Can i remove the hatch pull-down motor???
Can i remove the hatch pull-down motor???
I'm in the progress of re-doing my interior and was wondeirng if i could just take out the WHOLE hatch motor assembly.........???
I mean it hasn't worked for YEARS.....and i haven't had any problems.........It has been disconnected....cause it's broke....
I'm always looking to save weight, so back to the question, can i just throw this thing out???
Thanks in advance.....
I mean it hasn't worked for YEARS.....and i haven't had any problems.........It has been disconnected....cause it's broke....
I'm always looking to save weight, so back to the question, can i just throw this thing out???
Thanks in advance.....
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 13,579
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
You could always use one from an 82-85, but you'll have to fabricate some brackets. For the couple pounds you'll save, I'd say it's not worth it.
Originally posted by SpeedJunkie
Yeah but then your hatch wont be pulled down or even shut cause that whole motor is the part the hatch bolts into.
I think Im right
Yeah but then your hatch wont be pulled down or even shut cause that whole motor is the part the hatch bolts into.
I think Im right
-fly
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 390
Likes: 0
From: hazlet NJ
Car: 92 firebird
Engine: 305 tbi
Transmission: t-5
i took mine out to fix it once but then theres nothin there to keep your hatch from opening. u need something to keep it closed. i wouldnt even bother taking it out its not that much weight anyway.
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Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 20
From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
My hatch motor didn't work either. I didn't have the money to replace it. My solution was simple, cheap, and very effective:
1) I took the actual motor off the assembly. Now all that's left is the two guides (one slides in/out of the other) on each side.
2) I carefully closed the hatch.
3) I put my 7 year old son 's butt on the hatch, gave him a candy bar, and told him to sit still and eat. His weight provided a perfect weight to hold hatch down in a tightly closed state, without being too heavy.
Note: any 7-8 year old will do, but you must get the right candy bar for the procedure to work.
3) I climbed inside, and with finger nail polish, I marked three lines across each slide on each side.
Note: Color of polish your choice - I'm an old fashioned kinda guy, used simple red.
4) I then climbed out, got 7 year old off hatch, removed hatch closure pieces from car, and took them to a machine shop. I had the guy align the marks I'd made, clamp them firmly in place, and drill a hole on each side in through the slides - he charged me $10, but he had the right clamps and a nice drill press for the job.
5) Went to Ace hardware and bought 2 bolts/nuts for these drilled holes, reassembled slides with these bolts, put unit back in car, and carefully closed hatch.
Whole thing took 1 hour, cost me $11.48, and I now have a normal closing hatch (no motor) with a nice fit.
Best part: I can at any time in the future return to the motor pull down, simply by removing the bolts from the slides.
Second best part: My 7 year old got a candy bar, but the Ex is responsible for the dental bills.
1) I took the actual motor off the assembly. Now all that's left is the two guides (one slides in/out of the other) on each side.
2) I carefully closed the hatch.
3) I put my 7 year old son 's butt on the hatch, gave him a candy bar, and told him to sit still and eat. His weight provided a perfect weight to hold hatch down in a tightly closed state, without being too heavy.
Note: any 7-8 year old will do, but you must get the right candy bar for the procedure to work.
3) I climbed inside, and with finger nail polish, I marked three lines across each slide on each side.
Note: Color of polish your choice - I'm an old fashioned kinda guy, used simple red.
4) I then climbed out, got 7 year old off hatch, removed hatch closure pieces from car, and took them to a machine shop. I had the guy align the marks I'd made, clamp them firmly in place, and drill a hole on each side in through the slides - he charged me $10, but he had the right clamps and a nice drill press for the job.
5) Went to Ace hardware and bought 2 bolts/nuts for these drilled holes, reassembled slides with these bolts, put unit back in car, and carefully closed hatch.
Whole thing took 1 hour, cost me $11.48, and I now have a normal closing hatch (no motor) with a nice fit.
Best part: I can at any time in the future return to the motor pull down, simply by removing the bolts from the slides.
Second best part: My 7 year old got a candy bar, but the Ex is responsible for the dental bills.
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From: Somewhere around the South Side of Chicago just crusin' in one of the Niteriders
Car: 92RS 25th Anniv./88 IROC Z28 Vert
Engine: 305 TBI w/Tpi Air / 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4/700r4
Axle/Gears: Posi
PMail LFN AT U. He has a ton of them for like $35.00 bucks that actually pulldown and work.
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