I've been looking at some of the thirdgens on this board and quite frankly, I'm jealous. My car looks like *ss even though I've stuck way too much $$ in it already.

My question is - What's a really good reference for doing bodywork and painting? It seems to me that there are a lot of "tricks to the trade" that all the books I've seen so far, don't divulge.

The only thing I've done to my car since I got it three years ago bodywise, is I sanded all the paint off with 80 grit sandpaper with D.A. and rattle can primered it. The original paint was shot along with a fender and door which I've replaced with boneyard parts.

On a good note, there's no rust through on any of the panels, but there is some pitting along the bottom in the usual places. Open to any suggestions. Want to paint it silver eventually. Here's what I have now:

 

here is a post i ran throught with my project alot of good info and help from the members here the car came out really good for a first paint job.

jeff


parts 1 -3
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ct+resurection


parts 4 to current
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ct+resurection

 

80 is to low of a grit to be priming over,,you need to redo the whole car, lay down a skim coat of filler adn then sand it all down, block it out and then last finsih blocking it with 220 grit, and then prime, but dont rattle can, professional body paint doesnt stick to rattle can primer very good, if at all....then block out your primer, use a good one, from a body shop suppley store, and then block it again, and then final sand iwth 320 and you are ready for paint....

 

your gonna have to sand to more than 320, 400 is the LEAST i would use 600 is good anything less and you run risk of sandscratch swelling

 

You can read all the books you want, but if you really want to "learn", then you'll need some "hands on" with some professional instruction. Its the only way. You can get training through many of the paint manufacturers, they are open to anyone.

 

The only time you really have to go down to bare metal is if the current paint is peeling or flaking off, or has cracks in it. Otherwise, the factory paint job is perfect as a base; scuff-sand it with 320, spray a sealer, and then spray the new paint. If the old paint has withstood the test of time then why mess with it? And if the old paint is completely shot, the 320 will wipe it right off and you'll be at bare metal. So you'll know as soon as you start scuff sanding!

 

Thanks for all the info everyone, and great link Jeff - it helps alot!

Charged350 - It's already down to bare metal. I just have rattle can primer on it in the interim. I wouldn't think of putting any kind of decent paint over that. It comes right off, and will. So when I get the primer off, I should go over the bare metal with finer sandpaper and then skim coat, correct?

FndmntlsOfPimpn - what is "sandscratch swelling"? I've never heard that term before.

GMTech - I wish I knew someone in the body/paint buisiness, but I don't. This board is probably the best resource I have to date. At least when I get this started, I can post pics and ask questions from those of you guys that have "been there and done that".

TomP - I thought you left the board or something! I hadn't seen you post for awhile. The original paint on the car was in the condition you described - peeling, flaking and some surface rust. It definatley DID NOT withstand the test of time very well. That's why it's down to bare metal under the rattle can primer.

I plan to start buying all the materials I'll need to do this in a month. I'd really like to paint it Sebring silver with a couple clear coats on top. I'm also getting a 3" cowl hood before I paint.

I plan on trying my hand at the ground effects first. If I don't screw those up too bad, then the body is next!

If anyone has any more "pointers", keep 'em coming!!

 

sand scratch swelling is when after u get done with the paint u can see gouges in the paint from the sanp paper the clearcoat magnifies it so out side in the sun it almost looks like brush makrs from a paintbrush

 

He is correct and since you say you are going to spray it a Silver color it probably has some metallic in it and metallic will just magnify the sand scratches because the metallic will "flow" into the scratch therefore making it stand out.

 

Im a dumb *** at body work myself but getting better.When i first started learning i went to the local colledge that ran body work courses,and went to there book store.They'll have excellent books in there on the subject.Same books that apprentice body men use when theyre starting out.The book i bought was 80bux cdn but was loaded with info,even showed you how to take two car halves and put em back together.Its deffineatly a good start

PS rattle can primer (the cheap stuff) absorbes moisture

 

Thanks for the tips!

I'm gathering more info on how to do this little by little. I like the idea of going to a college with a auto body shop for reference books....I'll take a closer look at that!

What I think I'm hearing from you guys is that I'll need to sand the primer off, and sand the metal with a finer grit of sandpaper before I put any decent sealing primer on it to prevent "sand scratches"....is that correct? And what grit do you recommend?

And yeah, I know rattle can primer absorbs moisture - it was meant to be temporary until I got ready to do this. It's not a daily driver (good thing) and hardly ever sees the rain, and stays in the garage during the winter.

EDIT: JeffW - Would you mind if I PM'ed you for some pointers along the way? Your thread is very informative!! But I'm not painting with candy colors like you did, just a base coat/ clear coat(s). And BTW, I like your name - seems familiar somehow!

- Jeff

 

JeffW is compiling a tech article, look for it here in the near future.
He's got a great working knowledge of what it takes to do these DIY paintjobs.
Read over his combined threads on the subject, I know it's a lot to absorb, but it's got some good info.
basically, use quality materials, take your time, and if you don't know, ask away.