dusterbd

ok, ive already got a good bit of my parts amassed for my EFI conversion on my small block mopar.

using a painless wiring harness for a tuned port corvette
dodge magnum 5.9 fuel rails
ford racing 30lb injectors
7727 ECM
Edelbrock Victor Jr. converted to EFI

still need a fuel pump, return line, regulator, various sensors, and a throttle body (4 barell style)

also need injector bungs to weld into my intake.

any recomendation for the bungs? looking at quality and price.
any reccomendations on a fuel pump? this car puts out just under 400 to the rear wheels at the moment.
will a 3/8 feed and 5/16 return be enough?
what kind of regulator shoudl i be going with? i was looking at the corvette C5 regulator/filter assembly, but remember that the TPI cars had a vacuum reference to them. the C5 doesnt.
any great deal on 4bbl throttle bodys with GM TPS and IAC that i shopuld know about?
also was thinking about the Q45 monoblade throttle body, but dont know how the IAC and TPS will integrate into the GM ECM.

lastly, what to do about a knock sensor. i know the ECM looks for one, i just dont know which one to choose. theres so many.

thanks for any direction you guys can give me.
and i know this isnt a third gen, or even a chevy, but this is the best place for any info that ive found yet.

michael

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Knock sensor must match ECM and engine; be for 90-92 350 TPI

One of the cheaper return style regs, nice and compact
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEI-13301/
Just install direct to fuel rail

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

my thoughts in blue

The_Punisher454

The Q45 TB does not have an IAC you will have to use a remote IAC or mount an IAC unit to a TB to manifold adapter.
The Nissan TPS can be adapted easily, the pinout is online, but I have opted to make a little adapter to use a Delco IAC (just because I like them better).
Seriously the only inexpensive way to do a 4bbl TB is to modify an old Holley carb (unless you have access to a milling machine, then its easy).

For an easier to find/adapt downflow monoblade you could use a vortec pickup/van throttlebody and remove the flow limiter piece from the blade. They already have the linkage clocked to have a horizontal cable with the TB pointing straight up. Vortec pickups have a 90 degree hat that lock onto the TB nicely. The vortec unit is just like the LS1 TB, other than a flow limiter piece that is just rivited onto the blade(easily removed) and the cable mounting angle. They are VERY easy to get at any pick-n-pull (easier to find and adapt than the Q45).

There are also a lot of universal design monoblade throttlebodies on ebay that would be very easy to adapt for around a hundred bucks. I doubt that they have nice bearings and seals on the shaft like a Q45 does, but they might work ok (hard to say what the actual quality is).
As for bungs I think you can get a set of 8 on EBAY for about 45 bucks last time I looked. If you can weld them in thats great, but JB-Weld would work if you had to, or even LabMetal (look it up).

As for the size of the Vortec TB being smaller than the Q45(80mm) it probably wont make that much difference(if any) LS1's use the same thing and I have some experience with a 400+ cube LS1 on a ported factory throttlebody making over 600hp at the rear wheels on a dynojet (scroll down to the MMS 421SD Trans-Am on this page http://www.cardomain.com/ride/775309...irebird/page-2)
The LS1(vortec) TB can get you going easy and cheap, then an upgrade later if its inadequate is easy.

This is a thridgen F-body site, but your right, this IS the best place to find good info on OBD-1 Delco EFI stuff. I dont have an F-body either(anymore) I'm currently working with a custom 54 GMC project myself. The computer dont care what year or brand the car is, I think it may even work on a Briggs&Stratton with a little work.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

For the budget orientated
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Procomp-1000...item27b86a875b

The_Punisher454

NICE FIND! cant believe I never noticed those on ebay.

dusterbd

so if i were to use one of these, what would i do about an IAC?

thanks so much for all the info so far. car ran a factory mechanical motor mounted pump. currently, im running a frame rail mounted holley blue pump, and its loud and i hate it.
so im looking to fab up an intank pump assembly. planning to use the walbro pickups in all 4 corners of the tank once i get there. dont know what kind of in tank pump to run though. id love to have some room to grow my power level later.

thanks for the advoce on the knock sensor and lines. can i thread the knock sensor directly into the water jecket? if so, i have a perfect place for one.

please, keep the advice and discussion coming. the mopar community has yet to get over carbs for the most part, unless its a latemodel drivetrain swap. i seem to be on the fringges due to all the different things i do with my car (autox, track, ccross country, etc).

aghain, please keep the discussion flowing.

thanks
michael

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

A typical single walbro 255lph pump can hang with most setups up to if not over 550-600whp with a boost a pump type high voltage kit. Regular voltage is fine to 500whp easily at normal 43psi fuel rail pressures.

Bosch makes a 340lph pump that should have even more hp potential. I've heard 700-750 but not sure.

The_Punisher454

for the IAC go look at some early 90's era GM cars. Many types have the IAC mounted to a little bolt-on housing which bolts to the throttlebody. There are several types, but a couple of them are really easily adapted. you just need a flat surface to mount them to and two corresponding holes for the IAC airflow in and out.
If you have access to a milling machine or even a good drill press you can make one with a 120degree 5/8"dia countersink bit for the critical seat, I forget the other sizes required but its easy to duplicate if you measure one.

Drac0nic

Curious on the 5.2/5.9 rails. Racepartsolutions sells a set of bungs for a good price, the other thing I was thinking about doing for my self was a set of flange bearings off mcmaster-carr. I think I was looking at 14mm. They are cheap cheap but you'd have to epoxy them in.