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Removing Decklid-Need Help

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Old Jan 3, 2004 | 08:30 AM
  #1  
Zrated83's Avatar
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From: Buckley AFB, CO / Crestview, FL
Car: 83 Z-28
Engine: LG4
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 02 WS6 Rear w/3:42
Removing Decklid-Need Help

Can you take the decklid off the rear hatch glass? I am trying to get a decklid from a 91 z-28 and was wondering if I can just take that off instead of the whole glass piece. Any advice is appreciated.

Mike
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Old Jan 3, 2004 | 08:59 AM
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the rear glass is urethaned in itl be a b*tch to remove by yourself (probably impossible ) have a glass company remove and install it for you. trust me itl be worth the money
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Old Jan 3, 2004 | 08:59 AM
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From: Norfolk, VA. USA
Car: 86 Trans Am, 88 Formula
Engine: 95LT4, 305TPI
Transmission: T56, T5
Yes you can, but it is very difficult. There is a strong adhesive that holds the glass to the decklid.
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Old Jan 3, 2004 | 10:59 AM
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From: Your neighbor's hood, MD
Car: 1987 Camaro Z28 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42:1
It's not fun, but is doable. I have had to do it twice thus far by myself, once to reseal it and once to change the decklid for my 91/92 wing. It's really not as bad as most folks make it out to be, getting it realigned is the tough part. DO NOT put too much squeeze on the bolts when you reattach the glass! Criss cross between the bolts as well as to not stress it. Use a long bladed razor knife to cut the sealant. Worst case you break the glass, they are a dime a dozen used.
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Old Jan 3, 2004 | 11:01 AM
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From: Your neighbor's hood, MD
Car: 1987 Camaro Z28 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42:1
BTW, the glass with no support rods weighs a TON! Use an old wheel/tire on top of the bump in the hatch to support the glass. Works great for me. Just be sure the tire is stable, and put it in there like it sits on the car. (Front to rear, not side to side...)
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Old Jan 3, 2004 | 11:06 AM
  #6  
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From: Your neighbor's hood, MD
Car: 1987 Camaro Z28 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42:1
Originally posted by fyrechikyn
the rear glass is urethaned in itl be a b*tch to remove by yourself (probably impossible )
Not at all. I did it in about 1/2 hour start to finish including installing a 91/92 Z28 wing just before a car show. It's just some weather sealant that holds it on after the bolts are off. Nothing a razor can't take car of. This job should not be beyond the range of the average car guy who works on his ride regularly.
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Old Jan 3, 2004 | 11:47 AM
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From: Norfolk, VA. USA
Car: 86 Trans Am, 88 Formula
Engine: 95LT4, 305TPI
Transmission: T56, T5
This is good to know.
when I broke my hatch glass, we were going to use my decklid on the hatch I was given since that hatch had a dented deck lid.
We tried to pull the parts apart and it wouldn't budge, so I used the dented decklid and my friend that does body work fixed it for me.
Dent was raised, but my friend flattened it out,
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Old Jan 3, 2004 | 11:59 AM
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From: Your neighbor's hood, MD
Car: 1987 Camaro Z28 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42:1
If the dent was not bad and the deck alignment was good, I probably would have done the same thing. Getting the alignment right is a severe PITA. Nothing complex, just alot of trial, error, and corrections. Most factory aligned lids are sticking out too far by now from all the years of the hatch supports pushing outwards on them. When you reinstall the deck, toe it in towards the car a little bit, perhaps 1/4 inch. Once you reconnect the support rods the alignment will change again and push outwards slightly.
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Old Jan 3, 2004 | 01:30 PM
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X86TRANSAMWS6X's Avatar
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From: Palmer, MA
Car: 87 Conquest TSI, 86 Fiero GT
hey zepher, if ya dont mind me askin why was ure car being towed??
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Old Jan 3, 2004 | 03:23 PM
  #10  
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From: Norfolk, VA. USA
Car: 86 Trans Am, 88 Formula
Engine: 95LT4, 305TPI
Transmission: T56, T5
Originally posted by X86TRANSAMWS6X
hey zepher, if ya dont mind me askin why was ure car being towed??
Had to have the custom y-pipe made and exhaust welded on and didn't want to drive 15 miles with open shorty headers.
I would have gotten a ticket before I got out to the neighborhood,


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Old Jan 3, 2004 | 06:07 PM
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From: Southwest Chicago 'burbs
The way I alligned my deck lid, it was pretty easy. After you get the new lid on, snug the bolts enough to where it holds flat, but it's not clamped tight. Then lower the hatch down, and allow it to latch. Then push it into the position you want it to hold. After you do that, climb into the hatch and snug the bolts down tight. Like the other guy said, don't over tighten and apply torque evenly. It took probably 30 min. from start to finish. When you are done with that, you can allign the hatch latch on the body up or down to adjust latching height.
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Old Jan 4, 2004 | 09:30 PM
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From: Buckley AFB, CO / Crestview, FL
Car: 83 Z-28
Engine: LG4
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 02 WS6 Rear w/3:42
Ok thanks for the advice guys. Do you think the better route would be to get a decklid that has the holes for the high rise or just fill in my original holes with bondo?

Is there weather sealant on each side of the decklid? Can I take the decklid off with the glass still attached to the car or do I have to take it off?
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Old Jan 4, 2004 | 09:38 PM
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From: Southwest Chicago 'burbs
Either way is fine, but it would definately be easier if you could find a decklid already drilled for the hi-rise spoiler.

You could remove the decklid with the glass still on the car, but if I remember right the hatch struts attach to the metal plate sandwiched on the bottom side of the glass under the decklid. So have a buddy support the glass or find something to prop it open. The glass weighs about 60 pounds without the decklid installed...
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