BizJetTech

iTrader: (3)

I decided to remove my AIR pump (which was shot) and all associated plumbing and also remove the heater control valve and all associated hoses along with bypassing the heater core (that I dont need here in Florida).
The top picture is the BEFORE picture (with air pump and heater valve installed).............the bottom pics are AFTER removal.......IMO, it makes for a much cleaner looking engine compartment and now I dont need to worry
about a 28 year old heater core leaking all over my pristine original carpet.

DynoDave43

iTrader: (11)

So there really IS a passenger side valve cover. I'll be damned.

BizJetTech

iTrader: (3)

Exactly !!

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

So what are going to do with all the parts removed? I may have a need for all of it if you decide to toss it.

BizJetTech

iTrader: (3)

Bob88GTA - The air pump was shot so it went in the trash - the vanes came unglued and it was making a terrible noise (hence, the reason for removal).
I have all the other stuff in the pic but one of the stainless manifolds has a small crack from bending the line out of the way
during removal (but I'm sure it would be an easy weld repair) - I'm never going to use this stuff again and it just takes up space
on the shelf.....are you interested in any of it? (see pic of parts in this thread)

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

Yes, I would be. I sorta got a "project" that I've been working on and will need all those parts to put it back to "original". I can get a replacement pump when the time comes.

BizJetTech

iTrader: (3)

Bob88GTA - if you want to pay the shipping, I will put everything that is re-usable into a box and send it to you.
FYI - Napa auto parts sells the air pump, it's not cheap ($180) or you can probably get one off a parts car here on the forum.
PM me your address and I will get the shipping cost and let you know....

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

Sounds good. PM'd you

Aviator857

I'm impressed you got the AIR lines out of the manifold. I tried once with no luck as the check valve (I think that's what its called) cracked off. I ran it with exhaust wrap holding that check valve on for years... the only bailing wire I've ever actually put on a car. Are you still running a cat, I hear a lot of the factory ones don't work so well with out the AIR but have no actual experience.

BizJetTech

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, I guess I got lucky, AIR line removal was no trouble at all - I got the correct reverse flare plugs for the holes in the manifolds and they went right on, no problems.
For the time being I am still running the cat, but it's coming off very soon. Car is currently running fine with the cat installed....

WildCard600

What caps did you use on the heater core lines ? I'm going to bypass my heater core as well, but can't seem to find caps to fit.

Thanks.

*EDIT* Nevermind, was using the wrong search terms.

dmccain

iTrader: (2)

Started to remove my air pump and stripped the head on the second bolt. I think the 3rd bolt stripped on my air tube so I ran them back up. My 350 will have Hooker headers and I will be able get rid of some of that garbage when it goes in later in the Summer i hope. That sure is a SWEET engine bay man it looks so much better.

BizJetTech

iTrader: (3)

I got them from Napa - one 5/8" and one 3/4" nipple is what you need.....

BizJetTech

iTrader: (3)

Thanks !! - Bummer about your bolts, you definitely need to use a flare nut wrench when attempting to remove the AIR lines
from the manifolds, thats the only way you will get them loose.

WildCard600

Thanks. I found the same ones after I realized my brain fart and starting using the correct terms.

1989karr

What size flare nut wrench did you use?

BizJetTech

iTrader: (3)

You will need a 9/16" flare nut wrench. Also, a 9/16" flare nut crows foot will help for the farthest rear fittings
that are up on the top of the manifolds

1989karr

Awesome! Thank you!!!