GhoSSt

iTrader: (1)

I wanted to make sure I had plenty of meat to stud the distributor into.. I think I went overboard.

Steve91Z28 L98

HA! It can be done. That's exactly what we are gonna do with the LT1 intake for my friend's Vette. We want to be able to still use the big distributor and planned of just cutting all that EGR crap off the back like in the picture. Thanks for posting it.

GhoSSt

iTrader: (1)

My pleasure. I took some hasty measurements and you should have about 1/4 to spare on the inside.


Kelly 'GhoSSt' Rosato

John Millican

iTrader: (1)

My gosh man your evil! j/k
That's one way to keep the large distributer. Hell, next you'll probably cut the top off and extend it upwards creating a larger plenum.

JMatlock88

With all that cut out, add a couple 90deg fittings and braided line in the far corner...could probably work out a remote EGR. Hmmmm..

GhoSSt

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I'll call it a WHAMjet.

LOL


KR

Lionsden

That is

Heres a link of someone else that made the same conversion.

http://members.home.net/millicanga/s...into_a_1st.htm

JMatlock88

If we're doing the LT1 swap, chances are we've read John's site 10,000 times! LOL

Here's mine...

John Millican

iTrader: (1)

Ya, thanks for passing it around. I kntice yours is not drilled yet. Nice picture.

JMatlock88

Yes, it's not drilled... I took that picture just minutes before I packed the intake up and sent it to you! LOL It should be there mid next week. What is your usual turnaround time for the labor? Thanks for the compliment about the picture!

John Millican

iTrader: (1)

7-10 days turnaround, got to remember I do this on the side.

That picture isn't the stock 350 from your '91 is it?

GhoSSt

iTrader: (1)

Mines not drilled either in that pic. Instead of worming out the holes and doing it by hand, I'll mill each side on the bridgeport and then drill each hole after welding up the old holes. More work but the JB Weld just doesn't add true support to keep the manifold from cracking & leaking.

Ions91Z28

JMatlock88,

Looks damn good!... how'd you get the top chromed and without the ribs? They just fill it in a dip the top?

I had talked to you one time over AIM... you had said it was painted black and silver... that... is quite a silver!

JMatlock88

7-10 days is very fast in my books!

John, what do you think about the JB weld issue mentioned above?

No, the manifold is atop a small block 400. It will use a stock 400 crank, beefy rods, and forged TRW's. She'll be topped with afr 190's eventually, but those are just stock castings in the picture. I have a 200 N2O shot ready as well. See ya!

JMatlock88

I like the silver very much also! The underhood will have a silver/black charcoal/red theme. The secret to the smooth top is simply this: Polished Aluminum plate or stainless steel plate and some liquid nails. It sure does look sharp. I also used some mothers polish and an assortment of emery cloth to polish up the rails.

pxtx

A remote EGR sounds like it would be the ticket. I've often wondered, why this was not done before. The way I see it, the small EGR hole in the LT1 manifold doesn't even have to be blocked off since this is where the exhaust gas enters the intake- no need to worrying about anything being pushed out from there. Additionally, the area where the original EGR valve mounts could be modified instead of blocked off. I though maybe adapting the upper hole (the only one that would need to be blocked off) to some sort of pipe plug, then using an EGR system off a 2.8/3.1 would allow a remote EGR system to work. So what do you think, I am missing something? You've guys made it this far!

Px

John Millican

iTrader: (1)

Welding was my first idea. I deceided on cold weld instead
(JB Weld) because I was worried about the extream heat required to fill the holes might warp the machined surface that mates to the head.
As far as filling them I don't believe it's even necessary except for two of the holes where the new ones are very close to the old ones. I did it for cosmetic reasons only and to be sure it won't go back on a LT1 ever again. After I painted the intake you can't even see the JB Weld.
If you really want it filled right without the heat and warpage issues would be to tap the holes and locktight a bolt in from the bottom and grinding the head off flush.

SATURN5

I was thinking of something similar to the vettes with a tube coming from the rearmost exhaust port into a block( possibly mounted where the coil would be) with the valve mounted to it and a second tube into the back of the intake.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

roughly what are 94 intakes worth w/ rails?


Matthew

GhoSSt

iTrader: (1)

I'd say about 100 - 150.00 shipped. Others might disagree.

Ions91Z28

On average... rails, TB, intake with injectors will sell for around 175-200 on ebay. Give or take a little depending on condition.

Greg90iroc

i just have to ask is the heighth right of the distributor? also what are you going to do about the water passages? I take it you are not trying to make this a street driven car? This has got to be a motor that takes life 1/4 mile at a time. Just let me know how the thing runs.

JMatlock88

No, we're talking about a fully functional and streetable adaptation. Look at Millican's site. It is linked above in the thread.