POR-15 usage
POR-15 usage
I'm planning to put my bird up on blocks to paint the new undercarriage and do some suspension work. I've heard that POR-15 is the best thing to use, but I have no idea how much I'll need...
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 254
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From: Eastpointe Michigan
Car: 87 IROC
Engine: mini-rammed 350
Transmission: WC T-5
I just used the POR-15 on my bare metal/rusted area's,wire wheeled the rust real good b4 applying,The stuff(por-15)is pretty thin/watery,goes a long ways,
Read instructions well,and be sure to close lid WELL,oh and,if ya get it on your hands/skin lacquer thinner and a rag cuts it a LITTLE,i found using stuff called "invisible glove" (bought it a Pep boys) was a life saver
Read instructions well,and be sure to close lid WELL,oh and,if ya get it on your hands/skin lacquer thinner and a rag cuts it a LITTLE,i found using stuff called "invisible glove" (bought it a Pep boys) was a life saver
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 334
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From: Gurnee, IL
Car: '86 IROC
Engine: 305 LG4 awaiting the crate Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
Brock did you brush or spray it on? I just ordered some POR-15 today and i was just thinking that if i brushed it on, would it leave streaks from the brush? Did you get any streaks or do you have any pics of how yours turned out? thanks!!
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 254
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From: Eastpointe Michigan
Car: 87 IROC
Engine: mini-rammed 350
Transmission: WC T-5
I used a brush,believe me,where I used it,on my car,it doesnt matter.There will never be any mirrors under my car..hehe
If you used a nice brush,marks would probably be a minimum,I'm sure you can sand it,its hard as a rock.
Becarful spraying,watch overspray,and I'll bet the fumes would get ya bad,theres gotta be some strong chemicals in there to make it work as well as it does!
If you used a nice brush,marks would probably be a minimum,I'm sure you can sand it,its hard as a rock.
Becarful spraying,watch overspray,and I'll bet the fumes would get ya bad,theres gotta be some strong chemicals in there to make it work as well as it does!
Great info, but what about my question?
They sell this stuff in gallons and pints, and I need enough to cover the entire under-chassis (since it's mostly new metal). Is there anyone out there who might know how much I would need for the job? I already know what it is, how to use it, and where to get it. Now I only need to know how much. Thanks in advance...
They sell this stuff in gallons and pints, and I need enough to cover the entire under-chassis (since it's mostly new metal). Is there anyone out there who might know how much I would need for the job? I already know what it is, how to use it, and where to get it. Now I only need to know how much. Thanks in advance...
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 254
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From: Eastpointe Michigan
Car: 87 IROC
Engine: mini-rammed 350
Transmission: WC T-5
sorry,I got off topic a bit,a couple quarts should do it,but if you do your rear axle housing/firewall and wheel wells,its gonna take more.
The trouble with buying a gallon is that once you open it,it starts curing,just from the moisture in the air you let in,refridgerating it slows the rate(my wife did'nt go for that idea!)
I'm going with the assumption that your gonna brush it
hope that helps a little
The trouble with buying a gallon is that once you open it,it starts curing,just from the moisture in the air you let in,refridgerating it slows the rate(my wife did'nt go for that idea!)
I'm going with the assumption that your gonna brush it
hope that helps a little
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From: Moving to non emission state
Car: 86 Camaro
Engine: L98 350 bore .060 out, Carb power
Transmission: slusher 700 beatbox
i bought a gallon and brushed it on my undercarrage. stuff works great. i left no streaks from what i could tell, but i dont think it matters when its under the car. por15 is great. i still have a lot left though.
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 242
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Car: Green 1991 Firebird Formula
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T5
If I were to paint my entire undercarriage with por-15, not to eliminate any rust, but as a layer of protection, what would you guys recommend as far as prep work on the frame rails and floor pans? Is it ok to paint over the brake and fuel lines?
i used 1 qt for the whole underside of my car from where the engine bay starts all the way back however i put it on thick which took me a total of two 6 hour days.
make sure whatever you wear is worth throwing out as it will get all over you. wear a hat, eye and hand protection as well. i don't know how those of you with gallon sizes have been able to save any as after 1 day the stuff started to cure and basically dry out.
as far as brush marks i recommend using sponge brushes and alot of them as once they get saturated they rip apart becoming useless. i think i paid roughly 15-20 cents a piece for them and bought about $20 worth to finish the project using large or wide versions as well as small versions to get into little areas.
you will not be able to avoid the brush marks unless you were able to spray or spread it even which is almost impossible. however if the underbody is covered well and as even as possible its not very noticeable. i finished mine in the satin black and do alot of shows with no troubles and i have mirrors everywhere.
make sure whatever you wear is worth throwing out as it will get all over you. wear a hat, eye and hand protection as well. i don't know how those of you with gallon sizes have been able to save any as after 1 day the stuff started to cure and basically dry out.
as far as brush marks i recommend using sponge brushes and alot of them as once they get saturated they rip apart becoming useless. i think i paid roughly 15-20 cents a piece for them and bought about $20 worth to finish the project using large or wide versions as well as small versions to get into little areas.
you will not be able to avoid the brush marks unless you were able to spray or spread it even which is almost impossible. however if the underbody is covered well and as even as possible its not very noticeable. i finished mine in the satin black and do alot of shows with no troubles and i have mirrors everywhere.
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From: Boosted Land
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: Boosted LSX
I dont look forward to doing The underside next.. man its gona be messy.. Then again Im shooting it out of a HVLP gun so Is not to bad.
Engine bay and complete Int is done.
Engine bay and complete Int is done.
no i don't unfortunately, it looks like a normal underside but with a satin black finish. all my suspension pieces are either polished, or powdercoated black and silver so that it's cleaned up a bit. looks alot better then the metal grey it was stock and aparently holds up well to being parked all winter.....haven't had a motor in the car long enough to catch real bad weather but when it does get dirty you just wipe it clean and your good to go.
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 334
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From: Gurnee, IL
Car: '86 IROC
Engine: 305 LG4 awaiting the crate Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
Wel i just got my engine compartment pretty much done yesterday. Just gotta do the K-member and wonderbar and it should be fine. Got some pics but can someone tell me how to reduce the filesize of pics without reducing the quality and size so friggin much???
Now to start on the interior floorpans!!!!
Now to start on the interior floorpans!!!!
A gallon should be plenty. A gallon's recommended to do a whole car I think.
To keep your POR-15 from drying out put some syran wrap over the can before putting the lid on and hammer it down good.
Someone commented on the chemicals in POR-15... actually POR=resin.
Remember, that POR-15 is useless if the metal isn't totally surrounded and isn't used on bare metal or rusted metal. It doesn't adhere well to smooth (sandblasted) surfaces, either, so scuff it up good. Underbodies are usually ok if you coated it on the bare metal, but keep in mind, any moisture or whatever that gets to the topside, such as your floorpan, is still gonna let it rust from the inside out.
Mathius
To keep your POR-15 from drying out put some syran wrap over the can before putting the lid on and hammer it down good.
Someone commented on the chemicals in POR-15... actually POR=resin.
Remember, that POR-15 is useless if the metal isn't totally surrounded and isn't used on bare metal or rusted metal. It doesn't adhere well to smooth (sandblasted) surfaces, either, so scuff it up good. Underbodies are usually ok if you coated it on the bare metal, but keep in mind, any moisture or whatever that gets to the topside, such as your floorpan, is still gonna let it rust from the inside out.
Mathius
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From: LeRoy, NY
Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
I've been looking at this stuff for quite a while. I have to know one thing- Has anyone actually painted it on over rust, like their ad claims you can and not worry about it? Or would I be that much better off sandblasting or sanding in general, the components that will be exposed to the elements as long as I own the car, before I apply the POR-15?
I have a nearly pristine underbody (thank you DPO who lived in Alabama, the only thing I can thank you for!) and don't want it to turn into a complete rustbucket like my dad's Cavvy (it definitely has terminal metal cancer)!
I have a nearly pristine underbody (thank you DPO who lived in Alabama, the only thing I can thank you for!) and don't want it to turn into a complete rustbucket like my dad's Cavvy (it definitely has terminal metal cancer)!
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 334
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From: Gurnee, IL
Car: '86 IROC
Engine: 305 LG4 awaiting the crate Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
Yeah you can paint it right over rust, but you need to get rid of any loose stuff (wire wheel on a drill works awesome) and should really remove the paint so you can use it to it's full advantage. It doesn't like to bond very well to smooth/painted areas (found that out on my firewall!!!)
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From: LeRoy, NY
Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
I do believe that that gray primer undercoating stuff on the underbody is not smooth. But then, not having actually felt it, I wouldn't know, and I would have to sand all the paint off of the firewall and engine bay anyways (something to look foreward to when the 2.8 leaves for a 3.4.. someday...) because it has that rattle can/pro undercoating shop rubberized undercoating in spots.
I don't know if I can really afford a hundred bucks to do my undercarriage. I don't want to use that rubberized crap since it rubs right off, but I haven't been able to find anything much cheaper than por-15. I found some stuff online a while back that costed like $45 a gallon, so I guess I'll try to find it again...
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Acworth/Marietta, GA
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: Pro 5.0 shifted T56
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.73 posi
So at the risk of sounding like a novice, where do you get POR 15 and how much does it cost? My motor and tranny are already out of my bird, as is my interior, so now would be the time to do it.
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From: out of my mind; be back in 5 minutes....
Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: Internal Combustion
Transmission: Completed
Axle/Gears: ones that turn.
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