Painting interior panels... wtf :(
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From: South Florida
Engine: 3.8L - 5.8L 351W
Painting interior panels... wtf :(
So I took out all the interior accent panels to paint em to add a better look to the car, and I ended up screwing everything up.
The first time around, I figured I didn't have to primor, but I realized I did because the panels had some sort of rubber coating on top of the actual plastic which would take days to sand off.
Then I headed over to Home Depot to grab some plastic primor and plastic paint, I put it on top of the other stuff I screwed up and it came out ok-lookin, but I want to do a better job.
I clear coated them so now I'm not sure what the best approach to taking off the clear coat and the previous layers of paint is, what sort of substance should I use to take it off? Acetone(sp?) or just start sanding?
I want to do a good job on this so I can get rid of it and buy a 88. (right after i fix this thing's blown head gasket
)
The first time around, I figured I didn't have to primor, but I realized I did because the panels had some sort of rubber coating on top of the actual plastic which would take days to sand off.
Then I headed over to Home Depot to grab some plastic primor and plastic paint, I put it on top of the other stuff I screwed up and it came out ok-lookin, but I want to do a better job.
I clear coated them so now I'm not sure what the best approach to taking off the clear coat and the previous layers of paint is, what sort of substance should I use to take it off? Acetone(sp?) or just start sanding?
I want to do a good job on this so I can get rid of it and buy a 88. (right after i fix this thing's blown head gasket
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From: Connecticut
Car: 86 IROC w/Danko bodykit, 1988 iroc vert, 1989 k1500 pickup 6" lift and 35" tires, 2002 chevy tahoe z71
Engine: 383 stealth ram, 305 tpi, 350 tbi, 5.3l
Transmission: T56, 700r4, 700r4, 4l460
i would say take paint thinner or well bond to remove the old paint than go and use a plastic primer and than paint them. i never painted any interior parts before but my friend did and you cant tell the difference.
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From: Midwest
Car: '82 Recaro T/A, '71 Trans Am
Engine: 305CFI/455HO
Transmission: TH700R4/M22
Axle/Gears: 3.23/3.42
Man, it sounds like you messed up all your interior panels ....
Lacquer thinner should remove any coating and dye and won't hurt the plastic.
This is how you SHOULD have did it.
1. Clean with lacquer thinner
2. Clean with plastic prep.
3. Very light scuff with an SOS pad or fine sand paper.
4. Re-clean with plastic prep again.
5. Prime with special plastic primer
6. Spray color in 2-3 light coats.
The quality and durability of the job all rely on the prep work!
Lacquer thinner should remove any coating and dye and won't hurt the plastic.
This is how you SHOULD have did it.
1. Clean with lacquer thinner
2. Clean with plastic prep.
3. Very light scuff with an SOS pad or fine sand paper.
4. Re-clean with plastic prep again.
5. Prime with special plastic primer
6. Spray color in 2-3 light coats.
The quality and durability of the job all rely on the prep work!
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From: Chesterfield, Indiana
Car: 1991 Z28 Camaro
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: Jasper 700R4 Stage II
Axle/Gears: 3.23 For Now
if you wipe the pieces down with lacquer thinner...do it fast..because if you saturate your plastic parts....it's possible the thinner will start to eat the plastic...and make the plastic soft. I used pre-clean when I painted mine..and they came out great.
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From: Arcadia ,Ca
Car: 82 firebird s/e 83 Trans Am
Engine: 5.0L 305ci 4b carb.....CFI
Transmission: TH200C....700R4
84customz28,those came out bitchen......
I painted mine with krylom fusion,there a lot better than before
I painted mine with krylom fusion,there a lot better than before
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Painting your interior is the dumbest thing you can do. I just got into a huge argument the other day about it. I'll paste in what I said on another forum:
First post:
Paint out of a rattle can is FAR different from paint out of a gun. The EPA prohibits isocyanates in shaker cans, and you have to have a proper ventilation system required by law. Anything without the isocyanate-based hardener will simply flake off, has a terrible adhesion, and will turn to a sticky goo with heat. ASK ME HOW I KNOW. it doesn't matter how it's prepped... it won't last. ESPECIALLY if you touch it. The oils from your skin will cause it to break down and become a big sticky mess. And don't even think about using Armor All on it...
My other post regarding the issue:
Krylon Fusion? That s--t is GARBAGE. Don't buy it. Don't paint your interior. If you want a new color, go buy parts that came in a different color from a junkyard. Paint/dye flakes, peels, bubbles, melts, and gets tacky in heat. I painted my interior all black (it was black with dark gray trim) and it ruined my clothes (arm rests). Krylon Fusion, which is the same thing as VHT interior dye basically, is what I used. Garbage. I took it all off with gasoline and a toothbrush. Never again will I paint my interior.
First post:
Paint out of a rattle can is FAR different from paint out of a gun. The EPA prohibits isocyanates in shaker cans, and you have to have a proper ventilation system required by law. Anything without the isocyanate-based hardener will simply flake off, has a terrible adhesion, and will turn to a sticky goo with heat. ASK ME HOW I KNOW. it doesn't matter how it's prepped... it won't last. ESPECIALLY if you touch it. The oils from your skin will cause it to break down and become a big sticky mess. And don't even think about using Armor All on it...
My other post regarding the issue:
Krylon Fusion? That s--t is GARBAGE. Don't buy it. Don't paint your interior. If you want a new color, go buy parts that came in a different color from a junkyard. Paint/dye flakes, peels, bubbles, melts, and gets tacky in heat. I painted my interior all black (it was black with dark gray trim) and it ruined my clothes (arm rests). Krylon Fusion, which is the same thing as VHT interior dye basically, is what I used. Garbage. I took it all off with gasoline and a toothbrush. Never again will I paint my interior.
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From: Arcadia ,Ca
Car: 82 firebird s/e 83 Trans Am
Engine: 5.0L 305ci 4b carb.....CFI
Transmission: TH200C....700R4
I have had no probs with krylon fusion,I can rub my arm on my panells 100 times and it wont turn black.I had the car parked in vegas for a week without the louvers a month after I painted them and no fading,cracks,blisters,looks good.
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by 82knightrider
I have had no probs with krylon fusion,I can rub my arm on my panells 100 times and it wont turn black.I had the car parked in vegas for a week without the louvers a month after I painted them and no fading,cracks,blisters,looks good.
I have had no probs with krylon fusion,I can rub my arm on my panells 100 times and it wont turn black.I had the car parked in vegas for a week without the louvers a month after I painted them and no fading,cracks,blisters,looks good.
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From: edgemere, md
Car: 87 GMC Sierra
Engine: 350
Transmission: auto
Originally posted by 82knightrider
84customz28,those came out bitchen......
I painted mine with krylom fusion,there a lot better than before
84customz28,those came out bitchen......
I painted mine with krylom fusion,there a lot better than before
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Midwest
Car: '82 Recaro T/A, '71 Trans Am
Engine: 305CFI/455HO
Transmission: TH700R4/M22
Axle/Gears: 3.23/3.42
Originally posted by Token
Painting your interior is the dumbest thing you can do. I just got into a huge argument the other day about it.
Painting your interior is the dumbest thing you can do. I just got into a huge argument the other day about it.
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From: San Diego
Car: 1985 Trans Am
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700R4
I painted mine, and wasn't happy with how easily the stuff will come off. I did 3 coats of Rustoleum Paint for Plastic on top of Primer for Plastic, and it just didn't work out. They looked great, but it scratched off with a little bit of effort. My suggestion: buy a new set from the junkyard. I did. It'll run you like $40 for a full set.
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Car: 1987 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700r4
first off if your selling the car WHY are you bothering doing extra work to it?
and second, if i were a prospective buyer and i was lookin at a car with a painted out interior i would probably walk away based on that alone.
but to give some advise, try laquer thinner, and mabie acitone (but that might damage the plastic) or go to a yard and replace the fubared pannels.
and second, if i were a prospective buyer and i was lookin at a car with a painted out interior i would probably walk away based on that alone.
but to give some advise, try laquer thinner, and mabie acitone (but that might damage the plastic) or go to a yard and replace the fubared pannels.
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by Dens71TA
The FACTORY has been painting and dying interior parts for decades! If its done right it won't come off. All non-Trans Am Firebirds with color matching dashes and consoles have painted plastic. You can take your finger nail to it and it won't come off. Same goes for the dash boards on 88-95 Chebbie and GMC full size trucks. Dash is molded in black and painted. Hell, even steering wheels have been painted and it takes a good 100,000 miles before it even starts to wear off.
The FACTORY has been painting and dying interior parts for decades! If its done right it won't come off. All non-Trans Am Firebirds with color matching dashes and consoles have painted plastic. You can take your finger nail to it and it won't come off. Same goes for the dash boards on 88-95 Chebbie and GMC full size trucks. Dash is molded in black and painted. Hell, even steering wheels have been painted and it takes a good 100,000 miles before it even starts to wear off.
Originally posted by Token
Paint out of a rattle can is FAR different from paint out of a gun. The EPA prohibits isocyanates in shaker cans, and you have to have a proper ventilation system required by law. Anything without the isocyanate-based hardener will simply flake off, has a terrible adhesion, and will turn to a sticky goo with heat. ASK ME HOW I KNOW. it doesn't matter how it's prepped... it won't last. ESPECIALLY if you touch it. The oils from your skin will cause it to break down and become a big sticky mess. And don't even think about using Armor All on it...
Paint out of a rattle can is FAR different from paint out of a gun. The EPA prohibits isocyanates in shaker cans, and you have to have a proper ventilation system required by law. Anything without the isocyanate-based hardener will simply flake off, has a terrible adhesion, and will turn to a sticky goo with heat. ASK ME HOW I KNOW. it doesn't matter how it's prepped... it won't last. ESPECIALLY if you touch it. The oils from your skin will cause it to break down and become a big sticky mess. And don't even think about using Armor All on it...
edited to be more user-friendly
Last edited by Token; Jan 16, 2005 at 10:34 PM.
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From: Arcadia ,Ca
Car: 82 firebird s/e 83 Trans Am
Engine: 5.0L 305ci 4b carb.....CFI
Transmission: TH200C....700R4
I admit,painting the plastic isnt the way to go,I did it because what was there before was such an eyesore.I wouldnt settle for any color other than dark blue or black,but all ive seen at the yards are ,tans and worse black and blues.One of these days ill get lucky and find a good set of the color I like.I guess I could buy them somewhere else but Im trying to buy more important things for my car right now.........
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From: Chesterfield, Indiana
Car: 1991 Z28 Camaro
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: Jasper 700R4 Stage II
Axle/Gears: 3.23 For Now
Token, what the hell is your problem?
These members can do whatever they want to their vehicles. If something fails, it's their fault, and their money that goes down the drain...just one of those "live and learn" things. I painted my interior parts out of a rattle can using "Dupli-Color Textured Metallic Graphite" with a coat of Flat Clear Lacquer and I have had no problems at all. My car is for show purposes only and my plastic pieces are never touched, BUT, if they were touched alot, I could see how it would be possible how the paint could flake off and or rub off, but until then, all of your nonsense has no effect on me and probably know one else. Not trying to be an a** or anything, but people are going to do what they want..whether it turns out successfull or not.
These members can do whatever they want to their vehicles. If something fails, it's their fault, and their money that goes down the drain...just one of those "live and learn" things. I painted my interior parts out of a rattle can using "Dupli-Color Textured Metallic Graphite" with a coat of Flat Clear Lacquer and I have had no problems at all. My car is for show purposes only and my plastic pieces are never touched, BUT, if they were touched alot, I could see how it would be possible how the paint could flake off and or rub off, but until then, all of your nonsense has no effect on me and probably know one else. Not trying to be an a** or anything, but people are going to do what they want..whether it turns out successfull or not.
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by 84customZ28
Token, what the hell is your problem?
Token, what the hell is your problem?
I'm also not trying to be a jerk... but trying to point out the facts which keep getting overlooked. Nature of habit, sorry.
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by 84customZ28
Token, what the hell is your problem?
These members can do whatever they want to their vehicles. If something fails, it's their fault, and their money that goes down the drain...just one of those "live and learn" things. I painted my interior parts out of a rattle can using "Dupli-Color Textured Metallic Graphite" with a coat of Flat Clear Lacquer and I have had no problems at all. My car is for show purposes only and my plastic pieces are never touched, BUT, if they were touched alot, I could see how it would be possible how the paint could flake off and or rub off, but until then, all of your nonsense has no effect on me and probably know one else. Not trying to be an a** or anything, but people are going to do what they want..whether it turns out successfull or not.
Token, what the hell is your problem?
These members can do whatever they want to their vehicles. If something fails, it's their fault, and their money that goes down the drain...just one of those "live and learn" things. I painted my interior parts out of a rattle can using "Dupli-Color Textured Metallic Graphite" with a coat of Flat Clear Lacquer and I have had no problems at all. My car is for show purposes only and my plastic pieces are never touched, BUT, if they were touched alot, I could see how it would be possible how the paint could flake off and or rub off, but until then, all of your nonsense has no effect on me and probably know one else. Not trying to be an a** or anything, but people are going to do what they want..whether it turns out successfull or not.
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From: Chesterfield, Indiana
Car: 1991 Z28 Camaro
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: Jasper 700R4 Stage II
Axle/Gears: 3.23 For Now
No problem man..I'm not trying to make enemies or anything.
so, are you talking about painting a dash pad or something? Because I would agree with that. I couldn't see any spray paint sticking to a dash pad unless it was some type or dye. As far as certain interior plastics...as long as it's prepped right, and it isn't touched or moved much...then there should not be a problem at all.
Well...hot summer days are no problem with my finish at all. And talking about grubby hands? I posted that my car is a show car...and noone has ever sat in my car other than me and my g/f. Plus...your talking about losing shine? As stated before, I sprayed a Clear Coat of Flat Lacquer...so it won't shine. Do you mind sharing what type of spray paint you chose as your finish? Did you use a cheap dollar can or something? Because the product I use is almost 10 bucks a can....
no over-the-counter solution to dash painting
but after a sticky hot summer or after you have friends put their grubby hands on it, don't cry about it losing its shine. until then, enjoy it.
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
well I have used two different products... the Duplicolor plastic one, and the Krylon Fusion. Both are terrible products for interior automotive use. I degreased and cleaned the pieces, then sprayed a few coats. I still got a lot of fish-eye (more so with the less expensive duplicolor crap) but I sanded it out. I finished it off with the respected clearcoats. The duplicolor didn't ever melt, but the Krylon did, causing a BIG STICKY MESS on my console lid, ruining a shirt I had.
The only true way to do it is to shoot it with a spray gun, using a hardener. And all hardeners contain isocyanates, which are strictly regulated hazardous materials.
The only true way to do it is to shoot it with a spray gun, using a hardener. And all hardeners contain isocyanates, which are strictly regulated hazardous materials.
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From: Chesterfield, Indiana
Car: 1991 Z28 Camaro
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: Jasper 700R4 Stage II
Axle/Gears: 3.23 For Now
causing a BIG STICKY MESS on my console lid
Exactly, I would NEVER spray paint anything that has a vinyl surface, nothing still stick to vinyl unless it's dye...that's pretty much common sense. Even if you sprayed out of a gun with hardner in it...it still wouldn't turn out right on vinyl...no matter how it's prepped. Vinyl isn't ment to be painted...only dyed or re-covered...
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by 84customZ28
Exactly, I would NEVER spray paint anything that has a vinyl surface, nothing still stick to vinyl unless it's dye...that's pretty much common sense. Even if you sprayed out of a gun with hardner in it...it still wouldn't turn out right on vinyl...no matter how it's prepped. Vinyl isn't ment to be painted...only dyed or re-covered...
Exactly, I would NEVER spray paint anything that has a vinyl surface, nothing still stick to vinyl unless it's dye...that's pretty much common sense. Even if you sprayed out of a gun with hardner in it...it still wouldn't turn out right on vinyl...no matter how it's prepped. Vinyl isn't ment to be painted...only dyed or re-covered...
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From: Chesterfield, Indiana
Car: 1991 Z28 Camaro
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: Jasper 700R4 Stage II
Axle/Gears: 3.23 For Now
Originally posted by Token
but the same thing happened to the shift t-handle ****, and the door handle moudlings.
but the same thing happened to the shift t-handle ****, and the door handle moudlings.
The finish will come off of just about anything is the finish is touched, rubbed, or moved constanly.
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From: allen,tx
Car: 1985 Iroc-Z
Engine: 305
Transmission: t-5
I painted the door panels of my truck with cheap walmart raddle can it lasted for a few years before it started to fade. 87 cent paint no primer no prep work nothing. And it never rubbed off or chipped either.
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From: South Florida
Engine: 3.8L - 5.8L 351W
Well my interior is two tone, and I'm not paying anything big, just small plastic accents. The job I did now matches very nicely, I've asked people what they think and they answered with something along the lines of "You painted that? I thought that was factory, cool"
The only reason I want to rub it all off is because It's not as perfect as I want it to be, and the paint I used gets the exact thing that Token explained, it's very soft and comes off with a finger nail.
I repainted these parts because theyre pretty darn old and looked hiddeous, I couldn't stand it anymore, the only problem is the clear coating I put wasnt strong enough to protect it at all.
Maybe theres a stronger clearcoat I can use that I don't know about?
The only reason I want to rub it all off is because It's not as perfect as I want it to be, and the paint I used gets the exact thing that Token explained, it's very soft and comes off with a finger nail.
I repainted these parts because theyre pretty darn old and looked hiddeous, I couldn't stand it anymore, the only problem is the clear coating I put wasnt strong enough to protect it at all.
Maybe theres a stronger clearcoat I can use that I don't know about?
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From: Queens, NY
Car: 87 IROC Z28
Engine: Custom Forged 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9" 4:11's Detroit Locker
What about using vunyl dye i have at my body shop that is specially mixed to bond with the material and doesnt require a clear coat over it, you think that will work anyone, ideas...lol
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From: IL
Car: 91RS_92Z28
Engine: 5.0_5.7
Transmission: WCT5_WCT5
Axle/Gears: 3.08_3.42
The only real problem I have is in the cleaning/detailing of the painted/dyed plastics.
Scuff marks are much harder to deal with. You can't use too much elbow grease.
84customZ28's interior shot shows how awesome it can look though. Looks better than new.
Scuff marks are much harder to deal with. You can't use too much elbow grease.
84customZ28's interior shot shows how awesome it can look though. Looks better than new.
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From: Chesterfield, Indiana
Car: 1991 Z28 Camaro
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: Jasper 700R4 Stage II
Axle/Gears: 3.23 For Now
thanks srdynamics1
It also matters what type of finish your going for too. The spray I used was a textured spray, then coated with a flat lacquer clear...which really improved the quality of the finish
It also matters what type of finish your going for too. The spray I used was a textured spray, then coated with a flat lacquer clear...which really improved the quality of the finish
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Posts: 690
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From: Minneapolis, MN
Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: ZZ4 350
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt w/3.73
Well, I'm not here to get into a pissin' match so I'll just relate my experience with panel painting.
My 1989 RS looked sad inside so I decided to use the Krylon fusion flat-black on the hard plastic surfaces (not the armrests or console lid). I scuffed the plastics with scotchbrite pads soaked with "Total Prep" and wiped them down before painting. I didn't use a primer, just shot directly on the panels in 3 light coats and allowed to dry for 48 hours. One panel got a run in a corner so I stripped it with Eazy-Off (original), which did a perfect job, re-prepped, and shot it again. This was all done well over a year ago, I live in Florida, it still looks factory perfect, and I'm very pleased with the results. I'd say try it!
My 1989 RS looked sad inside so I decided to use the Krylon fusion flat-black on the hard plastic surfaces (not the armrests or console lid). I scuffed the plastics with scotchbrite pads soaked with "Total Prep" and wiped them down before painting. I didn't use a primer, just shot directly on the panels in 3 light coats and allowed to dry for 48 hours. One panel got a run in a corner so I stripped it with Eazy-Off (original), which did a perfect job, re-prepped, and shot it again. This was all done well over a year ago, I live in Florida, it still looks factory perfect, and I'm very pleased with the results. I'd say try it!
Last edited by MurcoRS; Jan 18, 2005 at 10:39 PM.
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From: South Bend, Indiana
Car: 1986 z28 and 1997 Disco
Engine: Lg4 305
Well honestly I just picked up a few cans of satin and a few cans of gloss Krylon Fusion for 6 bucks a can (cant remember exactly). Almost everyone I've talked to says the same thing and have had the same results. Scuff it up very lightly with something like a scotch pad, clean it with something mild that wont mess with the plastic, and some pretty light coats.
I'm going to do it tommorow and I'll take clear pictures step by step and give an honest opinion when Im done. Right now I have scuffed gray panels that look like crap so I think this is my best option. Token, I know where pissin you off but dont you think its possible that you did something wrong, I have met many people that have had perfect long term results with Krylon Fusion.
I'm going to do it tommorow and I'll take clear pictures step by step and give an honest opinion when Im done. Right now I have scuffed gray panels that look like crap so I think this is my best option. Token, I know where pissin you off but dont you think its possible that you did something wrong, I have met many people that have had perfect long term results with Krylon Fusion.
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From: Lowell, MA
Car: 89 Camaro RS
Engine: sbc 400
Transmission: th350
i used vinyl die in a can on my center console and its much better looking than it was before. i just wanted to make it look black again and i didnt want to use paint because it may chip. 2-3 coats of the dye and it looks like it did from the factory, without any worries of chipping, flaking, or coming off on my arm.
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From: Chesterfield, Indiana
Car: 1991 Z28 Camaro
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: Jasper 700R4 Stage II
Axle/Gears: 3.23 For Now
Originally posted by Spdfrk1990
84custom what did you use to paint yours i forget.
84custom what did you use to paint yours i forget.
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From: Upsate NY
Car: 1984 Z28 camaro HO Gun metal Gray
Engine: 305,L69 H.O. rebuilt
Transmission: 700R4
I did try to paint and extra set of kick panels I have. I use a platic paint not named any where above. I did not scuff but I did prep with a soft cleaner. I applyed 4 or 5 light coats and let dry for 5 or 6 days. I then I went over that paint with 3 or 4 coats of clear coat. When I got done they looke better than new and i bent the platstic adn they peant held and banged on it and it held and then i but my finger nail to it and it chipped like a china plate being tossed across the room. I could not believe it i did everything to it but it could not take the scrape. Back to the drawing board for me. I did not use the fusion or the dulpi platic paint. I used a napa brand crap. i am going to strip and try again. I suggest to any one thinkin of it to get and extra piece of plastic and try to paint it untill you find something that works. I am having my car paited soon adn i asked my painter and he said he has some paint the will bond with the plastic and will not come off no matter what you do to it. no chemical not scratching nothing will touch it. He said he would do it for me for about 200 don't knowif that is a deal or not.
Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 400
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From: South Bend, Indiana
Car: 1986 z28 and 1997 Disco
Engine: Lg4 305
I am in the process of test painting the back side of one of my panels right now and theres barely a difference between the satin and gloss black suprisingly but the satin does look better. Now I just have to give it a while to try and see how it does.
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