Super Ram install hints
#1
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Super Ram install hints
Howdy. Pondering my nify super ram sitting in the garage and I recall someone mentioning machining that had been done on their super ram to facilitate installation.
Anyone recall what that entailed?
I'm envisioning drilling out the holes in the plenum, perhaps countersinking them some and tapping the holes in the runners so one could thread the bolts in from the top... possibly a bad idea if one ever loosens up, but still something to ponder.
Anyways, anybody done any modifications besides slotting the base of the bolts that thread up into the plenum that would ease
installation?
Thanks!
--andrew
Anyone recall what that entailed?
I'm envisioning drilling out the holes in the plenum, perhaps countersinking them some and tapping the holes in the runners so one could thread the bolts in from the top... possibly a bad idea if one ever loosens up, but still something to ponder.
Anyways, anybody done any modifications besides slotting the base of the bolts that thread up into the plenum that would ease
installation?
Thanks!
--andrew
#2
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Join Date: Aug 1999
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Car: 87 Buick GN
Engine: 3.8L (231 cid) V6
Transmission: 200-4R
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt G80/ 3.42
I've never had to slot the bolts on mine but that is a good idea.
I also read somewhere that using studs threaded into the plenum will help but I don't see how much easier that is compared to the bolts.
Installing the bolts from the top wouldn't be a good idea unless you secure them with safety wire or loctite.
What I've always used is a 12 point 1/4" ratcheting box end wrecnch for those 4 inside bolts. You'll need to disconnect the middle injectors and rotate them out of the way for more clearance. The first time is a PITA but I can have my plenum off in 30 minutes.
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1989 IROC-Z, ZZ3 shortblock with some bolt-ons.
13.20 @ 108.69, 2.2 60'
I also read somewhere that using studs threaded into the plenum will help but I don't see how much easier that is compared to the bolts.
Installing the bolts from the top wouldn't be a good idea unless you secure them with safety wire or loctite.
What I've always used is a 12 point 1/4" ratcheting box end wrecnch for those 4 inside bolts. You'll need to disconnect the middle injectors and rotate them out of the way for more clearance. The first time is a PITA but I can have my plenum off in 30 minutes.
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1989 IROC-Z, ZZ3 shortblock with some bolt-ons.
13.20 @ 108.69, 2.2 60'
#4
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Car: 91 Z28
Engine: Forged 383
Transmission: Pro-built 700R4
Get a hacksaw and cut a groove in the threaded end of 8 plenum to runner bolts (inside bolts). This way you can pull them up from the bottom of the plenum with a good flathead screwdriver. It would also be wise to tap the bolt holes in the plenum, because it's such a tight fit. I didn't do this and I wish that I did. I'm almost done putting my super ram on, but man, the guys on here are right about it being a b.... to work on. It's poorly designed for install purposes, but I hope it pays off in performance.
#5
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Car: 90 IROC
Engine: 406
Transmission: GMPP 93/4L60
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27
I bought mine used, its a big paper weight right now. I hope to have it on the motor soon. The guy that sold it to me tapped the inner runner bolts. so you could run them in from the top. They have lock washers under them. carbs have had bolts in the airflow for years. Ive never had one of them come out and go it the motor. With the lock washers,IM not worried about them coming out. Should make the install a little easyer.
Good luck!
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Black 90 IROC, L98, A4, 323 gear. SuperRamed 406 in the works!
Good luck!
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Black 90 IROC, L98, A4, 323 gear. SuperRamed 406 in the works!
#6
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Car: '87 IROC-Z
Engine: 406 Superram/DFI
Transmission: Auto BTE 3000 conv
I tapped my inside runner bolts. It made things 100000000000000000000x easier when I put it together.
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