I still haven't got to putting on my sr set up yet. Figured i am gonna wait till income tax time and go w/ heads and a cam also. Anyone have any advice on the best heads and cam that will run good with a 350. And what would i spend for the two? I'm kinda looking for the best bang for your buck set up here. Thanks

 

Need more info on your intended use (daily driver, city vs highway, street vs strip), how much power you want, do you have emissions, are you prepared to "beef up" the power train to handle the power, how much "tinkering" you are prepared to do and how much are you willing to spend?

I can tell you a combo that will make a lot of power, but you must have a powertrain & suspension to match. If that 5 speed is a stock unit from a 305, you should consider building that up.

Lastly, are you prepared to learn how to tune this? If you are going to "buy a chip", the more radical the setup, the less chance of getting a good eprom unless you burn it yourself. Is it currently TBI, SD or MAF?

Figure out your budget first, and then determine what it can buy you.

 

Well the car isn't really my daily driver, i have a cherokee for that. I think i would be happy somewhere in the high 12's in the 1/4 if that's possible. We have emissions here which is why i went sr. The car is MAF and yes i am going to "buy a chip" i don't have the time/desire to learn how to burn proms nor does it seem like anyone in this area has a clue how to help work on these cars ,since the local dealership here told me putting tpi on a car couldn't be done, so i don't want to get to radical here. I am thinking anywhere to $1000 to $1500.Thanks

 

To meet emissions, you will need the best heads you can afford and "mild cam". I'm not sure how stringent they are where you live, so probably the LT4 Hot Cam (218/226 @ .050) is the biggest you can go. That may even be too big to pass emission, and you might need to go even smaller (say 212/218 @ .050)

If you were willing to learn how to program your eprom, you can do certain things to help beat emissions in the eprom. You wouldn't want to drive your car like that with it - it would be strictly for emissions. Traxion was able to sneak a 236+ cam through with a lot of fiddling in the eprom. And once you pass, you change it back to "performance" where it can "pollute good like an engine should" - until your next test. You won't be able to do this with a "bought eprom" though.

But to maximize performance and meet emissions, you want the best heads (with an EGR) you can afford since you are limited on the cam to remain emission compliant. Unfortunatley, your budget will be wiped out by the heads alone.

 

Here in California people are passing the emissions test with 225+ degree cams with no problem. Again it is in the tuning. Check Dyno Don's post in the Southern California section for the latest and he has posted the numbers.

 

Sorry, i should have more clearer on the emissions check. Here it's visual check only. So what do you recommend now? I realize the best way to maximize power and set up would learn how to burn proms, but i think that's a bit beyond my comprehension. I am just looking for something that will put down a decent amount of power w/o having to tune it so much. Thanks again

 

This sounds like really nice project for you. But before we talk about heads and cam, what about the intake manifold. You will need something that easily outflows the factory piece. Do you already have that?

 

Yea Doc .... I got a complete accel sr set up i bought off terry kennedy on the boards last march. It's been extrude hone ported. I have everything i need but i think i might have to go with bigger injectors. I only have 23 lbs right now.

 

That intake is what you need. Injectors: I would keep the 23s and install an AFPR so that you can tune in the right AFR at WOT by adjusting the fuel pressure. However, the best way to do this is to learn to program your own Eproms. I have been doing that for about 8 years. Your current injectors should be fine for a 350, I am running Fords 24s on my 395 SR car now.

Heads: I would go with 190 or 195cc intake port heads from Trick Flow, AFR, or Patriot Performance as my first choices.
Cam: Maybe a 224/230 112 LSA with about 0.55" valve lift and install good springs.

 

Thanks for the advice Doc. Now for the big question. My buddy who owns a garage tells me if i am going to do all this just pull the motor cause it'll be easier. Anyone agree with that? Oh, and i already have a holley AFPR. I am guessing since the fuel rails are the same it'll work with the sr?

 

Yes on the Holley. You can easily get 400 horsepower at the motor with good heads and a mild cam. You will also need a good cold air intake system and a good exhaust system. With that 400 horsepower you can get well into the 12's. The car will idle nice, have good vacuum and be pleasant to drive.

 

I have built up the engine while in the car and I have also done it by pulling the motor. I dont see a big advantage either way. If you do not have enough room in your garage, build up the engine while in the car. Also, it takes two people to pull the motor, and if you do this, pull the tranny and engine together as a unit.

And, you need the right tools and good tools,,, damper puller, english & metric wrenches and suckets, deepwell sockets, 3/8" 7 1/2" ratchets, torx stuff. For installing the SuperRam, especially the little bolts that secure the runners to the bottom of the plenum, you will want a small ratcheting wrench of the correct size here,, this is a world safer in fustration.

BTW: I run the Holley AFPR also, and love it.

Other tools for tuning: fuel pressure gauge, timing light, & volt meter.

 

Thanks Doc, i have most of the tools i need. And i've collected a bunch of articals off of here to make the sr installation as easy as possible. How does this combo look?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...iew=32&N=700+0

 

David, I have thought about this some more, and I recommend that you complete your heads/cam swap with the engine in the car. Even the shops who do the head/cam swaps on LS1 Camaros, do it with the engine in the car. And you may not realize this, but a head/cam swap is alot more difficult on an LS1 car because how much the engine sticks back under the cowl.

Besides, if you have an auto, you can not assemble the SR on top of the engine with the engine on an engine stand because of the running location of the kick down (TV) cable.

Also, take many pictures now of the engine bay and how vacuum lines and wiring is layed out. And take more pictures after you have removed some of the stuff which will reviel more wireing looms and connections. When you go back and start re-assembling stuff, you will find these photos invaluable.

 

I too have been looking for a good set of heads, but if u look closer those heads will not work with your engine, and intake. Those heads are intended for the LT1 And LT4 engines. The cam is correct, but it might be a little big for your combination. Just my .02:

 

Yes, those heads will NOT work on an L98 type engine. Also, make sure that for the cam, you purchase a "step nose" cam. I check Summit Racing for the right part # of the Trick Flows heads.

edit: I think you want these heads; TFS-30400007,
195cc intake ports, 64cc chambers, max valve lift 0.6", valve spring OD = 0.47". Check them out on Summir Racing.

I have had some problems with broken valve springs, it has taught me one lesson, have plenty of room above the actual valve lift for the spring to last. I woul expect that your valve lift would between 0.51" and 0.55"...

 

Does the HSR work with '86 and earlier heads, centerbolt heads, or vortec heads? Sorry for the question in the middle of the thread.