How would I go about getting better traction out of a 85 Camaro without tubbing the rearend? I want to keep a stock look to it. I will be hitting the 11's.

 

so you will be running 11s but have no clue how to get traction....

riiight...and if you're interested, i have a bridge in brooklyn i'd like to sell ya...

Anyways, so im at least some help.... check out www.spohn.net for suspension components

 

what he said! good luck

 

c'mon guys, i give him the benefit of the doubt.. maybe he means in the 1/8th.. but anyway i was going to ask the same question... is there any cheap way to add traction? like a small mod or something??snow tires even?

 

um.. i dunno if you can get them cheap .. but traction bars are an option.

a.k.a. lift bars

work with axle torque to lift and load the chassis... this forces the wheels downward "planting the tires", transferring power to the pavement and eliminating wheel hop for improved traction and straight line launch.

 

Only good way to get traction in the 11 second range is SLICKS, with a good posi of course.

 

LCA Relocation brackets
Boxed or tubular LCA's
Better torque arm with DS loop
Roll cage (if you run faster than 11.50)
Subframe connectors
battery relocation to the rear
good tires
disconnect front sway bar
use V6 rear springs

 

That wasnt me who posted that. I let my friend AJ post it. He is buying a thirdgen soon and building a 500+ HP engine at college. He is going to Northwestern Ohio. He is using 4.56 gears and a T-56 tranny. He was also thinking NOS too. Don't know yet.



See ya later.


PS... I was thinking LCA, UCA, Slicks, Subframe connectors, drive shaft loop, and remove the front sway bar. I am thinking he might hook leaving the line at 3000 RPM.

 

Seriously, call up Steve Spohn. Not b/c he is a sponsor, but b/c he is great at what he does! He is not in the market to have everyone buy all of his stuff. Call him up and he will recommend the right parts for your application if you tell him the specs! He was a great help to me. His stuff has great prices too. good luck to your friend

 

agreed!!

 

Don't forget an airbag in the passenger side spring. I know a guy that is running a spool with an airbag in the passengers side and is running low 10's in a Turbo Buick Regal. He says that not even the posi alone will get you good traction. The axel will still twist up on that side and you will get less traction from that side. The only way to get the most from it is to also get the pair of airbags and put one in. Just take one of those small air tanks with you to the track and fill the bag up when you go to run it.

This is just my $.02 though.

 

Yeah, thats another alternative! Besides suspension parts there is drag shocks and struts as well as springs. The Eibach springs come with one air bag for the right rear spring. I have them and they are not that bad on the street. A little "floaty" but streetable.

 

Although this is an interesting Body and interior question...

For straight line racing, you want a little floaty, soft suspension for weight transfer...

All I know is i took some sheet metal ,and boxed in my LCAs, and pan hard bar.. What a difference just that made... worth the time... Not running anywhere near 11's, heck I am no where close to 13's but the traction difference was unbelievable...

You might even want a Ford 9", or some other stout rear axel, with traction, and power you will probably blow apart your gears..

John

 

Whats that matter okfoz, suspension parts are a part of the body and if we were to tell him to get a roll bar/cage, that would be considered the interior! LOL Anyways, sorry for the confussion in my last post. When i said they are floaty on the street, i was trying to say that those springs are still streetable, they are just designed for straight line performance. They are not your typical stock replacement or lowering spring. "Drag Launch Springs", its all in the name!

 

Here's an idea: Post this on the SUSPENSION board instead of the body/interior board.