I've heard that weld in SFC's are better than bolt on, is this true? Also, how much of a difference do they make on a car with T-Tops, thanks.

 

Yes, it's true.

And they make a hell of a difference on T-Top cars.

 

They're MUCH better than bolt-in SFC's.

The reason being is that the bolt holes are obviously a high stress point on SFC's, and the bolting points tend to shift in every direction perpendicular to the bolt's axis.

A good explanation of this shifting action can be compared to a length of steel clamped down in a bench vise.

Take a piece of steel flat stock about a foot long and clamp it down in a vise as tight as you can (this is somewhat like bolting on a subframe connector). now, try wiggling that piece of steel around in the vise, most likely it will stay in place if you tightened it good. If it isn't tightened securely enough, you will eventually be able to move it and shift it around enough to where it is no longer in it's original position in the vise.

Now put an eight foot section of the same type of steel, (about the same length as a SFC), in the same vise. No matter how much you tighten the vise down, you're gonna be able to move that piece of steel since you have sooooo much more leverage.

Your engine puts ALOT more leverage action on your SFC's than you can put on the above mentioned piece of steel, and you also have vibration and the elements of nature and time to deal with on an installed SFC. Think about what those bolts are going through.....alot. Eventually the tweaking action of the SFC's are going to wear away at the bolts and bolt holes, not to mention the steel on the SFC and the mounting points. Eventually you're going to have a somewhat loose SFC, which totally defeats the purpose of having them installed in the first place.

Going back to the eight foot section of steel in the vise. Tighten the vise, and also put a weld bead completely around where the vise and metal contact eachother and then try moving it around.... See what I'm saying?

Your best bet is to get weld-in SFC's. If you already have the bolt-in type, you might as well permanently weld those badboys in arount the bolt holes to help prevent the inevitable shifting that they WILL end up succumbing to.



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86 Trans Am WS6 Black with tinted windows, shaved door handles
ZZ4, Mini-ram, true duals, LT4 HotCam, AFR 195 heads.
***Too many other mods to mention***

"In the future, cities will become deserts,
roads will become battlefields, and the hope of mankind
will appear as a stranger" The Road Warrior

 

If I get some SFC's, where do you reccomend buying them? I believe Summit has them.

 

Get Steve Spohn's....

Definitely some of the best I have seen..

Personal opinion of course....

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Sportsman II 72 CC heads, Pete Jackson gear drive, Performance Resources chip, Edelbrock 1 5/8" headers and Edelbrock cat back exhaust, hi-flow cats, Trans-go stage 3 shift kit, Vigilante 9.5" 2800 stall convertor, SLP cold air induction, SLP roller camshaft, 24lb ADS injectors, AFPR, 3.45 rear end gears, and other goodies...


raven

 

I've heard that if you get the South Side Machine SFC's you can avoid any exhaust clearance problems, but you might want to double check with someone who actually has them.

 

I have Spohn SFCs on a t-top car and had no exhaust clearance problems. They make a hell of a difference!!



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'88 GTA w/ t-tops
355 TPI, TPIS airfoil, Edelbrock headers,
Flowmaster exhaust, cold air induction,
MSD 6AL ignition, ADS chip, 1.6 rockers on intake,
BMR STB, Spohn SFCs
=====
Stereo:
Panasonic CQ-DFX700U
Infinity 4x6, Alpine 6x9
Rockford-Fosgate Punch 400a4
80 watt Bazooka sub

 

I am getting my car back tonight from the body shop, I'll let you guys know all about the clearence problems tomorrow or saturday.

 

I had no problems at all the Global West's version. If you'd like pics, e-mail me.

JamesC

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I have the South Side Machine subframe connectors and no exhaust clearance probs.