I recently purchased an 87 Formula 350 and it has the original L98 engine, its all there, runs pretty well, could use a little tuning. But its paid for... I know the engine was rebuilt about 20K - 30K ago, and the transmission seems to be fine.

Today I was told I could purchase a 1994 Caprice ex-Police car that has the LT1, its all there, but the transmission needs some help as it does not shift into 3rd or 4th, you can drive it in 1 & 2 all day, but when you put it into 3rd its like going into neutral when it tries to shift into 3rd. The Engine also leaks like rain, so I would have to rebuild both the engine and trans, he recenltly put in a new optispark tho. He said I could have it for $500.

I could theoritically sell the 87 Formula for $2500, and pick up the Caprice for $500 Rebuild the engine and trans...

What would you do, I guess assume you have no other money, other than $500 to invest into it.

Mods: If this belongs somewhere else re-direct me, but this seems to be the best as I am dealing with a LT1...

John

 

Unless you just LOVE the Caprice body, I'd keep your Formula. The LT1 in that thing isn't going to be insanely better than your L98 can be or anything. Hell, unless it was a cop car, chances are its the 4.3L L99 little brother to the LT1.

 

Its a real police car, has the spot in the door pillar for the light.

I guess is I should better explain something.

I was thinking of doing 1 of 3 things take the LT1, convert it over to accept a distributor, then use my exisiting ECM and sensors... Should work, I would need to program.

My second idea was to take the LT1, and trans, then put them both into my Formula...

My 3rd Idea would be to take the L98, from my 3rd Formula and then put it into my "Show car"

John

 

There is more than $500 in parts on the caprice.
The tail shaft housing is $150 from GM alone.
It can be used with a T400 x member in old car swaps.
The core on the trans is at least $150.
So you get an Lt1 for almost free.
If you don't want to do all that work then pass......

 

I thought it was possible for the police cars to have a 4.3. I read in a CHP or one of those magazines that the way to tell is to see if it has true duals since the 4.3s had a single exhaust. But if you physically seen the car then I guess you have no doubts.

 

The 9C1 (police package Caprice) could be had with either the standard 4.3 liter L99 or the optional 5.7 liter LT1, for the 1994-1996 model years. See brochures here.

9C1 will be listed on the trunk Service Parts Identification decal, and you'll see green silicone rubber hoses (1T1) as well as the driver's side spotlamp (7X6), among others. LT1 will be listed if it's really an LT1 car, and the emissions sticker under the hood will also specify either 5.7 or 4.3.

As stated above, the L99 had a single exh pipe; LT1 got duals (N10).

On the trans: the 3-4 clutch packs are probably toast, which would explain the trans problem. It's fixable. The engine leaks are fixable. Of course everything is fixable with enough money, so I can't predict what you would need to spend for all the fixes.

Caprice 9C1 vs 3rdgen? If you don't have your own family, then keep the 3rdgen. If you have kids, then the copcar will ultimately be a better choice. Many people with LT1-equipped Caprice/Impalas run 15.0 bone stock, and can run well into the 13s with bolt on mods. The fast times web site for them has many cars deep into the 13s, 12s, 11s, and even 10s. The faster the car, the less street-suited they are though so I wouldn't get too worked up by the really fast ones. The same comment can be made for the 3rdgens that run fast.

IIWY I'd look carefully at the body on the 3rdgen you own and the Caprice, and use body condition plus family vs no-family to make the choice. If you buy the copcar you will want to visit the Impala SS forums web page. HTH from an ex-LT1 9C1 owner.

 

The car sold, I really could not afford to buy it,My daughter had surgery, and I had to see what the damages were going to be from that before I actually invested in another car. I also had the delemma of where to store it, I did not want oil all over my driveway...

Fortunately a freind who has lots of plans but never sems to follow through with projects bought the car. So I may have another chance to get it.

I wanted it for the engine to transplant into my Formula.

But with that said, others will come along.

I am still tempted by some other engine options out there, and a miniram....

when the money is there I will make a decision, I think a crate engine might be a good way to go.

John

 

Theres a 94 caprice lt1 cop car engine + 4l60e tran n all wiring and computer stuff i can buy for $1200 Canadian with 86,000 miles on it. Is this a good price? Id most likely rebuild it but he says it runs good right now.

 

I would say thats pretty good price... 89K & all...

However if it indeed has seen service I would definately have the engine and trans rebuilt, as com cars are usually treated pretty rough.

John

 

those LT1s have iron heads youd want the aluminum ...

 

Actually Iron heads (believe it or not) produce more power than Aluminum heads if the castings are identical. The downside is the weight savings for Aluminum. What you save in weight usually is greater than the extra .5% to 1% increase in power.

JOhn

 

I thought you can run more timing with aluminum heads?

 

You probably can run more timing with Aluminum heads, As they transfer the heat better than Cast Iron away from the chamber. BUt for some reason CI heads deliver more power, under Identical conditions. Its one of those crazy things. I read it in a magazine article a while back, and there was a whole explantion to why, but I cant remember the specifics.

John

 

more power... not that ive seen. more efficient for the street yes. but only with a carb..
I would run a plastic head if it wouldn't melt LOL

 

Yes I agree. I have seen comparisons when all that was done is the heads were changed from iron to aluminum. I mean even the heads were exactly the same except for material and the aluminum heads slowed down the car in the 1/4. But that might be offset by the higher compression you can get away with. The main benefits of aluminum are thicker castings for better porting and are easier to repair. Iron is usually cheaper.

This will help eliminate any arguments. CHP says it best.



http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...38/index3.html

 

the lt1 cast iron head for the caprice,impala and the caddy flow as good as the lt4 alum.heads..those steel heads are very good infact its twin brother would be the L31 vortec head that work real goood!
i am into weight savings so i preferr the alum set

 

No one (that I have seen) has been able to prove the THEORY of cast iron heads producing more power. In fact, I have read at least three tests over the years that disprove this theory. The last one was very recent. I don't remember if it was Hot Rod, Super Chevy, or who (I have too many subscriptions) but both heads were IDENTICLE. They even flow tested the heads to show there was no difference. The aluminum still made a little more power with the same compression ratio. If the theory of being able to run higher compression with aluminum is true then there is even more power available in the aluminum heads.

 

A big reason you see aluminum heads do so well is because most of them have cnc chambers. Vortec iron heads have similar chamber and perform very well too. I dont think it has anything to do with material.

 

Aluminum is also the "in" thing, so if you're younger, ya kinda have to run aluminum.

Us older guys can run CI.

 

I agree.

 

considering i got my info from Mark Mcphail of gm i think he should know what parts do what.
here is something else most youngsters dont know the word VELOCITY this is very important for any street engine not tryin to be a dick or anything but when you get a few engine builds under your belt you will see what works.......cast iron or aluminum, has nothing to do with volume or velocity..will a dart alum. head out flow a dart iron head doubt it but the weight is different and you can run higher compression with an aluminum head cause it disipates heat way better than iron

 

This is the explanation of why this happens that I gathered from another board when this subject was beaten to hell.

Dissapating heat for one is not neccessarily beneficial since heat effects power. So basically the heat that gets dissapated by the aluminum head has to be made up by running more compression. Its basically a wash if you compare the power you get out of CI head and then upped compression of the aluminum head. It really comes down to flow dimensions if you want to compare.

 

THings to consider...

OCTANE -- THe Higher the Octane the SLOWER & COOLER it burns, the Lower the octane the FASTER & HOTTER it burns.

Why is this important???
1) With higher octane your burn is slower and cooler, therefore the explosion is over more of the stroke than a faster hotter burst of energy.

2) By keeping the engine cooler this kind of does the same thing as increasing your octane. Thus slower Cooler Burns.

3) By running a High compression engine, The low octane fuel will "Predetonate" and you get spark knock, which is BAD BAD BAD for performance, not to mention the tops of your pistons. What happens is you get too much detonation on top and not enough during the stroke, its kind of the differnce between taking a small hammer and tapping the top of the piston, OR taking the hammer and pushing it down slowly, which is more gentle and it alows the piston to go to the bottom better... rough analogy I know.

4) With lower temps, Higher compression, Higher Octane, you can advance the timing more alowing more of the fuel to burn therefore generating more power...

THats the way I think about it... As far as my previous statement about Alum vs CI... I am not sure why, but thats what I remember reading...

John