I just finished wet sanding my car using 1000 grit paper. I can see exactly where the paper went too. I got all these scratches and they arent coming out when I buff and polish it. Am I forgetting tyo do something or did I probably ruin my paint. i had it painted 1 month ago w 2 coats base and 3 coats clear?

HELP PLEASE

 

Move up to a higher grit. 1500 followed by 2000, don't push too hard. make sure the paper and car are wet at all times... keep plently of water on it. Then buff again. You did do this to only one section right? and not the whole car right away.

 

You HAVE to use a Heavy Cut Cleaner on the dull paint with a foam pad and a power buffer. That is the ONLY way to bring it back. Then you have to use Swirl remover, then show car polish, then yellow wax for protection. This is all from the professional line from Meguiar's.

 

I was just wondering if anyone knew how much a shop would charge to do this???

 

I don't know what the shops will charge ya... I'd imagine anywhere from 300-500$, probably at least 5 hours of labor... Next time.. start with 1000 grit, and work up to 2000 or even 00 or 000 or even 0000 Brillo Pads. BUT! When you do do it, let the equipment do the work! Not your arm! I just made the same mistake on a piece of scrap body panel I had laying around... Trying to perfect my system for when I wetsand my car in the spring... I started with fine wet/dry paper, but I pushed to hard, and I have a bunch of swirls...

To solve this problem, do what some people told me to do today (on this board, look around on this page for a post by me called "wetsanded, polished with Stratch-X, still left something to be desired")

Basically, use a bunch of hand glaze or use Zaino Z5 swirl remover. A guy at the automotive store tonight told me to use car wax with corn starch or baby power in it (in paste form) and work it in real light, but so far thats not workin for me.

Try a bunch of stuff, see what works (as long as it's not like scouring powder or anything)... I mean, I doubt it's going to do any -more- damage than what's already there (if you can even call it damage)...

Good luck!

 

ok guys.. here is the deal.

if your cars paint is dry, and if you got it painted before fall then its dry.

anyways. when i wetsand, which is everyday, i use 1200-2000 but i dont go in steps. if its peely then i use 1200 if not then i use 2000 always use the finer grit, its easier to buff since the scratches arent as deep.

anyways dont using scratch remover for anything. that just covers the scratches. its a glaze.
instead get RUBBING COMPOUND from 3M and a Buffer.
then take your time and buff it out. then glaze over that when your done.

how long has the car been sitting with the paint openned up, or wetsanded. if it has been more than 10 hrs you will need to scuff it again because it will basically be harder than a rock to buff, well its already totally dry so its going to be that hard anyways.

heres the deal you want to wetsand and buff cars paint withing the first three days of its painted. if its baked, and if not you have about a week in the sun, or two in the shade then its starts to cure and the more it cures the more it sucks to buff.

anyways. you wetsanded your whole car right?
well take it to a shop, and ask to talk to the detailer or painter see what he says it would take to bring the finish back.

and who painted your car? please tell me it wasnt and EARL SCHEIB or MACCO.

and good luck man. ill be checking back so if you have any questions i can answer them for you. and if you need #s for materials like rubbing compound and stuff i can get them for you.

 

Yes i did the whole car, but i dont think i sanded too much off of it (I say this because there are still tons of shiny spots) I got it painted by a freind of a freind. The car looked decent except there was a lot of orange peel and I decided to take matters into my own hands and wet sand. I called the body shop where my company gets all of their work done and one of the guys up there said he would wetsand and buff it for $150. I told him what was wrong over the phone and he said it probably wasm't a lost cause. I think I will just leave this to the professionals. I will however stand over his shoulder to learn how he did it.

Do you think that is a good price for having it done?



Brandon
U.S. Army national Guard 769th Engineers (2LT. in may)

 

I really wouldnt ever go below 1500 grit on a car's paint unless it is badly damaged and you are just trying to save it out of desperation. i think 1000 is way too rough. Might as well pick up a rock and see if that does the job next time.

 

D@mn dude, cut him some slack... he's learning, I wouldn't be surprised if I did the same thing...

 

That local parts store thing is hil-harious. My friend has a Trans-am and he has to say 350 evertime he needs something. And they are like, we promise you you don't have a 350 in that thing. And he is like you wanna race, I'll show you it is a 350. It gets annoying these incompatent freaks.

 

ok man well $150 to wetsand and buff isnt too bad. just make sure he does a complete detail afterwards. for example. make sure its clean everywhere when you get it back, and vacuum the inside and put some interior cleaner on the dash and stuff.. because when you buff a car dust and everything gets everywhere and compound gets in all the cracks. well anyways if he knows what he is doing then it will look good. and just have an open mind when he is doing his stuff. good luck man and have fun.

and where are you at ROTC at? i am in ROTC at ISU Iowa State.
but my unit is being deployed next month to a post somewhere. not sure but when i find out ill let everyone know.

see ya SIR.

 

You stupid liar! I tried a rock and it scratched all my paint!!!