Hood latch question
Hood latch question
When I pull my hood latch handle sonetimes the hood pops up and sometimes it doesn't. When it doesn't I can usually just push down a little on the hood and then it pops up. I've tried WD-40 and such with not much luck. Is there something else I should be using or am i looking at a new latch?
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From: San Antonio, Texas
Car: '86 Trans Am
Engine: LG4
Transmission: 700R4
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Mine used to do that. I used some moly grease and applied it to the end of the cable and a little on the latch itself.
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From: chesapeake va
Car: 08 Sierra, 08 Silverado, 91 z28
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my 89 camaro did that ill i got a new hood, worked since, my dads truck as done it since it was new off the lot. Try moving the latch around differant ways, might help
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From: Maryland...DO I HAVE TO ADMIT TO THAT?!
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro RS
Engine: 283
Transmission: 700r4 Auto
mine does that too...i need someone to lift the hood while im pulling on the latch...ive talked to two other camaro owners & they have the same problem
I got the same problem. I cleaned the latch w/ brake cleaner and a toothbrush- its clean and has new grease but still sticks most of the time. I think I'm gonna buy a new latch & cable- Classic Industries has 'em.
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From: st. Petersburg, Fla
Car: 83 Z28
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Make sure that either the latch itself, or the loop that it catches on to does not have a groove worn into it, if it does a little file work goes a long way. You may also want to lower the adjustment rubbers at the front of the hood just a tad to take off some of the pre-load.
I've tried WD-40 a number of times and it only works for a few days. I cleaned everything with brake cleaner eventually and still had problems. I have yet to try a thicker gease.
could someone go into a little more detail about blacksheep's post? what has to be filed? what is pre-load and by "lowering" the rubbers, does that mean to push them in farther or have them pulled out?
could someone go into a little more detail about blacksheep's post? what has to be filed? what is pre-load and by "lowering" the rubbers, does that mean to push them in farther or have them pulled out?
CaysE - by adjusting the preload on the rubbers, he was referring to pushing them in just a bit so that there is not as much tension on the hood when it is closed. I can't remember without looking at them but if they are the same as ones of the hatch then they actually screw in and out.
For the latch, try lifting the hood and then have a friend pull the lever repeatedly while you watch the latch to see if it comes back far enough. Look at the moving latch part (that hooks the U bolt on the hood) to see if it has any wear or grooves...if so, file it flat again. Definitely lubricate it with some grease though or silicone lubricant. WD40 evaporates and that is why it only lasts a few days. One other thing to check, I noticed on mine that the little metal grommet thing on the end of the cable sheath where it fits into the latch was broken. This allowed the cable to pop out and not allow it to open as easily.
Hope this helps
For the latch, try lifting the hood and then have a friend pull the lever repeatedly while you watch the latch to see if it comes back far enough. Look at the moving latch part (that hooks the U bolt on the hood) to see if it has any wear or grooves...if so, file it flat again. Definitely lubricate it with some grease though or silicone lubricant. WD40 evaporates and that is why it only lasts a few days. One other thing to check, I noticed on mine that the little metal grommet thing on the end of the cable sheath where it fits into the latch was broken. This allowed the cable to pop out and not allow it to open as easily.
Hope this helps
Last edited by eddie jr; Sep 25, 2003 at 09:50 PM.
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Dammit, kerryismygirl, you beat me to it.
Yep, hood lift struts are a factor, too. That's what gives the most "upward pressure" to the hood latch. Things will really get weird if one strut has more kick left then the other strut!
Also make sure the hood latch is aligned properly.
And if your battery is on the driver's side (like mine), make sure that battery acid isn't about to cut your cable in half (like mine almost did- I got a new cable from a junkyard).
Yep, hood lift struts are a factor, too. That's what gives the most "upward pressure" to the hood latch. Things will really get weird if one strut has more kick left then the other strut!Also make sure the hood latch is aligned properly.
And if your battery is on the driver's side (like mine), make sure that battery acid isn't about to cut your cable in half (like mine almost did- I got a new cable from a junkyard).
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
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WD 40 is a solvent. not a lubricant.
i had the same prob.
look at where the wear marks on your latch are... where ever you see wear, put some GREASE on there... grease stays there... oil washes away, and WD40 leaves after some time too..
afterward, your hood should pop free easily.
to lube the cable (or any other cable in the car) use CABLE LUBE.
its sold wherever motorcycle products are sold... it wont strip away the lubricant and then leave it.(like WD40 will) and it will travel the length of the cable and lube the whole thing... makes it work real smooth.
i had the same prob.
look at where the wear marks on your latch are... where ever you see wear, put some GREASE on there... grease stays there... oil washes away, and WD40 leaves after some time too..
afterward, your hood should pop free easily.
to lube the cable (or any other cable in the car) use CABLE LUBE.
its sold wherever motorcycle products are sold... it wont strip away the lubricant and then leave it.(like WD40 will) and it will travel the length of the cable and lube the whole thing... makes it work real smooth.
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