Hi all. I have a very healthy 355. Read my sig for whats done to it. I had a custom chip burned, and this car WILL NOT hold timing. Even with the spout connector unplugged, it just wants to adjust itself. I'll get it around 8 or 10 degrees, and as soon as I plug it back in, it goes to around 15 or 20 degrees advanced! Sometimes it even fluctuates with the connector unplugged. It is also popping like crazy out the intake when I try to give it gas, and it is wanting to suck a huge amount of air through the intake. A freind put his hand up to it and it vacuum sucked his hand to the intake, and it took a lot of force to get it off. I have been playing with this thing for a week now and I have checked and double checked everything!

TPS is right at .65 volts. Fuel pressure is at 56 PSI with the vacuum hose off. These are the settings the guy told me to set it to, and I have tried it at 43.5 PSI as well with no luck. I have checked for vacuum leaks many times. Ignition module is new, computer is new, tried a new ignition wire set! I need some serious tuning help. I am ready to shoot myself, so I am really hoping I can get a little bit of help in this section of the board.

 

it doesn't sound like you have any serious vacuum leaks, other wise your friend wouldn't have had such a problem getting his hand off. because what you said i have to ask, are you running it with the MAF sensor disconnected?
if so, that can cause it to have problems.

how much does the timing move around with the connector unplugged? there is some play between the cam & dist gear, so a little fluctuation isn't uncommon.
also, how much up & down play does the distributor have?

the timing advancing when you plug the set connector back in is normal.
you may want to find what the timing is for the best idle and in & around those areas where it idles at set the timing in the bin to that setting.

 

The MAF is plugged in and working fine. When I unplug the connector, I can get the timing to about 11 degrees, and then it shoots down to about 5 or 10 degrees retarded....sometimes without even touching the distributor. Then when I set it at 11, and plug the connector in, it will jump to about 15 or 20 degrees advanced.

It is a cheap aftermarket swap meet distributor, however it was brand new when purchased. I dont have access to any tuning equipment either, so I am very limited to what I can try.

 

Anyone think this could be a knock sensor related problem? Would explain the timing issue, but not the popping through the intake.

 

I would try a good delco ignition module. Even a junk yard one. Set your timing with the est wire unhooked and the timing should stay steady if not check the timing chain. A loose timing chain will cause this. Remove dizzy cap and roll the engine back and forth by hand. The longer/farther it takes for the dizzy to move the opposite way the worse the slop.

 

Have you ever tried tighting the distributor? Can you turn it by hand without doing anything else? When you plug the est wire back up the timing suppose to advance. This is normal.

 

There is a gasket/spacer under the dizzy. If this is worn/missing the dizzy can move, with the bolt tight.

 

The gasket is still there. I actually found what the problem was as well. I was trying to retard the timing when it actually needed to be advanced! Now the car is running pretty good. It roars when you give it full throttle however at part throttle it stumbles a little. Could this be TPS related?