I changed my oil today, and when I bought my oil, i pulled 5 quarts off the same shelf and the same line of oil. The front one said 10w-30, so I figured they all were 10w-30. After I put the new oil in, however, I looked at the bottles and I had (4) 10w-30 quarts and one 20w-50. Wal-Mart and their shelf stockers Is this going to hurt anything to where I need to change oil again now, along with the oil filter? I really don't want to go and pay another 15 bucks for 5 quarts of Valvoline High milage 10w-30 and another fram oil filter. I asked walmart if they would change my oil for free and they said no because I should have checked them when I got them. Bastards.

 

It's allright. Don't worry, won't hurt anything. You can mix various oils, be it brands or weights or multi-grades.

The one slightly higher weight multi-grade will hardly change the other characteristics of the 10W-30.

 

you get like 15W 45????

 

You actually used a Fram oil filter?? I hate those things... the filtration always seem to fall apart.

 

actually it would be 15w-40

sirously... the oil in your car really really isn't important - as long as it is clean and not too old.

 

Good Deal Fram is all wal-mart caries anymore for a decent price. it was only like 3 bucks. Now getting that old penzoil oil filter was a bitch.

 

You mean US Wal-mart's don't carry AC Delco ? that's the one thing I like about Wal-mart. Delco Filter @ Walmart = $3, Delco Filter @ GM =$8

 

I DON"T USE FRAM OIL FILTERS.

This (http://minimopar.net/oilfilter-fram1.txt) is an e-mail from an Allied Signal production engineer about the FRAM filters he was involved in producing.

This link (http://minimopar.net/oilfilters.html) is some good reading if you want more info on oil filters.

 

Holy ****....that sucks, note to self: no more fram oil filters

 

Just for the record, my local Wal-mart don't carry AC Delco filters. I have to go to advance auto to get mine. Actually,....I just think OUR Wal-mart sucks. And I have to totally agree. Fram sucks. Stay away from them.

 

yeah i agree....out of the last 10 blown up motors ive changed at work,6 or 7 had fram filters on them. ive had a few foriegns(nissan for one)that came in with too much oil pressure...guess what? took off the fram and replaced even a bone-zone filter they were cured Nice huh?
give me a hastings filter anytime. Dude,i also hate those freggin sure grip ones fram makes cuz i can never get them off after the shady-tree mechanic before me crammed it on to 200 ft/lb lol

 

Walmart down here used to sell the Delco filters for $2.73. Now I just go into any parts house, and I tell them to price match it. Works just fine for me.

Mixing the oil is not a real big issue so you shouldn't have a thing to worry about.

 

could you add half 5w-30 and half 10w-30 to get 7.5w-30? you know...something for late fall when it is cold during the morning and night but hot during the day, i know it is kinda over kill but if it works then y not?

 

I will definately steer clear of fram oil filters from now on, and warn my friends that use them to change oil filters.as for the oil, what do the numbers mean?

 

i use to use fram oil filters untill i read some of the info on here... now i use puralator...

 

ok heres how i was taught....the 10w-40 or 20w-50 ,etc ....the "w " doesent stand for weight like people think. I was taught that (example 10w40) works like a 10 weight oil in winter(in cold weather),but acts like a 40 weight oil in summer(warm outside) now like in new cars they use 5w 30 ,because the 5w(acts like a 5 weight oil in winter) is thinner and gets to where it needs to go quicker,taking care or a lifers tick etc quick so folks dont grip about a noise,etc in thier brand new car.
Thats how my shop teacher explained it to us back in my earlier days. It makes sense to me
mike

 

SAY AWAY FROM THOSE DAMN FRAMS, THEY SUCK. PUNCH UP OIL FILTER COMPARISONS ON SEARCH. THERE IS A GUY WHO DID AN ENTIRE STUDY ON ALL THE BIG BRANDS [REAL INFORMATIVE]. MOBIL 1 AND PURALATOR PURE ONE GOT BEST RATINGS. TELLS YOU WHO REALLY MAKES WHAT BRANDS. HE CUTS THEM OPEN, MEASURED FILTER MATERIAL ECT... ILL POST BACK WITH HIS EXACT ADDRESS.. ILL TRY TO FIND IT. IF I CANT ITS IN THE BEGINNING [PAGE OR TWO] OF RESULTS.

 

88TRANS the site you were talking about is probably the one I gave a link to.

 

BELKER , AWESOME..THATS THE ONE I WAS REFERRING TO. I READ THE OLDER 99 VERSION. IN THAT ONE HE GIVES MEASUREMENTS OF THE FILTER MATERIAL, DEMENSIONS ECT.. THIS NEWER VERSION IS MUCH EASIER TO READ. GREAT INFO.. EVERYONE WHO GIVES A RATS *** ABOUT THIER ENGINES SOULD GO TO BELKERS PREVIOUS POST AND CLICK ON THE LINK THAT HE PROVIDED....

 

It's ok to mix viscosity in engine oil but some brands are not compatable with others and could cause foaming due to the use of diffrent detergents and additives so for your best results try to stay with the same brand.. Also..

Straight weight oil viscosity levels (5, 10, 15, 20, 30, 40, 50, etc.) have a number, often followed by the letter "W". The "W" signifies the low-temperature pour character of the oil and also its minimum viscosity at 212 degrees F.

Since the 1960's, multi-viscosity oils have been popular. In simple terms, a multi-viscosity oil, such as 10W-40, means that the oil will pour and flow like a 10-weight oil at very low temperatures yet offer the same lubrication ability as 40-weight oil when the engine reaches operating temperatures.

 

thats what i said lol :rockon:

 

What if you mix synthetic with dino? I did this.

 

hmm..never thought of that....of i know,yo uget a synthetic blend oil lol

 

so you can mix the differnt oils and get that 7.5w-30 oil....or my dad put 5w-30 in the volvo and it says 10w-30 or something in the winter, can we dump in a few 20w-50s?

 

Thanks, I'll be taking the Fram off tomorrow at work. got to change oil anyway before the winter. Never again Fram. That's what this board is for-information that is shared.

 

You shouldn't mix synthetic with mineral oil.

 

WHY EXACTLY SHOULD YOU NOT MIX SYNTH. WITH REG. OIL. IVE HEARD THIS BEFORE, SOMETHING TELLS ME THAT IT IS PROBABLY CORRECT BUT I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW EXACTLY WHY??? CAN ANYONE IMPART THEIR WISDOM ON ME....THANKS

 

Thanks for doing a great job in trying to get the truth out! You can
quote me anytime.

[name withheld]

...yeah...did he do that or you?

 

If you mix sythetic and normal non-synthetic oil,
The chemical reaction will be out-right dangerous!
Mixing these two 'oils' will resault in explosion upon contact with the two different chemicals.

 

HMM...I WONDER WHY THE BIG OIL DRAIN BUCKET AT WORK HASNT EXPLODED THEN CUZ WE CHANGE ALOT OF REGULAR AND SYNTHETIC OIL AND IT ALL GOES INTO THE SAME BUCKET

 

Only time knows how long until that bucket is no more.

 

We have a medical group that bring there cars to us. They have there oil changed every 3,000 miles and with every change they get 1 quart of synthetic. They drive everything from Z cars to Corvette's and Staition wagons. The typical family car would be the high mileage one they do trade in and outta cars all the time. I've seen some of them in the past with well over 150,000 on them though... But I did do a search and found this..

Mixing: NEO 20w-50 synthetic will mix with petroleum oils it is not necessary to flush the engine when NEO is first used. However, mixing a large amount of petroleum with NEO will reduce the qualities of the NEO and will shorten the service life. NEO SAE 20w-50 is designed for high performance engines of all kinds, and for any engine that is pushed to the limit of performance and temperature. Excellent for trailer towing in high temperatures and for racing engines.. <------- I have never heard of this stuff actually... and

Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ is fully compatible with conventional motor oils, semi-synthetic motor oils and other synthetic motor oils should it be necessary to mix them. But the superior performance of Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ will be reduced by diluting it.
Also note I didn't look at amsoil... If I recall, originally you had to flush your engine to use amsoil and it couldn't be mixed. Now I donno... recomend looking before dumping amsoil in your engine.

Castrol Synthetic is what we had been mixing with Castrol 20-50 before with our customers upon request. We now stock mobil 1.. I'm sure it's going in with the Castrol now

 

The synthetic oil does not oxidize in the same rapid way that mineral oil does. The extreme pressures and temperatures in racing engines therefore need synthetic to last. The lubricating properties of the synthetic are better than mineral, and the additives in synthetic can last longer in a non oxidizing situation.

Mineral oil oxidizes and breaks down, you can smell the carbon in old oil. It will do that whether there is any synthetic oil in with it or not. So a drop of synthetic will not help a mineral oil last any longer.

The synthetic oil is almost a single type molecule, whilst the mineral oil is a huge range of different hydrocarbons with the wax and asphalt removed, so it doesn't gum up the engine.

The thing that a reciprocating engine needs most is an oil with the correct additives. When the pistons stop at each end of their travel, it is the additives which hold the piston off the walls until the piston starts moving again and can build up a wedge of oil like a water skier to hold it off the wall.

When different makes and types of oil are mixed, the additive characteristics may or may not match up so they might be OK or they may not provide the same degree of protection as with a single oil. You would need to check or chance it.

When synthetic and mineral run through a low stressed engine, any street V8, there are not enough forces to overcome the lubrication. As the forces go up, in tuned machines, the forces rise greatly, and the lubricant quality becomes critical, because you must be able to predict when the lubrication will fail.

A mixture of oils will be unpredictable for sure.

That is one set of problems. The other problem is the lubrication thin layer that sticks to and does not move over the metal. Only one of the lubricants can do this, because the layer is so thin. When you mix the oils you can get one type of oil on the metal and another in the gap between that layer and the other piece of metal. Effectively you can make the oil film thinner and you can get irregular flows over the bearing surfaces.

 

GREAT INFO GUYS. ALL THIS INFO. BEGS THE OBVIOUS QUESTION....WHATS THE DEAL WITH SYNTH. BLENDS. WHY DO THEY EXIST...

 

for the guy that wants the cheaper price of regular oil(so he doesent have to pay $5 a quart lol) with a little added protection that synthetic synthetic gives.............i guess.i dunno...ive torn down 100,000 mile motors for bad intake gaskets and whatnot that ran "regular" oil and still looked like new inside with not alot of visible wear (of course the people actually changed thier oil every 2000...to 3000 miles max) ...so.... (in my experience anyways) regular oil works just fine,unless you have some huge high rpm/high load motor that works very hard all the time..
i use regular oil im all my stuff,but i drive 2,000 miles and change it....itys nasty enough after 2,000 miles lol . If i was running a synthetic,then mabye i could go 3-4k mile sbetween changes....(b.t.w. have you seen these car guys in the NEWSpaper saying go 5-6k miles between changes??? im like ahh no not on my car! lol
just my $.02 this post has had a great turnout... ITS COOL TO GET EVERYBODYS INPUT....HEY THAT REMINDS ME....WHO MAKES MOBIL BRAND FILTERS?I GET EM FREE FROM WORK HOPEFULY THEY ARE NOT FRAM ...ANY BODY THAT KNOWS WHO MAKES MIBIL FLTERS PLEASE LET ME KNOW!!!LOL rock on PEACE OUT!!!
:rockon:

 

I use 20/50 Castrol and change it very close to every 2 thousand miles. I asked our service manager today why these folks used the 1 quart synthetic thing and he said they were told by some porsche dealership that if you put 1 quart of synthetic in your oil change it fills the pours in the bearings or something like that.... LOL Now watch them be right. anyway, I'll stick to my Castrol

 

Ok lets clear up the story:
10 W 30

The 10 stands for the viscosity of the oil @ 32 degrees fareinheight

The "W " shows that the oil has been approved for winter use by SAE (society of automotive engineers)

The 30 Means the oil although flows like a 10 weight it protetcs like a straight 30

This info was taught to me at a conference in detroit by General Motors I hope I got it right...

 

MIKAGE2,
I BELIEVE ACCORDING TO A VERY GOOD STUDY I SAW THAT CHAMPION MAKES THE MOBIL1 FILTER. DONT LET THAT BOTHER YOU. EVEN THOUGH CHAMPION FILTERS SUCK THE MOBIL1 IS A TOTALLY DIFFERENT BEAST. MOBIL1 GOT TERRIFIC RATEINGS. IT HAS A SYNTHETIC ELEMENT, NOT PAPER LIKE THE STANDARD CHAMPIONS. MOBIL1 AND PUREONE GOT THE BEST REVIEWS.

 

i knew that,but these are just regular mobil filters...white with blue and red lettering...not mobil 1 filters... i wa slooking but couldnt find who made em in that list that dude posted awhile back

 

LMAO