I just got back with a price quote from Maaco fort mt 88 GTA t tops. Yes I read the posts and unfortunatly thats all I have money for

So, I can get there best job "signature" for $600 (reg.$800). But the body labor came to $736.

Why?

1) Well I was going to remove the spoiler and ofcourse I will have holes left in the trunk. So to have them weld it up and sand they want $276

2) Align my doors was $82 but I think it is safer to do it at a good body shop and pay $100 (quoted)

3) I have gotten cracks develop on the left pillar behind drivers window. Maybe from past collision? So they want to sand it down do something and charge about $250\

4) Back bumper needs good sanding because of chips

I am sure I can get th price down allot by doing things alone. Any recomendations on what and the level of dificulty to do on my own.

Note: I live in a trailer court and I dont have the car in a garage. So it cant be anything extreme that will put paint dust everywere...

Tips apreciated

Thanks

 

1) Well I was going to remove the spoiler and ofcourse I will have holes left in the trunk. So to have them weld it up and sand they want $276

Find a local welder, they would probally weld it up for only 50 bux or less. Then go buy yourself some bondo and give it a nice skim coat. Bondo work is easy and you could easily do it yourself.

2) Align my doors was $82 but I think it is safer to do it at a good body shop and pay $100 (quoted)

If you don't have a partner, just pay for the shop to do it. The doors are somewhat heavy and time consuming for the first time.

3) I have gotten cracks develop on the left pillar behind drivers window. Maybe from past collision? So they want to sand it down do something and charge about $250\

How long are the cracks. If they are less then an inch, they are just stress cracks. Very common in our cars. Do not pay maaco 250 to fix it. They will more then likely just bondo it in. If you bondo this, the crack will just reappear. So again, have a local welder take a look. But if the crack is only a centimeter or two, I would just leave it since this is probally not a show car.

4) Back bumper needs good sanding because of chips

That is something you could easily do yourslef. Just grab some 220 (180 if carefull) grit sandpaper and go at it. Make shure you use a sanding block though.

If you are going to do some of the bondo work outside, make shure its not freezing out. The back of the can should say what temperature you can apply it in.


Hope this helps a little. Remember, body work is not hard, just very time consuming.

 

The cracks in the rear pillar is not from an accident, but from the body flexing. If they just bondo them, they will reappear. To keep the car from flexing, invest in a good set of sub frame connectors (before you have the car painted). If you get the bolt on type, make sure they also weld them.

 

Thanks guys.

I can get the rear spoiler holes welded for 15 dollars. But I will have to sand it down. I was told it is harder than the lid itself. So when you say Bondo.. do you meany I should have him weld a metal piece from below the lid and then put bond on top and sand it down to a smooth surface?

The cracks are some less than an inch but I have one running about 3 inches in the center. I was told it must have been plastered at some point.... I think it is very possible as I am sure the whole thing was repainted and driver door changed. Maaco and local both said they would have to dig it all out and redo it. How would you go about fixing it. Sand it down good and put something on and just paint over? crack will come back probably...

Thanks,

Sam

 

Do you have any pictures of this? Place a magnet over the spot and see if it sticks. It now sounds like you have old bondo underneath that may have been applied too thick. If this is the case, you are going to have to grind all the old bondo out till your back to good clean metal. If there is a deep dent, then work it out (pull it out, bang it out) the best you can and then use bondo for the final smooth.

 

Gut the interior and fix the sail panels properly, or your wasting your time.

I would add a reinforcing plate on the bottom of the roof and than weld the crack from the top.

I have seen merely welding the crack flex and break again down the line.

We did it the above way on a car that has a best 60ft in the 1.5x range.

Still holding.

later
Jeremy

 

bet that car also has SFC's that is what will stop it not just a plate.

 

The crack in the panel turned out to be bondo and the small cracks were stress cracks... I got that taken for at a body shop for $80. However he said he wished he charged more because it definetly took longer than he expected

I sanded the car down with a dual action rotary sander... so it was all matt....

I turned the car over for a signature paint job (color + clear coat). and they will even prime it ... fix a dent and a crack in the front nose tip.... resurface the two outer spoiler bolt holes that got welded on the weekend.

They will paint the foot panel below the door (need to open door to see it), and the inside section that you see when you open the hatch.

Price $850

Also, to make sure they put even more work into it.... I mentioned that 2 friends are very interested in getting their car painted but have read neg. and pos. online so I will have to prove them wrong. So now they will put extra effort to ensure 2 new sales that are not real to star with


Same shop diff city wanted 1100 for signature job. and that is with out additional labour and extra paining such as under hatch...

post piucs when done.

 

No one seems to care but I will bragg moe about it

Car is still in the shop, been there since the 20th. everyday they want an extra day. and they say it will look great. maybe they are doing an extraordinarie good job because of what i told them ( read earlier post)

I got a spoiler from a member here, but in transit the corner snapped off. To fix was 200 dollars so I payed 10 dollars for the fiberglass kit and spent the day making it look right. Success!

they will paint that too and they preped and primed it at no extra cost

Also, I think that spoiler will look good on the trans am. it is just as wide as the aero wing, longer and has the same third brake light. and it ways less.

/Sam

 

what spoiler are u talkin about. the stock fiberglass on the 91-92s? if so PM me info about that repair kit u used. i had a spoiler sent to me but came damaged. both tips broken off. everything else is perfect.

and be sure to post pics when u get it back. i plan on maaco-ing mine as soon as i have more money saved.

 

I believe it is from a 86-87 firebird, and it was fiberglass.

I just bought the fiberglass kit that is sold in many hardware stores and walmart. then I applied and sanded them down to get the shape i disired.


You will also need to prime to fill the scratches from sanding and also resand...


It all depends on the size of the damage though..

 

subscribing, want to see pics when done.

 

car is complete and i will post pics soon, once i get it waxed. I have to give it about 30 days before waxing.

It is definetly MUCh better looking than earlier. Problem before was that the paint was pale and when i wax it would be bright but just for a day or two...

Cant wait to give it a good wax.

Later,

Sam

 

Pictures taken today after a wash. I have not waxed the car so it should be fairly shiny with a layer of wax Also, a pic of seats i got on ebay. I wish they were wider at the shoulders. Or that i was smaller


You can find them on http://www.bigwinscasino.com/stuff/

Sam

 

Nice job on your car!