Hi all,
Doing a little bodywork and need to know after taking off the paint/primer with Aircraft Remover stripper do I need to prep/etch the bare metal? If so any suggestion on products would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

du pont use to make "bare metal conditioner" or something like that. ask around at stores that sell paint supplies.

------------------
-=ICON MOTORSPORTS=-
1st & 3rd

 

I have used etching primer, and it works great. you can also use a two part epoxy primer that works just as good - but is a little more pricy. As far as name brands - there is a ton of them that will work, so I suggest talking to your local body shops(if they'll talk about it) or local paint shop.
Jerry

 

I never used one when I primed; the primer stuck to it just fine. Of course, I couldn't find etching primer! Anyway, the Eastwood Company sells some, http://www.eastwoodcompany.com


------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

Thanks for the info guys. I want to do everything I can to keep the rust away.

------------------
85 IROC,5.0 TPI,T-Tops,fully loaded,black with red Lear-Siegler "Camaro" interior,Decal Delete,91 Bose stereo,Stage 2 Fastchip,AFPR,TB Airfoil,K&Ns,March pulleys,Alum. Driveshaft,92 police version 700r4

"The Devil drives a Camaro"

 

Always use metal prep after stripping. I usually use only PPG products. Make sure that you wear latex gloves, just like the stripper, the metal prep burns!! Make sure that before using the metal prep you strip all the paint and old primer. Then before you prime, make sure that you wash all of the metal prep off with some warm water and a utility pad like a scotch brite pad.

Remember, it's all in the preperation!

------------------
'82 Firebird, dead stock, 9 bolt disc rear, over 200,000 miles and still going strong, more to come...

 

Stinger, maybe you can help me with this- I've always had a problem with "rinsing the metal off with water". Won't that start the rusting process??


------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

Dry it quick and use a clean towel every time. I just went to Home Depot and bought a bag of 50 shop rags, only did about 5 passes with each (i folded it for maximum absorption) then went over the whole thing with a clean rag. As long as you get it quick and dry it good it won't have time to rust. Just take it one section at a time and it should go fine.

 

Yeah, definately keep it as dry as possible as soon as you can, I first "blow-dry" with a compressor, then use rags. Also, the best bet is to prime the piece that you're going to paint as soon as it's dry. If you get a little surface rust, use some pre-cleaner or I use laquer thinner. It works wonders!!

------------------
'82 Firebird, dead stock, 9 bolt disc rear, over 200,000 miles and still going strong, more to come...

 

.

[This message has been edited by Jza (edited November 21, 2001).]

 

Not saying it won't, just prime it as soon as it's dry.

 

Cool! Hey thanks a lot for the info guys! Maybe next time I do bodywork I'll try using paint stripper instead of inhaling all that sanding dust, now that I know I can rinse the metal down with water.

Thanks again!


------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!