200cc intake ports and flow more than 280 CFM at 0.60" valve lift. The cam will need to be very large also, something like a 240/244 or bigger with a valve lift of 0.60" or more. HAVING said that, make sure the pistons have large cuts in them to allow high lift cams.

Your project is very demanding, take your time and learn as much as you can before you buy anything.

doc

neagan; As you see, I "burn" my own chips. I have programmed my Eprom for 27.0 #/hr injectors that is approximately what the 24#/hr injectors flow while at 52psi. I did this so that my BLMs are near 128 in most fuel cells. However, the final fuel pressure that i use will be such that gives my around 12.8:1 AFR while at WOT.

The SuperRam is ported by myself (the first time a ported anything). The SR, 24# injectors and 52psi are not necessarily a matched set, except that that is what works for me and my specific setup. Remember, all this stuff sits on top of a 395 stroker.

BTW: I am maxed out on the 24s, and plan on continue to tune this coming Summer and switch to 30#/hr Ford Racing injectors. I may also switch to the HSR. I also need a higher rated fuel pump.

neagan

iTrader: (7)

Good; that gives me some specifics to think about. If I may ask; what specifically pushed you to up the ante from the 383 to the 395???

I started off conservative because I take trips across the Nevada desert to visit the family farm in South Idaho. I really-really love to fly across the empty flats in order to break my own previous record; so I heavily factored in fuel mileage. I just couldn't find much reference to 383's and their subsequent fuel mileage compared to a 355 build with a small blower....
Nitro

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

Whoa! Never heard of that intake before! is it new? will it outflow a miniram? Hell yeah man I'll definatley check it out! thanks.

Yeah I'm going to do alot of research (mostly on here) until I get a better understanding of the requirements for building a 383 and thanks for taking the time to cover each area of the engine and what parts I will need; not to mention the recommendation on the callies parts; I'll definately google them and check them out! One question about the pistons; where on the piston is that 'cut' located'? Thanks again for all the input guys! Take it easy!

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

Hey I thought I'd mention that a while back I found an ad for an '87 trans that was sold locally here in tucson, the guy had that thing tricked including a 383! One thing that caught my eye about the engine is that he had '69 camaro DZ heads if I remember correctly on it. Anyone know if those would be a good choice? Oh yeah and I couldn't find the thread that has to do with the 'bbk turtleback intake' I even tried doing a search on here but came up with nothing! Where do I look neagan? Thanks again! L8R!

ploegi

This one

doc

The BBK intake that is shown is for LS1 engines, not our L98s.

doc

The 383 with DZ heads is a 1st gen engine most likely. The DZ heads were the factory heads on the 1969 Z28s which had a displacement of 302 cu.in.
I dont think that you want to run that head on your 383.

Phoenix: do you want to stay with an EFI engine management that is like the one in your car now (TPI type with computer control)?

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the link man but like doc said its for LS1 engines unless thats not the one u we're talking about! Oh I thought those DZ heads were a good coice but now I know they're not lol! I would like to keep my EFI but not the stock TPI parts..Im going to be upgrading those as well!

cwyates4

iTrader: (1)

In terms of street abiility, I couldn't imagine going anywhere over 500 rwhp. My corvette, or future corvette (getting the money tomm.) Has a 383 stroker, mini ram intake, 210cc fast burn heads, tpis solid roller cam, 58mm tb, hooker headers; basically every engine upgrade besides going forced induction or spraying. That car pushes the limit to me for everyday driving. Its going to suck waking up and having to drive that, much less something like 650 rwhp. My suggestion is to set an overall goal for the car. Do you want to kill *****s and pretty much anything else on the street, but be not so impressive at the track? Or do you want to wow people at the strip too? realize that with this much power, nearly everything will have to be upgraded to accomodate for the increase. Just know there are limits, if there wasn't, I'd turbo the vette as soon as I get it.

Rob Wade

Ok. Let me ask you this. Honestly. What is the highest horsepower car you have ever owned? I'm not looking to talk down to you. 620 horse is a serious amount of horsepower.......REALLY serious. I owned a 67 Acadian (Chevy II in the states) w/ a 468 BBC that I drove on the street that made a legit, dyno'd 625 horsepower @ 10.25 comp om 93 octane fuel. The car did not resemble anything streetable. Yes I cruised it around town, and even took it on a 40 minute cruise to another town, but they are not street cars at this point. 8 mpg back when fuel was $1.75 gallon? Unless your looking to go with forced induction right from the start, this motor will not be a streetable piece. You'll always be working on it, adjusting, tweeking, resetting valve lash etc. If your going with forced induction, you can't say, "well I'll build it now and add the turbo's/blower later. No...it doesn't work that way. If its going to be FI then its low compression, milder camshaft w/ different specs, etc. The motor will be a slug if you build it to run FI but then don't have the money to finish and run it on motor. You need to understand/figure out what your goals are for this car. At 600 HP you will need a second, everyday vehicle, because you won't be able to drive this one everyday unless its FI and then its going to be BIG BUCKS. Even 500 HP on the street is a rediculously fast car and a pretty wild motor to be in your everyday street car. I don't think your going to be able to build a SBC w/ 600 HP for under $15,000.00.

doc

Phoenix: here is some numbers (calculations) that I have learned (this might help you).

SBC engines (gen I and II) have a block deck heigth of 9.025". Also, at full extension, the top of the piston at TDC is always 9.000" from the center rotation of the crankshaft. This means that the piston is always 0.025" "down the hole" for a factory decked heith block. What does this mean to you? well:

You can calculate the compression heigth of the piston for any combination of crank stroke and rod length because:
(crank throw) + (rod length) + (piston comp heigth) = 9.000"

The "crank throw" is one half the crank's stroke. For a 383 stroker, the stroke of the crank is 3.750", therefore the crank throw is 1.875".

If you select to go with rod length of 5.85", the the piston compression heigth is: 9.000" - 1.875" - 5.85" = 1.275"...

If you select a rod length of 6.0", then the compression heigth is: 1.125"...

The importance of this is that as the stroke and rod get longer, the compression heigth of the piston shrinks, even shrinks down to the position of having the oil & compression rings of the piston located in the wrist pin bore. For this reason, I selected 5.85" rods for my 395 stroker.


Some more important engine math (maybe):

What is the reason max Hp of a natural aspirated engine?

Ideal air flow = [(engine displacement) / 1728] x [cam peak Hp rpm/2]
and actual CFM = 0.8 ideal CFM (approximately)

For a 383 with a cam that produces peak Hp at 6000rpm we have:

383 / 1728 x [6000/2] = 664.9 ideal CFM or 531.9 CFM.. It takes about 1.3 CFM to make 1.0 Hp, therefore, we can expect to make about 409 engine Hp from a 383. That assumes that all the parts are well matched.

Lets look at your goal of 650 RWHp,, that would be about 743 engine Hp.
You need 966 actual CFM or 1207 ideal CFM from the displace of 383 cu.in... The cam will have to make peak power at 10,891 RPM,, OUCH!. Very surprising isnt it?

Phoenix, now dont get me wrong, I am not picking on you. Look at my engine, its a 395 stroker and pulled only 340 RWHp w/o tuning, that was very very disappointing to me, in fact, I was shocked!!!! But now, with some tuning, the car runs a 12.12 sec quarter, not bad. But still, that might be only 350 to 360 RWHp.

cwyates4

iTrader: (1)

Rob, thats pretty much what I was trying to say, you just did a better job, lol. Seriously, however much horses the vette I mentioned earlier puts out (guessing around 550 bhp) is really hard to street. You have to be extra careful everytime you accelerate, and much more aware of your surroundings then you'd like to be. Like stated before, with high power comes high maintainince. After just 5000 miles, the vette has a leaky valve cover gasket. Going from about a 235 bhp car to 500 bhp is just crazy. Not saying anyone here is a bad driver, but anywhere over 300 rwhp is not a piece of cake to control. You can't just say, "I'm going to go slow, not hit the gas hard", because it's just too easy to do.

I can't even make sense of my own rambling.

irocinswfla

I agree with you rob. I have a 71 camaro ss with a crate 383 only pushing 425 horses and about 450 ft/lbs of torque (with a carb !) and that is just barely streetable and only gets about 11 - 12 miles per gal.

coredevice

My advice to anyone who is building a "street rod" is if your worried about miles to the gallon.................you need another hobby....I get about 7 and love it.

WASyL

over 600Hp is hard to drive on streets

here in poland we have cars with over 800 and one supra over 1200HP street legal daily driver car

Best regards
WASyL

shocker89bird

Lol I can't believe all the poor advice this thread has recieved. The right answers are that a 500-550hp 383 are very attainable and with the proper intake setup very streetable, wht i mean by strretable is that a 500hp 500ft lb motor with a 3.08 rear gear and about 3500bs can still run high 11's with traction and not be too bad on the highway with an overdive transmission.

I think being more realistic and shooting for 500-550hp and around the same torque is more realistic. A nice set off 195-205cc heads, a cam with at least 238-250 dur. at .050 and lift around the .560-580 lift, roller rockers, with probably a holley stealth ram 36-42lb injectors,58mm throttle body, windage tray, lifter valley oil plugs, no need for forged crank if you are not running a power adder or spinning past 6500 so a good aftermarket cast crank like from callies or scat would work fine, 4 bolt main caps and main studs, nice timing chain, nice aftermarket oil pan, i would suggest a high volume oil pump for saftey which will work fine if you have a larger oil pan, and the pistons do nt need to be forged either if you are staying NA along with the rods don't need to be H-beams and it will help lighten up your rotating assembly. I agree to no go with 6.00 rod out of preference, it does slow the piston speeed down a bit but also leaves less piston surface to fill the cylinder, it is all prefernce but the weight savings is nice, Exhaust, fuel and igniton uprgades should be obvious.

I have seen it down at this level so these numbers should work but you are looking to spend quite a bit on parts, more in the range of 5000 or so at the least. that is just for the long block with intake. Not including gaskets and all the other upgrades associated with it.

The final piece is some kind of aftermarket computer to control all of this. The stock ecu is a waste of time to mess with at these power levels.

shocker89bird

Doc,
a few reasons to the numbers being disspaointing to you, one is the camshaft that is in your vehicle is under cammed for that size of motor, I think your heads are fine to make over 500hp, and the other is the factory ecu can be holding you back with the maf sensor struggling to calculte the proper amount of fuel needed with a bigger cam. Just my thoughts. no reason with a larger cam you coulnd't pick up another 40whp or so with an aftermarket ecu.

Very nice time by the way. knocking on the door of the 11's is nothing to be upset about.

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

Wow thanx for all the info guys I really appreciate it! I went to talk to the shop owner again about the engine yesterday and this time he tried talking me down on getting it done; he kinda changed my p.o.v. on the engine for now but its still in my plans to get that thing stroked. Anyway he suggested that I just get my L98 rebuilt (for $2500 is that a good price?)! His reason was that 383s are basically race engines and that I wouldn't need one if I was just going to cruise around in it; he also mentioned that friend of his got killed in a car accident racing his camaro with a 383 in it! Basically he is trying to say that its pretty much dangerous with the adrenaline rushing and all that causing you to go faster ! If I was to have the 383 in the car already, I wouldnt necessarily race it all the time but if a ***** or anything tried poking at me I'd definately give him/her a run! The guy also suggested that the engine I have now is powerful enough and with the rebuild it'll run like a scalding dog! I'm not saying that I'm calling the whole thing off, just for now; or what do u guys think?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I'm gonna add some two cents here i'm building a 383 as well. using HSR. Shooting for 400whp if not over, but we will see what the hSR can support.

i want over 500whp on the bottle.

This is realisitc as you can get. 400-450whp is about all a max effort 383 will do that can be streetable. anything more is race oriented or forced induction.

this is pretty much what i'm doing. 195cc AFR's, and a custom grind cam somewhere in the high 230's duration. revving out to 6500-6600.
37 lb injectors is what i'll be running. Gonna be all forged tho for the nitrous hp shot.

Codename 47

iTrader: (4)

If you're going to spend money rebuilding your engine either go with a 383 or 400. The more cubes the better. Buy a set of after market heads, matching cam and go from there. I guarantee you that you will be happy with a low revving (5k rpm range) motor that makes 450hp/500ft/lbs (flywheel). That puts you beyond the Corvette and Camaro range. You'd be satisfied knowing that you could walk any Corvette/Camaro.

cwyates4

iTrader: (1)

Well, almost any corvette/camaro. Watch out for me!

One question pheonix. Is that 2500 that he wants for rebuilding the engine mean he is supplying the parts and is he rebuilding the heads as well? Better be for that price.

Codename 47

iTrader: (4)

I should have said "stock". Oh well