Laq or Clear Coat...Which you like best?
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From: Fyffe/Rainsville, Alabama
Car: 1986 IROC-Z, 1990 RS
Engine: 383 Stroker TPI, 350 About To Go In
Transmission: 700R4 W/ Shift Kit And Stall, 700R4 W/ Shift Kit
Laq or Clear Coat...Which you like best?
Which one would u do over sparkle midnight blue?
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From: Clark, NJ, exit 135
Car: 1984 Camaro Z28
Engine: 350 CID
Transmission: Beefed up 700R4
sparkle midnight blue? if youre talking about some kind of metallic, the paint system is usually basecoat/clearcoat. im not sure on what the paint is made from, but usually nowadays i think its acrylic and urethane type things...
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From: Quebec
Car: 94 Firebird
Engine: 3.4L
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the best is basecoat/clearcoat of course... but if it is a solid color you can go with urethane, really it gives almost as good a finish as bc/cc for much cheaper... enamel is really the low quality, cheapest way to go... so really it depends on your tastes, budget and how good you want your car to look
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
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Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
lacquer is very brittle and SUCKS on a daily driver. It's also illegal to buy in some of the tree hugging states (Massachusetts comes to mind). Urethane shines as good as lacquer and is extremely durable. Lacquer is almost completely obsolete.
basecoat/clearcoat is the way to go if you ask me, and yeah the single stages such as PPG's OMNI and ICI ValuPro do look good if it is a solid color like black...my polytech teacher painted his car with that and it looks good.
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From: Colonial Heights, VA
Car: 85 Iroc-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
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yes, if you're going with a metallic color, i wouldn't go with single-stage. if you have to wetsand, it won't look right after. i'm dealing with that issue right now on my car......wishing i would've gone with base/clear.
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Originally posted by 85IrocNOH
yes, if you're going with a metallic color, i wouldn't go with single-stage. if you have to wetsand, it won't look right after. i'm dealing with that issue right now on my car......wishing i would've gone with base/clear.
yes, if you're going with a metallic color, i wouldn't go with single-stage. if you have to wetsand, it won't look right after. i'm dealing with that issue right now on my car......wishing i would've gone with base/clear.
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From: Centerville, Ohio
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Doing it that way, you might run into bonding issues. It may look good for a while, week, month, years, but in time the clear may start to peel in sheets or haze. It's mostly compatability issues. Thats why paints are disgned the way they are as far as 1, 2 and 3 stage paints.
Of the 2 painters I know, they will use a bc/cc urethane paint like Deltron, Rubber Seal or HoK, always. And they do tons of show cars that are flawless.
But the type of paint makes no difference if the body prep isn't done right. Thats one place you never want to skimp. It's almost more important than the paint itself.
Of the 2 painters I know, they will use a bc/cc urethane paint like Deltron, Rubber Seal or HoK, always. And they do tons of show cars that are flawless.
But the type of paint makes no difference if the body prep isn't done right. Thats one place you never want to skimp. It's almost more important than the paint itself.
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Originally posted by LT1guy
Why not clear over the single stage urethane? Thats how most showcar finishes are done today. They paint the car with single stage (sloid colors usually), colorsand, then clear and sand/buff. It gives a very durable finish with the gloss and depth of lacquer. Tahts what I'm doing on my 85 TA (black).
Why not clear over the single stage urethane? Thats how most showcar finishes are done today. They paint the car with single stage (sloid colors usually), colorsand, then clear and sand/buff. It gives a very durable finish with the gloss and depth of lacquer. Tahts what I'm doing on my 85 TA (black).
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