jackballs529

Guys - Just swapped a Superram out for a Miniram and the tried starting my car but it won't start. I have the distributor in the correct position, Looks like the fuel pressure came up to about 40 and rose a little when trying to start. Any advice?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Make sure distributor is in right and make sure intake is sealing well. No leaks. All sensors and wiring are together? Double check basics.

gp90gta

iTrader: (1)

Are the injectors firing?, is the est wire connected?, did you only change the manifold? is there a vacuum leak?

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Is it a different throttle body or has the blade's idle position been lowered? Could the distributor be seated all the way but the cap is turned enough to retard the timing too much? Coil wire's connection has not come loose? Do you have access to data logging equipment that can verify all of the sensors are displaying sane readings? Are all of the grounds at the back of the heads still tightly connected?

jackballs529

I didn't change anything except the intake. I checked that all sensors and vacuum are plugged in. I did get a couple of back fires so I know there is spark. I talked to my brother who is better that cars with cars than me and he said to play with the distributor a little and see if it fires. He said if I'm off a tooth I would need to fnd top dead center which is whatI'm afraid of (never done it). He would help me with that if need be. I'll let you guys know what happens. Thanks.

3rd gen Will

iTrader: (8)

If you are getting backfires you are likely 180* out. (you are firing at the top of the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke) Pull you cap and pull the distributor up just enough for the gear to clear the cam. Turn the rotor 180* and drop it back in and she will fire up. Don't forget to disconnect the EST and reset you base timing.

OH and most importantly....Enjoy watching that tach fly up to 6000+ RPM and not feeling the slightest drop off in HP. You will miss some of that low end torque though.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Yeah you probably arent close on timing. Will need to move dizzy around, could be tooth off. You may need to just remove plug from cyl 1 and place finger or paper towel plug over hole and have someone bump starter over til you feel pressure or paper blows out. That should get you near enough tdc to get distributor in right and get it fired.

3rd gen Will

iTrader: (8)

I will all but guarantee you are 180* out. If not to get the distributor lined back up. You can also rotate the engine until the timing mark lines up with 0 on the timing tab. That means Cyl #1 is at TDC. The pull up the distributor so you can rotate the rotor and put the dist in with the rotor aiming towards the #1 cyl, if it doesn't start (and backfires) you are 180* out (firing on the exhaust stroke) so just turn the rotor facing the opposite direction (Cyl #6) and it will fire.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I'll agree with that. You can check TDC (by yourself) by removing the drivers side valve cover and (rotating the balancer) when 0* starts to come around watch the #1 rockers. Should see the intake open close and when both rockers are closed it would be TDC.

3rd gen Will

iTrader: (8)

Did ya get it going?

jackballs529

Ya, I was 180 degrees backwards, I forgot to mark the rotor, just marked the cap and disty. All is good, just chasing another bug. The car falls on its face at the top of 1st gear, suspecting a bad TPS sensor. Fighting my way to get my ALD1 cable from Moates to play nice with TunerProRT. I did it years ago with success but it seems I forgot alot of my knowledge. Thanks for the concern though, all easy projects turn into long drawn out headaches, thats just the way it goes with cars. I need an easier and cheaper hobby.

3rd gen Will

iTrader: (8)

Blasphemy! Cars are always easy and cheap! Glad you got it driving again!

Did you tune for the MR? The tuning file I got from PCMforless was quite different from my TPI tune as far as MAP vs RPM. What RPM are you shifting at? What cam, you running that LPE 219? Seems like it should make decent power up top...it was designed for LT1 as well as TPI cars right?

FWIW I am running the LT4 hot cam, it pulls to 6200 swiftly!

jackballs529

I had a custom chipped burned years ago for my Superram setup but have since learned to tweak things myself in TunerPro. I have a MAF car so I tune completely different than you do. I haven't got to the point were I'm going to play with tuning yet, still working out a couple of bugs. My biggest issue is that my car runs a choppy at idle and the cam shouldn't run radicle. Not sure if its a fuel mixture thing or mechanical. As for the LPE219 cam, I am still running that, it was designed to match the Superram setup but the TPIS guys said the specs were good for the MR as well.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Intake will change engine dynamics. Probably need to rework the tune. Idle area will need some help. Could be a distribution issue with the short runners or some minor reversion issues, so double check fuel and play with timing. Mini should require more fuel above 5500 than your old superam but verify tune in its current state before making changes obviously. Wideband helps, else try reading narrow band o2 and target 900 mv

3rd gen Will

iTrader: (8)

When I started my car before the tune was on it ran pretty crappy! Idle was really rough and car wasn't driveable. I tried to drive it up and down the street for a "shake down" and I could barely drive it. Barring any mechanical issues causing additional problems, I bet your tune is in dire need of tweaking.