i hope these pics show up because i just see numbers right now and no pics...

i just instlled the hsr but im not sure what hoses go where. which hose goes here? Attachment 158956

i cant figure out what goes here either.Attachment 158957

what about this attachment in the front of the manifold?Attachment 158958

there are three fittings for vacuum lines on the back of the plenum and i can only find 2 lines to connect to them. there are "small, medium, and large" fittings and i cant find the "medium" vacuum line.

this is on the drivers side... there are 4 "clips" that connect to the injectors but there is an extra 5th one that i cant remember where it went before. i think it may have connected to my stock heads? what do i do with it now?


this plug doesnt have anything to do with my intake but i dont know where it goes. i know it was connected somewhere near my starter, i think it might have plugged into my block?

Thanks a lot for any and all help!

 

Your first 3 attachments dont work.

ok.

vacuum lines.... heres how i routed mine but i didnt use the connections supplied by holley. I got my own vacuum barb connectors so i could fit the factory lines to them. the holley ones were too big of hose, and factory lines are not that big at all.

I used a big one on the back bottom for my brake booster. i got two 1/4" barb fittings and used one for the fuel pressure regulator and the other for the factory vacuum line that runs behind the block. I"m not sure where it goes to but it used to hook into the TPI plenum at the rear/side i believe.

That other hole in the rear i used for the MAT sensor.

there is another fitting under neath the manifold plenum in the middle between the runner towers. I got another vacuum hose barb fitting and ran the factory PCV valve there. I put that on the passenger side and ran a valve cover breather on the drivers side.

That last connector if on the passenger side and goes to the bottom of the motor, its probly for your knock sensor. Knock sensor is right next to the starter. The only other connector that looks like that is the fan switch that is mounted in the cylinder head, on my 89 thats located between cylinders 6 and 8 on the passenger side

that other injector clip must be for the 9th cold start injector that 87 TPI's had. Just cut it off and disable cold start in the computer chip

 

Further confirming 9th injector for an '87, and I'd say the other connector is for the fan temp sensor that's in the passenger head.

 

thanks for the help!


.[/QUOTE]there is another fitting under neath the manifold plenum in the middle between the runner towers. I got another vacuum hose barb fitting and ran the factory PCV valve there. I put that on the passenger side and ran a valve cover breather on the drivers side.[/QUOTE]

isnt the fitting underneath the plenum for some type of air temp sensor? i already have that plugged in. if you put your pcv valve there, where would I put mine?

lets try these 3 pics again...

what connects to this hose?


what hose connects here?


this is on the front of the manifold. not sure what connects here either.

 

i have new heads so i dont think a fan temp sensor will have a spot on the new heads...?

 

you could do that. thats fine. I mounted my air sensor behind the manifold plenum since there are 4 holes and its an easy spot for it. 3 for vacuums and 1 for the sensor in my case. underneath the manifold i used for the pcv valve but it could go anywhere tho. I just found it much easier to have at the middle underneath of the plenum so i didnt have to run a long hose back to the backside of the plenum


Your first picture is for a breather line to the valve cover. The PCV goes on the drivers side on a stock L98 i do believe and the 'breather' goes on the passenger side and connects to that throttle body port. I do believe thats how it goes. I got rid of mine since it sucked oil into the throttle body and really gunked up my intake plenum. I just ran a breather.

That middle pic of the barb under the TB is for a coolant line thru the throttle body then into the manifold water passage. thats the entrance i think and the exit is on the passenger side...taht other hose you have pictured below the first picture it should go to the water valve that hangs over the valve cover on the passenger side. its basically there to keep your TB from freezing in cold weather by running hot coolant thru it. It also heats the plenum and intake air charge up and reduces power in the long run. I'd just leave it open and remove the hose. I actually cut off those barbs on my TB just to make it look cleaner



Lastly that is another coolant passage option. Holley gives you some options with these manifolds. In that pic right below that barb is another hole you need to plug. its another coolant port option to play with but you dont need it.

That throttle body coolant barb in picture two can connect to one of those coolant ports shown in picture 3. BUT as i suggested you do away with the TB heating system, i'd run your water valve to that coolant port you pointed to in picture 3. plug the other hole with a 1/2 NPT pipe plug.

Oh just thought of this one. You could put a fan temp switch in one of those ports if it fits...thats a good option if your heads dont have a sensor location like stock L98 heads do.

I see you put the CTS sensor in the far side port... good call, thats where i stuck mine.

So basically there are 3 coolant port holes for you to do what you want to do.
Its up to you how you want to run your coolant lines and vacuum lines. If you need any pics explaining what i have done i'll gladly get you some

 

very informative, seems that ive done things halfway right, just one ? i have while were on the subject of posting pics i have a connection which im not sure where it goes its close to the brake booster, connection is rather short cant remember where this came off from heres a pic

 

looks like the est quick disconnect

 

dude thanks a lot for your help!

so do you have to somehow plug the barbs after you cut them off?


If i do run the water valve to the coolant port in picture 3, what would i connect the barb in picture 2 with? one of the barbs on the throttle body in picture 1?

i like your idea of connecting the pcv valve under the plenum and the sensor in the back. i think ill try that!

yea man pictures would be awesome!

 

"est" enlighten me, what would this hook up to and do i need it, i also have some loose wires hanging from the bottom of my plenum where do this go

 

electronic spark timing, cant remember where exactly that clip goes, somewhere between the ignition coil, distributor, and ground i think
----------
i believe there is one or two more clips that look like that one, so i could be wrong

 

thanks will take a look tomorrow, maybe a wire might have dropped underneath thanks 4 the help il post some pics on a new thread to get soem input see if everythign looks good

 

Plug the barbs for the TB coolant lines? No i just cut them off underneath and left them open. Its a just an open chamber thru the throttle body for coolant to go thru so i just left it open. I'll get a pic later tonight after work

If you do the water valve to picture 3, you leave barb 2 open and bare or cut it off under neath for a cleaner look. Also cut off the other barb in pic 1, the other coolant barb. That other breather barb in pic 1 that your holding i would plug that for sure

 

im going right now to get some odds and ends connected and start putting on the exhaust. should be easy enough.... should be

 

does the stock alternator bracket bolt on to the hsr manifold? i have an aftermarket one becaue the air conditioning was removed and it does not bolt on.

 

which side is your alternator. my 89 camaro is on the drivers side and did not bolt to the manifold but rather the first header bolt and the serpetine bracket assembly

 

my alternator is on the passenger side and the power steering is on teh driver side. the alternator bracket i have now bolted to the front passenger side bolt on the stock manifold. i think the guy who had the car before me re routed the pullys when he took out the air conditioning. there are 2 seperate belts driving the pullys.

 

am i able to completely eliminate the water control valve and plug the hoses that go to it? there is no room for it with my tall valve covers and it just looks goofy in there. i think i might need it because im pretty sure a hose from the WCV connects to one of the oil cooler lines. right now i have a coolant hose connecting the barb under the throttle body and one of the coolant ports in the manifold.

 

you probly can eliminate the water valve but you will have no heater for the car. Not a big deal if you dont drive in cool temps

but i have tall valve covers and it doesnt have any interference problems with my water valve.

 

thanks a lot man, i appriciate the picture! yea the water valve will fit but im just trying to eliminate everything i dont need to make it look a little cleaner.

 

I have tall valve covers too and extended the one hose long enough to place the valve beside the pass. head.Pic in My HSR swap thread

 

getting closer to finishing up my motor, just a few more questions. i cant seem to connect the ground wires in the back of the motor to the block. someone told me one of the grounds has to be connected to the block...? the 3/8 bolt for the grounds seems to be to big to screw into the block.

can i connect the grounds to aluminum heads?

i am also having a problem with placing my alternator. i got a new bracket from march perf. and now my alternator is angled more towards the center of the motor, which interferes with my coolant temperature sensor. there are two sensors in the front of the manifold... the coolant temp sensor and something else that has an 'injector cap looking' clip on the top. im pretty sure i cant delete the temp sensor, but what about the other one?

 

yeah you can ground to aluminum heads just fine.

That other 'sensor' with injector cap clip sounds like 9th injector for cold start. You can delete that just fine

 

i think i already eliminated the cold start injector, which was up near the other injectors on the drivers side. i think that went to the head. the one im talking about goes to the front of the intake manifold.

is there any ground that i do need to connect to the block?

 

here is a picture of my alternator running into the temp sensor..Attachment 160181 not sure what to do about that. i got a longer belt so the alt would be moved back to make room, but then my bracket wont reach the alt.

im not sure where these are supposed to plug into... they are located in the back of the motor.Attachment 160182Attachment 160183

for the sensor that originally plugged in near the starter, either a knock sensor or the fan temp switch (not sure which one it is), where can i plug this into? i have a picture of the sensor above.

im trying to put a pic of the sensor in teh manifold that looks like an injector clip but its not working

 

 

sorry for so many posts... im just trying to figure out why i cant post pics sometimes.

these are the two plugs behind the motor i mentioned above

 

Any reason you didn't install the temp sensor in the hole next to the t'stat housing?

 

i already have another sensor there, the one that im not sure what it is, with the clip in top. i know the sensors can go in any of the three ports, but i have three fittings that go to them - the coolant fitting that i have connected to the water control valve, the temp sensor and the other one.

 

what is this sensor in the manifold for? do i need it?

 

hey silver gta im also wondering what that 2 prong connection is, currently disconnected on my car let me know if you figure out what it is, as for the other one i was told it was the est quick disconnect, not sure though i have a very rough idle on my hsr swap currently and car will not stay running unless i give it gas

 

2 connections in the rear are probly for EGR, EGR solenoid or MAT. Could possibly be EST line as well as its a single pack connector. If its EST there should be another connector just like it that will mate up to it.

If you delete EGR, the plug will be just sitting there as with the solenoid. Along with the solenoid is vacuum line for cruise control. You can delete all that if you want

that one sensor in the manifold could be coolant temp sender or fan switch or something i think. I never seen a clip like that tho. Only two sensors that have clips *different style clip tho* are fan switch sensor and coolant temp sender to the gauge. Both of these are usually located in the heads, one on each side

Other sensor down in the block by the starter is knock sensor. Definately leave it down there and plug it in

 

plug on post # 30 i believe is the temp sensor for the cold start injector right, i have it unplugged and car started without it, i have the temp sensor in that location, asf far as the est plug it must be cnnected at all times right i have a very rough idle car will not stay running unless i kep on the gas, and rpms are way up would this be do to the est plug thanks

 

yeah EST adds timing advance to the motor and will help run alot better. My 383 base timing is 10 degrees. setting it there with EST disconnected gave it a rough idle but soon as i added the extra spark from connecting EST, it smoothed out.

My L98 however ran fine with it disconnected but was really down on power. ran 14.0 at 94 with it disconnected and made 200whp connected it probly made 235whp and ran 13.7-8's at 98

 

where will I find the connectors that will connect to the 2 connections in the rear? cant seem to find them

so am i able to delete that sensor with the clip? or could there be a spot on my heads for it?

for the knock sensor... i cannot find anywhere to plug it into.

 

knock sensor is right above the start on the bottom passenger side of the block, hope that helps


as for my problem i have the est plug thats right next to the master brake cylinder unplugged, i cannot find the plug where it mates to, i just took the manifold off to replace the gasket i figured the extra space would be useful to locate it, but nothing any idea where the mating plug for the est comes from, its a green color wire single pocket plug which i have, beginning to get frustrated

 

[QUOTE=silvergta;3818980] i cant seem to connect the ground wires in the back of the motor to the block. someone told me one of the grounds has to be connected to the block...? the 3/8 bolt for the grounds seems to be to big to screw into the block. QUOTE]

The grounds are all bolted down to a threaded hole above the oil filter

 

[QUOTE=godreject;3821944]i have the est plug thats right next to the master brake cylinder unplugged, i cannot find the plug where it mates to, the est comes from, its a green color wire single pocket plug which i have, QUOTE]

EST should be tan / black ; it's corresponding plug comes out of the firewall wiring loom , not the engine

 

if it is EGR then you wont really need that connector since no EGR anymore but i believe it works for cruise control too.
The activation solenoid thingy should be laying behind the manifold/blcok on the bell housing...somewhere back there. you can connect that part of the harness

the other i would have thought would be MAT and would go to the MAT sensor installed in the plenum

There are only 5 main sensors for these motors that you need with HSR.
MAT, knock sensor, Fan switch, Coolant sender, CTS. Other than MAF and oil pressure sender, thats all that is on the block/manifold. TB has IAC and TPS sensor, thats it. 88's have cold start so you delete that with HSR. i dont think there is anything yet.

MAT aka IAT, both same thing just different names is one in the plenum. CTS is one that goes to the manifold coolant ports. Knock sensor is in the block on passenger side. harness should wrap around the block over the front between head and accessory brackets, on down along side the block to the starter/sensor
Coolant sender is usually in the head on drivers side but i guess can be located anywhere near hot coolant
Fan switch is usually on passenger side head.

Fan switch, knock sensor, coolant sender have same style connector plug.

where you can get confused is the connector for the fan switch and knock sensor are on the same harness/side but you should beable to figure out how it connects

 

thanks a lot for all the help! i actually figured out some of this stuff tonight. the reason i couldnt find where the knock sensor plug connected to is because there wasnt even a sensor there!

for the coolant sender and the coolant temp sensor, does it matter which goes to the head and which goes to the manifold? right now i have the coolant sender in the manifold and am going to put the CTS in the passenger side head. will that work?

i still cant find the fan switch and its connecter. maybe it would help if i knew what they looked like. anyone have a picture they could put up?

 

i'd do the opposite liek factory does it. CTS in the manifold, coolant sender in the head

i can get a picture later today of the fan swithc

 

thanks a lot! i appriciate it

 

i found a pic of the fan switch, but im still not sure where the plug for it is. is there any way i could have plugged the fan switch connector into the knock sensor? the two sensors look like they have close to the same connections... just looking at the picture though.

is the coolant sender needed for the cold start injector? because if it is i should be able to eliminate the sender because i have already eliminated the cold start injector.

 

That is totaly not true.

Not trying to call you out, but just trying to give out the proper information.

The heater/water valve diverts the coolant away from the heater core when the AC is engaged and is vacuum operated. Taking it out will just run the coolant through the heater core as usual. That is if you still hook it up. On my car I cut the hard line that is attached to the frame on the pass side right after the T junction, so the hose goes strait to the the radiator. The hose from the fire wall I extended to the intake, hence eliminating the coolant/water valve.

Kevin

 

oh i see, thanks for pointing that out. I wasnt sure and thought it diverted coolant to the heater core when the heater was turned on. So all you have to do is run the water line directly to the heater core and you'll still have heat?

 

Yep. I will put some pictures of my set up when I get the chance.

 

Orr89RocZ... where did u get that vacume plug that plugs the vacume line on the passenger side of the TB.... the line that goes to the charcol canister???? i need to get one of those since i will be deleting the charcol canister.

u also have the passenger side altinator and i wont have the top bracket bolt that bolts the alt bracket to the TPI runner base.... how did you all work that out? i dont have the serpintine belt system mines a 87 with different belts for each accessory

 

Lets see, i got that vaccum plug at a autoparts store like Advanced auto i think. It was just a 3/8" vaccum port cap

Its abit tight so i had to oil the fittin abit to slip it on. But after a couple of heat cycles it cracked since it dried out. I no longer use one.

It work for the canister port but it may crack unless you keep it lubed up or something. I dont know whatelse to use.


I have drivers side alternator and my brackets for accessories bolt to the block/heads, not the manifold. There is a support brace on the alternator that goes to the header bolt. thats it for my setup. I dont know how the v belt setups would work

 

sry i meant to say i have the passenger side alternator. and ihave the vbelt system.... im alil worried about that top alternator bracket since it used to bolt to the base at the most forward runner bolt... but my HSR doesnt have one... hmmm

the 3/8" vaccum port cap cracked? lol damn. i want to plug mine up when i put it in. when u left it off did it affect driveability at all?

 

The port that is shown open is not for the charcoal canister. It was for the breather for the pcv system. I capped it cause i thought it sucked in air but it doesnt. Atleast i didnt notice anything sucking in on it. Car ran fine with it open and didnt change when i plugged it. I only plugged it since it looked better