Hi, I've just bought some Platinum Rapidfires #2 for my '88 Camaro TBI. They are re-gapped to 0.45. My engine calls for 0.35 gaps. On the web I've read various information about whether I should or should not re-gap the plugs. On my packages it says, you should re-gap to the specifications of your engine. But there are also good experiences with leaving the gap 0.45.

What would you recommend?

Thanks,
Thomas

 

I'm not a gap expert, but I don't think it would make that much of a difference, I'd say go with .40 just to be on the safe side.

 

Thanks a lot, Dakota, for your statement!

Any others you are currently using Rapidfires?

 

Yeah, I've been wondering the same thing. Hope you get some good responses!

 

R45TS's ftw...sbc's don't like platinum plugs in general.

but to answer your question: set the gap to whatever the engine specs are, unless the combo has changed significantly (more compression, WAY hotter coil, etc etc). it does not depend on the plug, but rather the ignition system itself.

my recommendation is to take them back and exchange them for the OE service plug from AC Delco (which should be either an R45TS or CR43TS with the 45's being a step hotter)

 

What do you mean by "sbc"?

I have also ordered R45TS but as it's not that easy to change spark plugs on my car, I thought to use a Platinum plug. Well, I have to say that my current plugs have been in for about 100'000 km. I'm not sure what plugs the pre-owner (or mechanic) put in. I just don't want to change them every 30'000 km. Normally I only change things if something doesn't work fine anymore.

So what do you think could be a negative thing when I use the Rapidfires?

Thanks,
Thomas

 

Sbc is small block chevy, you can run eithier plug you can keep the gap at fourty five or regap them too 35 both will work. As far as ease cut a spark plug socket in half use a 3/4 ratchet wrench i got a stubby one its pretty great.

 

"SBC" means Small Block Chevy.

On engines that are built for high performance, or engines that have high mileage/kilometerage, I usually stick with the copper spark plugs.
They don't foul as easily (in my experience) if the engine is burning a little bit of oil, and copper has less electrical resistance than platinum, so you are getting a hotter spark.

The downside is that you have to replace them more often.

 

Well then... mine has 210'000 km on it and the engine consumes about 1,5 liters / 1000 km. So I'd better stick with the copper ones.

Is it possible that my current plugs are copper plugs and did "fine" for about 100'000 km? I didn't replace them since 9 years without any problems.

What do you mean by "the don't foul as easily"? Does that mean that I would have to replace (or clean) the Platin ones as often as I would have to replace the copper ones because of bad ignition?

@88ricekiller: I didn't understand what you mean with cutting the socket in half and then use a 3/4 wrench. How do I cut a socket? And how does this help? Problem is to get to the spark plugs with the wrench as they are difficult to access. I don't have an auto-lift or so. The plugs are even rusty so using a normal socket is already a delicate matter to get them out without breaking, isn't it? I mean, at worst, the thread in the block could break...?

Thanks a lot,
Thomas

 

that's ~1.5 quarts per 620 miles...good lord that's a lot of oil consumption. i'd be looking at something more than just plugs soon.

plugs are no harder to get to in your car than in anyone's on this site. check this ratchet set out:

http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-to...set-67974.html

 

Yes, I know, it's a lot of oil. I guess it's the valve stem seals and the intake manifold seams, as I have blue smoke when I start the engine after some hours being off. Well I've driven for 9 years with this consumption getting slowly worse. But it has always been about 1 liter / 1000 km.

Actually I'm from Switzerland and I'm afraid to try to get the plugs out. If I break something (as they are already rusty), I wouldn't know how to handle this. I'm not that well-equipped with tools as I'm really a lay person :-) Also I think you can't really get to the plugs from above the car. There are different "lines" right next to them and it's really tough if you don't have different variations of extensions etc. for your ratchet. My mechanic says it takes him about 1 hour.

 

If your going to go through the trouble of doing plugs than do the rotor,cap,and plug wires also. Its always easier the second time around.Its just getting through the first time that can be difficult. I'm a strong believer in doing things myself but if your really concerned than have your mechanic do the job. Its going to take him longer than 1 hour if you decide to do the complete tune up (plugs,cap,rotor,wires.)not to mention the extra for the parts but its called "regular" maintenance that needs to be done.By the way I also use AC-Delco R45TS's

 

Hi

I've already replaced the distributor cap. I didn't get the rotor off, but a new one is already here. I also bought spark plug wires because the old ones look rusty inside the plugs and don't click if I put it onto the distributor connections.

I'd do it myself but I can't imagine how to get to some of the plugs without raising the vehicle and doing it from below. And if I really break a plug or the thread in the block breaks away, I have a problem. I couldn't drive to the shop that is 30 kilometers away.

How long do you use your copper Delco's?

Thanks,
Thomas

 

30,000 miles is about average, so 50,000km give or take.

 

How likely is the thread in the cylinder to break if plugs have been in for about 10 years and don't come loose that easily when you try to unscrew them?

The block of a 305 engine made of cast iron, not aluminum, isn't it? So actually it should be very sturdy...?

 

It's highly unlikely that you'll have an issue.

 

Ok, thanks for this estimation. But it's correct if the worst case happens it could be necessary to dismount the whole engine to be able to renew the thread or take broken parts out of the cylinder? Or are there other possibilities?

 

You slide the cut plug wire over the plug just enough to grab, you don't have to put it on all the way, it makes it harder to get off. then you use it to help you thread it in or even thread them off once you get it started.
You slide the plug socket over the plug by hand (I dont use the ruber piece thats in the plug socket,I take them out)then you use the wrench from the side to grab it on the end of the socket.Keep in mind the longer the wrench or ratchet is the easier it will be to break it loose. You can even add a piece of pipe to the end of a ratchet to extend it. I have never been able to reach some of the plugs from the top. Be sure to use plenty of jack stands. Man I even keep my cell phone with me in case I were to get pined underneath.

 

@ronusmc:

Thanks for your description. But I don't really get what the purpose is. I mean I was talking about a broken thread in the motor block. Am I correct in the assumption that your description is "just" how to get the plug out better if they are hard to get out? I didn't quite understand why / how you use the old plug wire... sorry, I'm Swiss so my English is actually not bad but well in this case ... :-)

Thanks anyway,
Thomas

 

Yes Thomas, he was talking about ways to get the plug out, not about the stripped thread.