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Here is my car as it sits currently.
It is an incredible amount of fun to enjoy on the street, at car shows, at the drag-strip, at the auto-cross and on long drives.
I have a lot to type, but hopefully it is not too painfully long for people to read.
I am the second owner of this car and have had it since February of 2000 (I bought it when I was 15 years old with the $3,500 of my own money which I had saved up from several years of cutting my neighbors lawns and yardwork). It was totally, completely stock then... had peeling clear coat paint, the original rear window louvers, straight body panels, original IROC wheels etc.. it was a dream come true without a doubt!! I grew up with family who were gearheads and as a kid, the 3rd gen bodystyle just appealed to me. I knew I had to have one one day, and I looked at a handful before finding this car, and I knew right away "this was the one"...and then the alternator froze on the voyage to my parents house and kicked the belt off and we had to limp it home.. just after buying it 30 mins earlier... ! My dad and I fixed this a week later, no problem, but I still was too young to drive the car so I would just wash it, wax it, fiddle with things week after week, just doing my best to learn mechanics and how things worked. All I wanted to do at that age was work on the car and learn. My father and I sanded down the areas of the body that had horrible clear coat peeling and we painted them red base/clear .. still before I was licensed to drive it.
It was my daily driver from 2002-2007 (high school and most of college). I’m talking pure daily driver, rain, snow, ice, 4 or 5 people piled in it, trips to the jersey shore, joyrides with girls, parking lot parties and burnouts. The car certainly lived a busy and exciting life back then, but I had become more keen on getting it to be more of a good looking and better performing car. So, in 2008, after getting a 1995 YJ Jeep for a Daily Driver I was finally able to dig into the car much more! It has gone through many many upgrades over the past 20 years. The list is very long, and I keep detailed records and files of everything (I have 3 notebooks filled with parts, mods, details). The gigantic file folder of "parts receipts" and their $value sometimes is shocking, but what the heck.. it is my hobby and it makes me happy. I enjoy that I do almost everything that I can do mechanically to the car here in my 2 car garage too with the occasional help from my group of gear-head friends.
- PAINT: “DEEP FLAME RED” SPRAYED IN 2007. GLASSTEK 2.5” FIBERGLASS HOOD, SHAVED DOOR MOLDINGS, REMOVED DRIP RAILS, AND DELETED/FILLED ANTENNA HOLE IN FENDER. HAD THE DOOR-JAMBS AND TRUNK JAMBS PAINTED ALSO. CUSTOM VINYL STRIPES ON HOOD AND LOWER DOORS, DESIGNED AND APPLIED BY MYSELF AND MY FATHER. ABOUT 80% OF THE BODYWORK WAS DONE BY MYSELF, YET THE PRIMER/PAINT/CLEAR WAS SPRAYED BY PEOTTER’S AUTO BODY SHOP (SUMMIT N.J.) APRIL OF 2007
- ENGINE: 406 CUBIC INCH SMALL BLOCK CHEVY. DART S.H.P. BLOCK, CALLIES CRANKSHAFT AND H-BEAM RODS, FORGED MAHLE PISTONS, COMP-CAMS CAMSHAFT, DART PRO-1 215 HEADS, CRANE ROLLER ROCKERS, ARP BOLTS, EDELBROCK VICTOR JR INTAKE MANIFOLD, HOLLEY SNIPER EFI, HOLLEY HYPERSPARK IGNITION
* 531 HORSEPOWER & 513 FT/LBS OF TORQUE ON ENGINE DYNO AT NYES RACING ENGINES FEB.2020
A 200 HP WET-SHOT OF NITROUS WILL BE COMING IN SPRING OF 2021. PISTON RINGS ARE GAPPED FOR NITROUS ALREADY. THE NITROUS BOTTLE IS MOUNTED IN THE CAR AND THE ELECTRONICS ARE PARTIALLY WIRED UP.
- TRANSMISSION: 700-R4 “PRO-STREET ELITE” TRANSMISSION BY “PRO-BUILT AUTOMATICS”. CURRENT TRANSMISSION IS RATED TO 775 HP/750 TORQUE. IT IS PURPOSE BUILT FOR NITROUS. HARDENED AND UPGRADED INTERNALS TO EXCESS. CUSTOM BUILT 3,400 RPM “EDGE RACING” CONVERTER WITH ANTI-BALLOONING PLATES. B&M EXTERNAL TRANS COOLER, B&M MEGASHIFTER. TOGGLE SWITCH TO ACTIVE CONVERTER LOCKUP IN 2ND, 3RD, OR 4TH GEAR
- REAR:MOSER ENGINEERING 12 BOLT CUSTOM BUILT TO ORDER. HUGE 33-SPLINE ALLOY AXLE SHAFTS. DETROIT TRUE-TRAC DIFFERENTIAL. 3.55 RATIO WITH PRO-STREET U.S. GEARS, BOLT-IN AXLES WITH SEALED ROLLER BEARINGS. 1350 CHROME-MOLY YOKE. ½” DIAMETER WHEEL STUDS. HOUSING POWDERCOATED BLACK. ALUMINUM COVER WITH MAIN BEARING SUPPORTS. BUILT TO HOLD UP TO APPROX. 900 HORSEPOWER
- DRIVESHAFT: BUILT TO ORDER FROM DENNY’S DRIVESHAFTS. 3” DIAMETER TUBE, BUILT FOR NITROUS HITS. CHROME-MOLY SLIP YOKE. HIGH SPEED BALANCED. CAPABLE OF HOLDING 1,500 HORSEPOWER
- SUSPENSION: FRONT SUSPENSION: LOWERED 2” VIA LOWERING-SPINDLES. MOOG SPRINGS PAIRED WITH ADJUSTABLE KONI YELLOW STRUTS. ALSO A T.D.S. WONDERBAR AND 34MM SWAYBAR WITH POLYURETHANE BUSHINGS. UMI ADJUSTABLE UPPER STRUT MOUNTS. FULLY REBUILT/REPLACED LOWER STEERING SYSTEM WITH MOOG COMPONENTS, AND REBUILT POWER STEERING BOX. UMI TUBULAR A-ARMS & DELRIN BUSHINGS.
REAR SUSPENSION: LOWERED 1-¼” WITH CUT-DOWN MOOG SPRINGS AND ADJUSTABLE KONI SHOCKS. S&W ADJUSTABLE TORQUE-ARM, UMI ADJUSTABLE PANHARD BAR AND FOUNDERS UPPER PANHARD MOUNT. UMI ADJUSTABLE LOWER CONTROL ARMS. 23MM SWAYBAR & POLY BUSHINGS.
- CHASSIS:FULL S&W RACECARS SUB-FRAME CHASSIS KIT UNDERNEATH. INCLUDEDS TWO MAIN FRAME CONNECTORS, SEVERAL BAR-TO-UNIBODY ATTACHMENT POINTS, DRIVESHAFT SAFETY LOOP, AND A RE-LOCATED TORQUE ARM CONNECTION
- EXHAUST:“DYNO DON’S” 1-3/4” MANDREL BENT, CERAMIC-COATED HEADERS INTO A DYNO-DON’S Y-PIPE. HOOKER 3” EXHAUST WITH AEROCHAMBER SUPER-COMP MUFFLER AND A D.M.H. ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED EXHAUST CUT-OUT. NO CATALYTIC CONVERTER.
- BRAKES:FRONT BRAKE SETUP IS AN ED MILLER MODIFIED C4-HD CORVETTE SETUP USING 13” DRILLED AND SLOTTED RAYBESTOS ROTORS WITH P.B.R. POWDERCOATED CALIPERS. THE REAR BRAKES ARE 12” RAYBESTOS ROTORS AND P.B.R. CALIPERS. WILWOOD IN-LINE ADJUSTABLE PROPORTIONING VALVE. STAINLESS STEEL FLEX LINES AND COPPER-NICKLE HARD LINES BENT AND FLARED BY HAND. SLP LINE-LOCK .
- COOLING:CHAMPION 2 ROW POLISHED ALUMINUM RADIATOR, PROFORM HIGH VOLUME WATER PUMP, MEZIERE 160 DEG THERMOSTAT, ALL NEW HOSES, ALUMINUM OVERFLOW TANK. USING EVANS WATERLESS COOLANT. DUAL ELECTRIC COOLING FANS
- WHEELS:BOZE FORGED. THE BOZE “INJECTED” WHEELS ARE 2-PIECE BILLET ALUMINUM DESIGN FULLY POLISHED AND CLEAR COATED. HIDDEN VALVE-STEMS. FRONT: 18”X8” WITH 5” BACKSPACE AND NITTO-555 245/40/18 TIRES REARS: 18”X10” WITH A 5.85” BACKSPACE AND NITTO-555 285/40/18 TIRES. I ALSO HAVE MICKEY THOMPSON ET STREET S/S DRAG RADIALS FOR THE REAR WHEN THE RACE TRACKS OPEN UP.
-INTERIOR:OFF BRAND “SPORT/BUCKET SEATS” ON SELF-BUILT CUSTOM SLIDERS/BRACKETS. SOUND-DEADENER MATERIAL APPLIED TO FLOOR AND ALL SIDES OF INTERIOR BODY SHELL. A/C AND HEATING SYSTEMS REMOVED. BLACK HEADLINER, BLACK CARPETING, GRANT GT STEERING WHEEL. NEW WEATHERSTRIPPING DOORS AND TRUNK. POWER LOCKS & WINDOWS. ALL GAUGES, LIGHTS, SWITCHES AND HANDLES WORK.
- AUDIO: THE 2,100 WATT SOUND SYSTEM USES A BOSS REV-635 AMPLIFIER POWERING TWO 12” VOLFENHAG DUAL VOICE COIL SUB-WOOFERS. ALSO A PANASONIC CD/MP3 HEADUNIT, PIONEER 6”X9” AND PIONEER 4X6” SPEAKERS INSIDE. USES 4-GAUGE WIRE FOR THE AMP.
- OTHER: POWERMASTER MINI-STARTER, 145 AMP POWERMASTER ALTERNATOR, OPTIMA RED TOP BATTERY RELOCATED TO THE TRUNK, LONGACRE BATTERY ON/OFF SAFETY SWITCH, RED REAR TURN SIGNALS, SMALL SHIFT LIGHT, POLYURETHANE ENGINE MOUNTS. UNDERSIDE OF THE CHASSIS WAS ENTIRELY STRIPPED DOWN TO BARE METAL AND COATED WITH BLACK POR-15
STREET CAR – DRAG RACED – AUTO CROSSED – ROAD COURSE – CAR SHOWS – NEVER TRAILERED
FOR ADDITIONAL INFO AND MUCH OLDER PHOTOS PLEASE VISIT MY WEBSITE IN MY SIGNATURE (although it has not been updated since 2015 sorry).. AND SEARCH MY IROC-ZMAN15 USERNAME HERE ON THIRDGEN.ORG FOR THREADS CREATED BY ME, HIGHLIGHTING SPECIFIC MODS.
This car is an absolute joy to drive. It fires right up, idles great, and stays in the 178-185 temp range. I have taken it on many 4+ hour drives, on voyages in the rain, ran a multitude of AutoCross solo events, competed at the Optima Ultimate Street Car Shootout event twice (in 2016 and 2017 at NJMP), competed at the UMI Performance AutoCross event in 2019 and 2020, and of course some quarter mile action locally in NJ. Despite living in NJ where the weather is less than perfect all year round, but I do drive this car during the winter if the circumstances allow. It goes to car shows and cruise nights most of the year and it has won dozens and dozens of trophies and awards, some at bigger car show events like The Camaro nationals, The GM Nationals in Carlisle, Menards Chevy Show, Super Chevy Shows, and so forth. It was also one of the 10 IROC-Z cars to be invited to the GM Nationals indoor display to celebrate the "30 years of the IROC-Z" back in 2015 along with SEVERAL members on this board as well! It was in Popular HotRodding magazine back in May of 2010 (page 24) and also in Super Chevy Magazine April of 2010 (page 118).
Definitely check out some of my recent threads for more info on the car.
This is the last of my block of posts about the car.
The car has gone a best of 12.07 at 113 mph....(as of 9/17/2020)
***EDIT: took the car to the track 9/18/2020 and ran 6 passes all in the high 11 second zone. my best pass of the night (and to date) was a 11.85 at 115.5 mph. My best 60 foot is a 1.64.
It could be a lot faster if I wanted to only do drag racing. Since I want to continue to drive it on the street, it has a full interior, sound system, and normal car features. It weighs 3,320 pounds without me in it. I could also change the converter and rear gear ratio around to run a quicker 1/4 mile e.t. however that would take away from its street manners and also the car would suffer at the auto-cross events. My goal for this year is to run into the high 11's on motor, and then this winter the nitrous, roll bar, and long tube + 4" exhaust will hopefully get this car into the high 10 second zone. The car is street driven everywhere, I do not own a trailer.
AutoCross in the rain too:
Thanks in advance to those who express kind words and compliments to me and the car. Win or loose.. I am just happy to be a part of this message board and the thirdgen community. Being a 3rd gen f-body enthusiast and an owner is something I can guarantee will last the remainder of my lifetime!
* Also, thank you to QwkTrip for his work in compiling and managing the Car of the Month submissions and handling the voting each month. It has got to be a lot of work.
* Congratulations to all of the other nominees, you all have killer cars that you should be proud of and enjoy as much as you can.
Last edited by IROCZman15; 09-18-2020 at 11:48 PM.
Hello all! It’s a privilege to be nominated for this contest and I wish all the nominees the best of luck!
A little about this car – was a stock 1987 formula 350 with a busted window and It didn’t run. I bought it for $500 and got to work. Drove it around with normal mods (SLP siamesed runners and ported plenum) for a few years before saving up for a 383 HSR. I build the motor with aluminum heads, comp cam, Scat 383 stroker kit and built a 500+hp 700r4 behind it with a 2800 stall. Then I fabbed up my own ford 8.8 using only my own ingenuity and getting it to fit and retain the tq arm mount (I did this before doing 8.8 swaps was cool) and finally got the car on the road after a long winter of mods. 3 months after finishing the car and still in the phase of tuning the combo with the stock PCM the car was stolen and gutted. Car turned up a few days later and the police report said nothing about the engine being stolen or anything as they wouldn’t pop the hood even tho it was sitting very high up front. They cut everything in the engine bay and took everything except the rear and wheels/body. They stole my full sound system, aftermarket projector headlights, band new 383 HSR and trans with driveshaft as well as the full cooling system and hacked up the PCM harness inside to get that as well. Car at the time only had liability insurance so I was out A LOT of money and as you can imagine very depressing. I collected myself in a matter or weeks and decided to put something so large that they would need to cut the car to get the engine out lol. I ended up getting a free 460 BBF and started making a plan to fit this massive motor in the car which was not designed for it. I stroked the motor to a 521cuin monster with aluminum heads, prosystems 1000cfm carb and a built C6. Made my own 2” headers and ran true dual 3” exhaust out the back. After a few years of driving the car and taking it to car shows leaving everyone scratching there heads I was missing the drive-ability and gas mileage of a smaller v8. I eventually tried swapping a 2004R behind the BBF with a billet adapter which helped increase the drive-ability big time. Then I went with a FAST 2.0 EFI to help with the MPG as well. So the itch continued to grow for equal/more power while increasing my MPG and drive-ability. The estimated HP of that combo since it was a documented and tested build was 550hp and 650+tq. It all worked and worked well but at that point I was lucky to manage 10mpg on 93 pump after the mods. Since I was going to get married and start a family I decided to look for a buyer of the trans and motor and eventually got them sold. In the meantime I was looking at the best option for power, drive-ability and MPG. I eventually landed on going cheap with a used 5.3 and a power adder as it would drop in and I would have money left over after selling the motor and trans. I picked up a 150k 5.3 with PCM for $750, and kept the 2004R and the ford 8.8. I left it stock to see how I liked it but picked up a new torqstorm supercharger and slapped it all together with a stock PCM running HP tuners. I ran 12psi which netted me about 600 fwhp according to injector duty cycle logs. The car ran good and I got back the drive-ability and MPG I was looking for. Power demand was there but as you know boost is addictive and eventually I wanted more! I ported the stock heads and threw in a custom blower cam which made more power 650+hp but lowered boost to about 10psi. A year or so passed and I got sick of the “street sweeper noise” that a supercharger makes with the BOV open all the time (basically a compressor air leak) when your not in boost AKA 90% of the time. I looked at boost options and that lead me to a turbo kit from CX racing. I modified the kit to fit a truck accessory motor which at the time I was the first to do. I will skip a few different iterations of that kit but the final result was a CX kit but a custom made 2.25” crossover (CX stock is 3”) and a recirculated WG for stealth. A 3” downpipe and into a 3” electric cutout and into 4” Mufflex/hawks catback with a vibrant straight through muffler. This new setup I run a EBC to control boost on the fly (8, 13 and 15psi settings) and I can cruise quietly while listening to tunes or even myself think! This car is fully custom and all the work is done by myself. I built the motor, transmission, rear end fabrication (I had someone setup the 3.55 gears tho) but other than that I even painted the car and did all the body work myself. The inside rocks a custom speedhut guage panel, double din style apple car play, 5th gen camaro seats, full aftermarket sound style with a hidden bass tube sub and under seat style sub. You will see all the extra things in the pictures but it’s a full tubular suspension, 18x9.5 C6 ZO6 style rims with Z rated tires up front and MT street DRs on the back, Baer brakes up front and new JW speaker LED headlights. I’m missing a ton of stuff in order to keep this wording down. See below for all the details.
I drive this car only on the street and I take it to the food store, to pick my son up from school and I take it back and forth from CT to NJ bi weekly which is 180miles minimum. Just a few weeks ago I drove it to Flemington NJ which netted 300miles round trip roughly and I estimated 19-20mpg and that’s having some boost fun on the way and cruising at 80mph. The car drives very well for the power but the DR’s don’t hold up well above 4k when I’m at maxboost even at 8psi. My speedhut GPS speedo has a ¼ mile feature and best so far was 8psi (traction limited and letting out early) was 11.95 @ 120mph. With the right traction and 13psi this is easily a 10s car if I don’t break an axle lol.
Engine:
5.3 LM7 155k mileage now
Fitech Ultimate LS EFI 3 bar system for engine control
Custom blower cam 218/228 .561/.561 114.5+5.5
Ported stock 862 heads with howards beehive springs and bronze smith brothers bushed rockers
SFI rated flexplate with adapter for 2004R converter
72lb Bosch LS2 style injectors, billet fuel rails, Aeromotive regulator with a walbro 450lph intake pump and -6an PTFE fragola fuel lines
Power Adder
Modified CX racing single turbo kit, Cerakote ceramic coating done by myself
Billet VS racing 78/75 turbo, creakote ceramic coated exhaust housing
Full ceramic coated hotside and 3” dowpipe into a 3” electric cutout with recirculated 60mm WG
Home made 3” FMIC with single injection water meth spraying wiper fluid on a AEM progressive controller
AEM truboost Electonic Boost controller for on the fly boost settings with scramble
Drivetrain
Built by me CK performance 2004R with billet internals for 800hp/tq
Billet 10” 2400 stall converter with extra wide lockup disk
B&M megashifter In stock console
3” Denny’s nitrous ready Moly driveshaft with 1350 joints and spicer yoke
DIY ford 8.8 crown vic rear, 28 spline stock trac lock with SVO carbon fiber clutch upgrade, stock 28 spline ford axles, ARP cap studs, ford 3.55 gears, moster support girdle, customer bolt on Tq arm mount and brackets from my original 9 bolt.
Suspension
UMI lower front tubular control arms
Race craft moly Kmember with stock spring perch location
Koni yellow front struts
Viking double adjustable rear shocks
TDS wonder bar
Poly bushings everywhere with Moog upgraded steering components and UMI solid tie rod adjusters
Jegster shorty adjustable tunnel mount tq arm
Founders performance rear LCAs and PHB
Home made front Weight jacks with cut 850lb true coil springs
Home made rear weight jacks with cut 175lb true coil springs
Home made through floow SFC and perimeter SFC
Hotpart Caster Camber plates
Custom 3pt strut tower brace with rod ends
Brakes
BAER 13” black label front brakes on modified stock spindles, hawks ceramic pads
Stock Master cylinder with custom brake lines and adjustable rear prop valve
Custom Hydroboost brake setup
Rear stock ford 8.8 11.5” vented and drilled rotors, ceramic pads on new stock style calipers
All new Copper nick and stainless brake lines throughout
Cooling
AFCO racing 31x19 aluminum 2 core rad (no trans cooler)
Derale shroud and SPAL fan combo
Flexalite variable speed fan controller
Ford super duty 27x17 transmission cooler (trans nets 120-140* operation temps in summer beating on it)
Flowkooler HV water pump
Mr gasket high flow 160 Tstat
Body
Formula shell, aftermarket TA fenders, stock donor TA GFC
Donor Z28 high rise spoiler
85-90 TA grid tail lights with custom wiring for full LED braking and outside turn signal indication
Headlights are new rebuilt donor headlights, full upgraded brass gear motors, JW speaker 8900 series LED 5x7s
Full LED front turns, rear lights, custom reverse light bar and SAE DOT fog light cubes in stock location
Wheels
OE wheels 18x9.5 C6 Z06 rims with 4th gen spacing
1.25 inch billet front spacers, .5” rear slip on spacers
Sumimoto HRTZ II front 275/40r18 tires
Mickey Thompson ET Street Drag radials 275/45r18 rear
Interior
Custom mounted 5th gen powered camaro seats
4th gen seatbelts
Camaro OE Plastic headliner wrapped in new black headliner cloth by me and sail panels
Stock console with megashifter
Radio cover panel with double Din Sony headunit with Apple car play and reverse camera
Full aftermarket sound system with hidden bass tube in trunk and underseat sub woofer
Custom gauge panel/layout with speedhut evolution 2 gauges. GPS speedo and integrated shift lights in tach, glowshift dual IAT temp gauge pre and post intercooler, Innovate PSB1 fail safe WB02/boost gauge with OLED display, AEM truboost EBC in pillar
New Black Newark auto full carpet
HP Output – 93 pump and wiper fluid meth injection
Not dyno numbers but fuel usage is very accurate to depict FWHP
8psi nets about 600-650fwhp
13psi nets 725ish fwhp
15psi nets 750+ fwhp and maxes out my 72lb injectors at 95+% duty
Last edited by customblackbird; 09-17-2020 at 12:19 PM.
Hi, here is my 1984. This car was originally bought by my mother brand new in 1984. The car was a sport coupe with the 2.8. She bought it with the 5 speed also. my mother drove it until about 1989 when she gave it to me. I drove the car until 1992 and then got into trucks. The car then sat in the garage under a cover until 2017 when I finally had the chance to do what I always wanted to do with it. I had the car painted with a 2017 Corvette color called "Long beach Red". That took a few months to be done and then I had a 377 SBC put in it. I also did the following. 377 SBC 640 hp Tremec 5 spd. Quick fuel 850 SQ carb Doug Thorley ceramic coated long tube headers 4 inch Flowmaster exhaust with electric cutout. MSD 6AL ignition Victor jr. intake
Strange engineering 12 bolt rear, 4.56 gears. Weld Racing wheels Complete Spohn suspension Welded frame connectors All original interior that I recovered myself.
Then one day I heard a different noise like the valves needed to be adjusted because it was a solid roller. Turns out that one of the rockers broke apart and the needle bearings went down through the motor and ruined a few things. So I decided to sell that motor, it was a little too much for me with the engine skills that I have. I just sold the block and the heads. I bought a brand new 406 with 512 horsepower and put all of my parts from the other motor on it. So now I have a brand new engine with a little less power but I am able to work on this one a little easier. Maybe I can get my mother to drive it now.
Also, thank you to QwkTrip for his work in compiling and managing the Car of the Month submissions and handling the voting each month. It has got to be a lot of work.
Thank you, my friend. It's actually fairly easy after a few months practice. Believe me, you guys doing the COTM write ups are carrying most the work load! (but I hope it's fun)
I just went to the track last night with the goal of finally cracking into the 11 second zone. First pass was an 11.855 at 115.57 mph !!
that was rewarding!
Followed by an 11.96, 11.90, 11.94, 11.94, and an 11.95
Loaded up the car with all my tools, and street drove it home at midnight.
Was thrilled to run ALL 6 passes in the 11 second zone, but need to work on some shifting and launch. Hopefully by the years end an 11.7x will be attained!
I am going to type up my detailed account of last night in about half an hour, so feel free to check out my photos, datalogs, and videos on my "build" thread: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...ml#post6395155
Good luck to all cars in this month's group. Real-deal cool cars!
---not sure where FJA1791 is from, but I just now realized that RedZ377 and CustomBlackbird also stomp around New Jersey here with me! Thats AWESOME
Last edited by IROCZman15; 09-20-2020 at 11:29 PM.
I wish FJA1791 would have posted up. His car is one of my favorites on this board, super clean, and a real sleeper with mid 10 second time slips.
I do ask people to confirm they can participate and I send out PM's when the voting thread begins, so I am always surprised when they don't show up after saying 'yes' just a few days earlier.
There's an Exhaust forum tailored to questions like this, https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exhaust/
Although, I can guess you already knew that and you're interested in answers from the collection of people in this particular thread.
A single exhaust is easier to package in our cars than a dual exhaust. A good Y-pipe with single 3.5" or 4" exhaust will take you pretty far. It's really the muffler that will make or break you. Gotta have a straight-thru muffler for higher Hp engines, which means it's going to be loud.... very loud. Flowmaster makes an excellent Y-pipe merge.
There's no point struggling with fitment issues of dual exhaust until you're desperate for dual 3" or larger. The only bolt-on dual exhaust for our cars is the 2.5" Hooker system and frankly there are single systems better than that.
09-16-2020, 06:02 PM
