Transmissions and DrivetrainNeed help with your trans? Problems with your axle?
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For the fast et, you need to make lots of power. But, you need to get that power to the pavement as efficient as possible. Energy(power) is wasted while the clutches in an automatic tranny slip(during a shift). The quicker the shift, the less energy is wasted and an increased amount of power is put to the pavement in a given amount of time(quarter mile et). The more power you make, the more power is lost during a shift. Thus, in a stock or mild engine the gains of a quick shift are smaller than a high performance engine. It will also extend clutch (tranny) life by producing less heat and less wear.
A down side is that if the tires break loose while shifting, the benefit of a quick shift is lost(energy is wasted by the wheel spin).
In my opinion, with a 700r4 don't get a shift kit. Install a .500 tv boost valve and corvette servo. It will shift plenty hard. If you think you need a shift kit, gett the trans-go.
One more thing... with a good shiftkit, if you keep traction, you can use the inertia of the spinning flexplate to give 'leap' you forward during the shift. It's hard to explain, I found a website that explained it very well but I can't recall the URL. It feels like a manual that's being power shifted very quickly, but no person can shift as fast as a well setup auto w/ a shiftkit. A 700 w/ a shiftkit can be worth as much as .1 or .2 over a sloppy shifting stock automatic.
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91 Trans Am WS6
Bright White
5.0 TPI auto
Flowmaster 3" 2 chamber catback
Trans Go shiftkit
2000 stall converter
the main reason why people get shiftkits is because they like the tire squeel between shifts under heavy acceleration. now in another case, when you add a high stall convertor, your shifts get a little sluggish. this was siad in the oct. '00 issue of GMHTP. a shift kit is then added to restore the firm shifts it once had. hope this adds a little more light.
Chris
millisecond still helps out:
.067 reduction in 60ft = .1 reduction in 1/4
wait wait wait... z28 kid 93.
I think you just answered my prob that I've had since I rebuilt my tranny in july.
I have a v6, and the tranny died. (in may, was fixed in july)
The tranny is a s10 700r-4 casing & sunshells and the rest consists of a B&M "Transkit" w/ included a shift kit. All it installed in the car. Well when the tranny blew it also took out the TC, so It was replaced w/ a TCI 3200 RPM Torque Convertor. Now, it consistantly launched @ that RPM or close to, so my car and actually spin em' from a dead stop. But the shifts suck. If they were any softer, I dunno..... but they are really weak, everything else is in check, and s where it should be. So is the crappy shifts because of the way higher stall TC? The stock was 2500, this one is 3200.... what do I need to do to get this beast to have a firm shift (hopefully a chirp from the tires?) With a higher stall TC, and a hard shift, this thing should move, and move well (for a 6).
Well I don't have any additional inputs, but a couple of questions...
I have a 700R4 in my Z, it's pretty much stock for now, but planning on adding a new cam and headers later on. My tranny was rebuilt this past summer to the same configuration. I just ordered a transgo kit and am planning on installing the corvette servo, as well. I just wanted a little more stability and firmness in my tranny, not really looking for real high performance, but by reading this post it sounds as though I pretty much don't even need a kit...
I want to acquire a firmer shift (not real hard) and maybe bark the tires between gears under heavy throttle. My concern, too, is that I can very easily spin tires with wet conditions without even trying (just trying to be careful and take off "gently")... Can anybody give me a little more guidance in this area? I "think" I'd like to have the kit, but if it really isn't feasible for every day driving, then please say so. Thanks...
The vette servo really makes the 1-2 shift hard. I almost always get wheel spin. In slick conditions you have to be careful because the tires will break loose and start to slide. This is especially bad when it shifts while turning. The main thing to look at is not to get crazy with how hard you want it to shift. Too hard of a shift will decrease performance and make you car unsafe in slick conditions. I considered taking out the vette servo because 1-2 was so harsh. But, since I added some LCA relocation brackets, the tires just barely break loose during the 1-2 shift. My advice is to install the .500 tv boost valve and see if that is a hard enough shift.
TCI-374301 is 19.69 at summit and can be installed in about 5-10 minutes once the pan is removed.
Shift kits work by making the clutches and bands apply quicker and harder. Some kits want you to take out the accumulator springs or replace them with stiffer ones which will lessen or eliminate the effect of the accumulator which is to soften the shift by absorbing the brunt of the fluids force. Some kits will also want you to drill out holes in the seperator plate which will allow fluid to flow through it faster and exhaust from or apply to active control members that much quicker. They may also want you to reposition or take out check balls which will accomplish the same goals as drilling out the sepereator plate. The kit may also contain springs that are to be placed in the valve body behind certain valves. They may increase line pressure by acting on the boost or pressure regulator valves differently than the stock springs would but their purpose is to increase line pressure. The kit's will make your car "faster" by preserving more of the engine's energy and passing it on to the rear wheels. This is just a broad generalization because every kit is different. As a side note when i put a programing kit in a AOD I had to take out some of the circlips that retained certain valves like the pr and boost valves and replace them with thick steel plate like replacements. They were thick as a nickel and they were all shaped differently and all they did was hold the valves in place. Does anyone have any idea what their purpose would be?
Slow camaro. That stall is way too high!! the stock stall is nowhere near 2000. A stock stall converter is 1200-1300 RPM. Check it out though, I could be wrong.
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'82 Firebird, dead stock, 9 bolt disc rear, over 200,000 miles and still going strong, more to come...
sorry boys.......... stock stall on a V6 maro is around 2500. Peak toque is @ 3900, and peak horsepower is @ 4900. I'm the only person that I know of that has upped their convertor on a 6. So I took note from the v8's and decided that a higher stall TC would help my cars permormance. Not only does it launch better, but the torque multiplication is far better.
Anyway, I fig'ed that a car launching @ 3200 is already in it's "powerband" since peak toque is at 3900. I'm right, right? W/ the higher launch speed it flies through first gear now in a unbelievable manner, VS stock. I started a new thread.... called '88 s10 700r4 vs '88 camaro 700r4.... please help.... check it out.
I was also wandering how to firm up shifts after putting in a 2400 stall converter.I hardley notice the shift kit now,even with the vette servo.Really miss that hard possitive shift
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89 Trans Am tpi 350
Flowmaster
Catback
Shift Kit
Stall converter
Corvette servo
Tpis airfoil
K&N'S
MSD super conductor wires
Free mods
It's not that simple. Some V8 cars have the 1654 RPM converter. That's actually the best V8 thirdgen converter, but it still sucks. Other cars had converters with stalls as low as 1200 I believe.
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91 Trans Am WS6
Bright White
5.0 TPI auto
Flowmaster 3" 2 chamber catback
Trans Go shiftkit
2000 stall converter
Well boys! Let me add my two cents worth. If you live in an area where it NEVER rains or snows. Then go ahead and put in the usual stuff (high stall converter,.500 TV boost,WOT downshift inhibitor,vette servo,B&M shift kit,etc.,etc. But "IF" you will EVER drive it in the rain or snow. Please listen to me. These cool trans tricks can,and will cause an accident. My tricked up '82Z shifted so hard that it was actually hurting my wifes back,and then my back. Then one rainy morning on my way to work while setting at at a traffic light. I (remember that my car really launches well) meshed on the gas to take advantage of a gap in the traffic. As it shifted into 2nd I completly lost control. Luckily I did not hit anyone. But it sure made my realize that dry pavement is the only way to go withthat car. I have since removed the accumulator spacers and reinstalled the springs. (moderator sorry for rambling,it's the safety thing)
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82Z 305 w/comp 270 magnum cam,holly.TH700R4 w/B&M holeshot 2000 converter,& megashifter. 9bolt 3.27 w/1LE rear brakes 70mph@2200rpm ASE Master Tech plus L2
also recently obtained a
'69 chevelle SS396 w/Turbo 400,3.31 posi,11.0 to 1, headers,etc. Latest project car,'86 IROC stock 305TPI hit on left side not too bad
lol, that happened to me too. I was driving in the rain one night, on the gas at about 1/4 throttle. I stop at a stop sign, take a right turn, and accelerate. On the 1-2 shift, the entire car kicked sideways right in front of a cop.. The a$$ end of the car was in the other lane. I nearly **** myself. Fortunately the cop wasn't paying attention, or I probably would have been cited with reckless driving or something... all because of the shift kit.
And that's why I now hardly ever drive in rain, unless I absolutely must.
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91 Trans Am WS6
Bright White
5.0 TPI auto
Flowmaster 3" 2 chamber catback
Trans Go shiftkit
2000 stall converter
Built on Wednesday
[This message has been edited by MrJ (edited December 31, 2000).]
