I'm getting a small oil leak on the back of my lower intake. I have it sealed with " The Right Stuff" silicon. I'm wondering if my stock PVC system is able to handle the SuperRam 383. I'm just wondering what you guys are doing to keep crank case pressure down with you aftermarket setups??? mods in sig.

 

had a few more end mods with the same intake.and no PVC.
just open K&N filter vents.

if you have a leak. its just a Leak.
that would be My call. nexed time use Ultra Blue or ultra black.
and a good bead at the front and rear of the intake...No gaskets.. at the front and back..just the ultra blue or black permtex

 

Having the same problem with my siamesed TPI setup, going with a catch can...

 

Doing this to your distributor will also help keep oil from hitting the botom of the intake and blowing the rear seal out. It helped me with my miniram... I didn't Oring the bottom so the oil could lube the dizzy gear..
I just use the factory type pcv and valve cover vent to tbody but will be putting a air oil seperator in line.

 

Street Leathal- Is that catch can just inline with the factory PVC system or does it tap into the exhaust to pull excess crank case pressure?

TTOP350- I'm using the factory PVC system and I currently have an inline oil seperator on the drivers side of the PVC system. If I understand your post correctly you had an issue with the back of your intake blowing out oil and that rubber Oring helped your issue? That O ring doesn't prevent oil lubrication to the distributor gear?

 

Just inline with the factory PCV system. Top fitting to the engine, middle fitting to the PCV valve, and the drain is on the bottom. I was outside fiddling with my turbo headers and I took a quick picture of my PCV fitting on the lower intake side to show you how much oil it pulls in (I cleaned it last night). With my setup, it will call for a catch can, as well as a check valve because the PCV valve is very weak in terms of pressurized blow by...



... also, here is a cool video showing you the oil caught from some Mustang guy after 1100 miles;

 

I was having problems with crankcase pressure with mine using the stock pcv setup. It would launch the oil dipstick on every pass as well as leak from the valvecover gaskets. Installed breathers in the valvecovers and problem solved. Since you have a maf system, just be sure you have no breather or pcv plumbing going to the intake if you do install breathers as it will play havoc on the tune.

While catch cans work great on stock engines as far as keeping oil out of the intake, since they utilize the factory pcv valve, it will be ineffective at lowering crankcase pressure in your motor.

Keep using the "right stuff". Just make sure all your machined surfaces are flat and try dry fitting the intake (if you haven't already) and see what clearance you have in the area of your leak. Right stuff is great as long as its fresh. I've heard of problems with older tubes, but I go thru them about a tube a week so they never get a chance to get old. Black permatex tends to turn into little BB's when exposed to synthetic oils. If its something that may be pulled off in the near future, I prefer grey permatex.

 

The Oring is at the top and helps keep oil from going up to the bottom of the intake and also helps keep the oil blowing down towards the dizzy gear.
The groove in the dizzy below the oring is a oil psi passage.
If you look at some aftermarket dizzys they have 2 Orings, one where I put mine and one in the lower part above the dizzy gear. I leave it open because I'm runing a plastic dizzy gear from comp and want it to be over lubed. Had to make a tube sleeve to get the gear to fit.

I also use a gray type sealer thats used in diesel truck shops for my china wall. Its greeeat stuff.

 

I use this inline oil seperator. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SD...3710/?rtype=10
which I would think does the same job as the larger catch cans you guys posted.

Like Matt said I'm sure these will reduce oil in the lower getting into the lower intake I dont think they will do much for reducing crank case pressure if that is indeed my issue?

 

The stock PCV valve reduces crank case pressure just fine, it is the reversal of that flow (boost) in which it becomes inadequate, and needs a check valve in front of it. If your only concern is the PCV valve not taking in enough crank case pressure due to its' small diameter, or flawed design, then you can simply get your hands on an aftermarket PCV valve, or run two stock PCV valves off of the same valve cover and tee them together...

 

Thats the same thing as used on a small aircompressor and they do work.
you can buy them cheaper at a rual king or any r edneck type of super store... (really r-ed neck is censored???)

I like the ones with the lower drain. I'm going to hook it up soo it will drain automaticly in to the fuelpump blockoff plate area when motor isn't running.
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/catego...?catcode=18549

 

was just checking my factory PCV valve which isn't all that old. If I understand it function correctly under normal conditions it flow from the drivers valve cover into the lower intake. Then when the vacuum decrease the PCV valve closes so the the flow wont reverse?? My PVC has some oil in it and I was able to blow air through it in both directions. It didn't making a rattling noise when shaking it. My thinking is after a WOT pull and getting out of the throttle my engine pulls air back into the engine. That is somewhat verified by watching my WB AFR gauge going 18+ after a wot pull and I get out of the throttle 100%. So would this air being pulled into the engine after a wot pull be pressurizing the crank case if the PCV check valve isn't closing correctly??

 

I haven't had any noticed problems at all. but now that I've read this though, I'm gonna check it all out today and make sure.

 

Wrong
When you go WOT you have little engine vac so the PCV system is not doing anything.
The increased windage from hi revs and extra displacement ( 383ci below pistons instead of 350 ) pressurizes the crankcase and has nowhere to go but back out the pass side cover if it can , otherwise it will find a hole ( leak ) somewhere else

As soon as you back off ( assuming PCV valve functioning correctly ) high vac sucks the fumes out of crankcase into intake as designed.
You can only get airflow INTO the engine if you have vac from the valve working ; if it is not working then you have NO airflow in therefore NO pressure build up as you explain

 

Back to front

"The valve is simple, but actually performs a complicated control function.
At idle, the intake manifold vacuum is near maximum.
It is at this time the least amount of blow by is actually occurring, so the PCV valve provides the largest amount of (but not complete) restriction.

As engine load increases, vacuum on the valve decreases proportionally and blow by increases proportionally. With a lower level of vacuum, the spring returns the cone to the "open" position to allow more air flow.

At full throttle, vacuum is much reduced, down to between 1.5 and 3" Hg.
At this point the PCV valve is nearly useless, and most combustion gases escape via the "breather tube" where they are then drawn in to the engine's intake manifold anyway".

Via the hose to TB from the pass side cover on a TPI