Brisk

iTrader: (25)

Hey guys.. I'm considering doing the tb bypass.. post your pics on the various ways you've done it.. I'd like to get a clean/uncluttered look.

Any other ideas for cleaning up the engine bay?? I've already remvoed the air tubes, I've got a air pump delete pulley and madeforyou wire looms ordered from Summit... and I want to order some underdrive pulleys for the crank, waterpump, and alternator. whats next?

Check my attached images. In the first pic, can I completely remove this valve with three coolant lines and a vacuum line? If so, what is the best way to do this?

In the second pic, can anything be done with these vacuum lines that snake behind the alternator?

I'd like to make or buy a cold air kit and remove the stock dual ram air style.. how have you guys done this? Post some pics!

Anything else?

Post your pics!

Firebat

iTrader: (7)

4th gen window washer tank and 4th gen anti-freeze overflow tank

PROCHARGED

Hello,this is what I did.Cut the hard vacuum line to the coolant housing and put a vacuum line cap on it.I tucked inside the wire harness.Ran 5/8 hose from the firewall to the lower intake nipple.As far as the nipple on the frame rail I capped it off with a 3/4 coolant blockoff.So far no problems with it and no leaks.

As far as the throttle body coolant track goes I just cut the nipples off and plugged them with grey silicon.

Cold air intake track I just got the chome universal 3 inch pipe for import cars from Autozone.I had to relocate the fuel vaper canister over some to have room for the air filter.

GTA_340

hey, first post here>>>
if you live in a state that doesnt test for emmissions you will be able to get rid of about half the crap under the hood. i did it. remove your Air system that runs from your exhaust manifold to your cat plug the holes in the manifold with 1/4" flare plugs and get rid of your air pump buy a delete pully and if your airconditioning doesnt work rip out the compressor and hoses get some clips for your spark plug wires and to make things look really sweet polish your intake plenum and runners there is an article on how to do that in the Tech pages. Some will tell you that removing the electronics and AIR will throw a code but so far so good for me i've had it off my car for almost a year now. In weight alone you will have removed about 70lbs of brackets and misc. junk.

maroon88iroc

iTrader: (7)

heres mine. i have chrome valve covers centerbolt wire looms, they are very nice i got them from mw66nova. cut to fit wires all tucked away. throttle body plate painted. next will be a billet overflow tube to get rid of the bottle and probably a custom washer fluid bottle. then i would like to pull the intake and all and powter coat the base and the runners and plenum. i think i want to do the base red the runners black and the plenum 2-tone red and black. but i think mine is pretty clean i would like to just pull everydamn thing out and detail everthing and paint everything and then reassemble it but this is my daily driver...

MNformula350

iTrader: (2)

I have removed all my A/C, Emissions equipment, Charcoal Canister, Heater Control valve (no a/c = didn't need it anymore) and the washer fluid and coolant overflow bottles. I replaced the bottels with a combo unit out of a 91 Explorer that is the size of a group 75 battery. I hate engine clutter When I replace the battery with an optima this year (if I ever get the car out of storage) I am moving it to the trunk.



Crappy pic of the Overflow, washer fluid assembly mounted behind the drivers side headlight.

sicc87

tune ups must be a breeze.. looks 100x better than a cluttered stock engine bay good stuff..

AJ89Irocz

MNformula350, very clean set-up man, i love the combo idea out of the Ford, id like to try something like that myself, the battery relocation will deffinatly set it over the top, in a good way, sweet man.

Brisk

iTrader: (25)

thanks for the tips, I love the explorer bottle.. cleans up soo much!

CrazyHawaiian

I recently did some work on the engine in my IROC-Z and along the way I kind of cleaned it up. First thing I did was completely sand down the base, runners, and plennum of the TPI Intake, and then painted it (aluminum). Then I did the same with the stock valve covers (black) and installed Russel Plug Wire Looms. Then I removed the stock manifolds and installed Edelbrock TES headers w/ the AIR deleted, then completely removed all the AIR lines and installed the delete pulley. Then I went to town on coolant routing, did the Throttle Body coolant bypass, completely removed all the lines to the heater core (since I plan to remove the heater core), really cleaned up the pass side of the engine bay. I kept the A/C because I love A/C, so I just really cleaned up all the A/C components. Then I removed the coolant overflow and washer fluid bottles, went to town on them with Simple Green, really cleaned em up. Then I also painted those (black). All thats left is to paint the engine bay itself and then individually remove, clean, and paint all the components of the serp belt system (power steering pump, A/C compressor, water pump, etc, etc). Its supprising how much of a difference some time and paint can make.

MNformula350

iTrader: (2)

Actually with the headers, the rear 2 plugs on the passenger side still need to be done from underneath the car.

Thanks for the compliments guys, it makes all the work and such worth it.

My next plan is to do away with the bracket on the passenger side of the engine, since all it is there for is the tensioner, I have a few ideas on how to be able to keep the serp belt, but ditch the bracket and tensioner.

Brisk

iTrader: (25)

so can you post some pics of exactly how you did that? thanks!

CrazyHawaiian

Yeah I can take some pictures when I get home. But to explain, if you look at the TPI base from the front of the car you'll see the coolant line that goes from the front of the Intake base right by the CTS sensor up into the underside of the Throttle Body (it'll be like a short 90 bend line). After you've located that line, go look on the pass side of the Throttle Body, follow the coolant line out and see where it goes (should be near the IAC). From the factory its supposed to goto the heater core diverter (little black platic box looking thing sitting above the pass side exhaust manifold), but on my car the previous owner had already bypassed that and the coolant line went straight from the pass side of the Throttle Body to the radiator. So when you do the bypass you're gonna be routing the line directly from the Intake base by the CTS sensor to wherever you want it to go, either the heater core diverter, or like I did, straight to the radiator. The tricky thing about this mod is the hoses on both ends are different sizes, and you need a 90 degree bend right by the Intake base to clearance the serp belts and stuff. So what you gotta do is remove all the hoses and take em to your favorite parts store and use them as sizing templates to find new hoses. You'll need one hose with a 90 degree bend (correct size for Intake base coolant port), then a stepdown so the smaller hose interfaces with the bigger hose, then finally you'll need the bigger hose that will goto either the heater core diverter, or the radiator). Cost me like $13 for everything. When I get pics I'll post em.