Yesterday I repaired my headlight motors which was a real pain in the a$$ because 3 of the screws busted on me. While I was at it I did an H4 conversion with a 7x6 Projector housing. The housings fit well but I did have to modify them there were tabs on the back of them that kept them from going in all the way so I had to cut them off.

The back top part of the housing gets really hot and the back part is made of some kind of thick plastic so Im hoping it doesnt melt. The stock wiring seems to be holding up just fine to the new bulbs the wiring does not get hot at all. I will be putting in HID's in the near future. Pictures are below. I will get night shots later on tonight. Overall I think they look great. Let me know what you think.

Day shots:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72...4/100_0582.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72...4/100_0586.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72...4/100_0574.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72...4/100_0575.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72...4/100_0576.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72...4/100_0579.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72...4/100_0580.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72...4/100_0581.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72...4/100_0584.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72...4/100_0585.jpg

 

Those look sharp, but you definately need to get the APC harness for those or you'll melt down the wiring or the headlight switch or both.

 

They do look nice. I thought that the harness kit was an upgrade to use h4 style bulbs in a quad headlight system. I have converted my old school S-10 to h4's about 5 years ago, and have never had a problem with wiring, or switches. I think that the wiring is fine on single headlight systems.

 

He's right. The H4 bulbs put out much more power compared to the stockers. Your harness plugs may not melt right away, but they will with time. If you let it go long enough, they will actually melt to the light bulb itself, so you can't even pull the connector off anymore.

This is what you need right here: http://www.racingdimension.com/index...ProdID=57&HS=1

 

Maybe the reason my wiring on my S-10 has made it so long is because I did not install super high watt bulbs. I used a silverstar bulb from Checkers. Good to know if I were to ever step up to a better bulb... Thanks

 

I let the lights sit on for awhile and I checked the wiring and the connector and neither of them were hot. The only place that gets hot is on the actual housing.

 

Those plugs won't really make a difference.

What he needs is this: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku It hooks directly to the battery with heavier gauge wiring and uses relays triggered by the stock wiring to run the lights straight off the battery. You can get the harness even cheaper than that on eBay if there's any one there, I got the 4 light version for my car for $17 shipped. From what I gathered before I converted mine over the headlight switch is at the most risk for meltdown but there are a lot of wires the power goes through on the stock setup to get from the battery to the headlights so why risk it when you could prevent it for ~$30?

 

The plugs alone worked great on my daily driven Camaro for the 6 months I had them. I will agree that for the extra $10 compared to just the Nokya plugs alone, you really can't go wrong with doing it the best possible way and getting the entire APC wiring harness.

 

I dont really like that style a whole lot. I put some hella conversions in my transam 6 years ago. With a PIAA orange beam. 80watt low beam and 120watt high. they were awesome. you couldnt tell it was a different housing by just looking at them. it was when i turned them on when you noticed.

btw i never had a problem with the wiring or any of the pigtales for the lights like the above guys have mentioned. if i want to pull them out they come right off.

good luck to you.