Hello All,
I have a little problem, I keep my car under covers and lately I lifted the cover cover to wash my Iroc and noticed that on some places where the cover touches looks like imbedded dirt, i try washing it twice and still no effect, I wanted to know if a Clay Bar will help in getting those dark spots off my car, paint is great for a 20 year old car and don't plan on painting it for a while. If anybody ever had this problem before please help. By the way my Iroc is white.

 

Claybar would be the first thing I would try. After that, if it was still there, you might be able to wetsand it out with some 1200 grit. And use 3m buffing compound to polish it back to smooth, and was the whole car.

Another trick I use sometines is that "Mr. Clean Magic Eraser" it works wonders at getting bird stains out, ect. But it takes off your wax and does scuff the clear a little, be warned. But it is easier than a claybar. I keep one in my carwash bucket and just use it with the water/soap mix and it is great.

 

I have encountered this problem as well on cars that are stored outdoors under a cover. Try the clay bar, it should do the trick.

Also, when you store the car try placing some extra padding (I use large bubble wrap) on the rear hatch glass, this will help keep the cover off of the body/ paint a bit and prevent the dirt from being pressed onto the paint by the cover.

 

Thanks,
I have never used a clay bar on my cars, I have heard that after I clay it will need to be buffed and polished due to the wax being stripped off by the clay bar, and yes my car is outdoors, I most likely take the cover off once I get my windows tinted and invest in a better car cover. Something the wind will not blow off.
Thanks again.

 

If claybar doesn't work I WOULD NOT jump strait to wetsanding with 1200 grit paper especially if you have no experience wetsanding. You could burn through 20 yearold clear coat very easily. You could start with some 3000 grit wet then if that doesn't remove the dirt try 2000 grit if it doesn't come out. I wouldn't really want to go any more agressive than 1500 wet with old factory clear coat.
I detail cars at a body shop so if you have any wetsanding qustions just shoot me a PM.

 

thanks you guys, I went and bought a Maguires kit which included the clay bar and other detailing products. I took the cover before it does more damage and will wash it on Sat. and clay the car, then I will use NUFINISH by 3M and buff it with my dads polishing/buffing machine. I wil try to post some pics when I get it done. thanks again.

 

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I think the clay bar should be enough. I had a bunch of dirt and junk in my paint and the clay bar cleaned it all up no problem

 

Of course, if you can find 3000, 2000, or 1500 grit, then that would be better. Me and my buddies usually use the 1200 because that is the highest we can find. The hardware store usually has up to 1000, then sometimes walmart or home depot will get some 1200. The 1200 works ok, you just need to know how to do it with a light palm. If you wetsand with your fingers, you could leave finger marks. Also, we use the 1200 after spraying the clear in order to get out any orange peel, or runs.

And that 3m compound works miracles after the wetsanding, even on low RPM's. They even have an "extra cutting compound" if you sand a little heavily, and a "swirl mark remover" that is nice if you get swirls while buffing with the compound (usually will happen under sunlight).

But sanding should always be a last resort (unless it is new paint you just sprayed) because it does remove a layer of clear.

 

Finally clayed my car and I got to say that Meguires paint saving system works like advertised, thanks to all for you help. I wax my car, looks good for the time being but will soon buff it with the 3M compound.