Hey guys, I know I could probably search, but I haven't posted in a long time (I think years).

I've decided to start working on my 3rd gen again. I have to replace the drivers-side quarter panel (low speed collision with a truck). For those that know body work really well, what type of welder should I use? I was thinking of getting a wire-fed type welder.

Thanks for the info

 

For the average hobbist, wire feed flux core is probably the easiest-to-cost ratio to learn/use (if you're buying a new welder for this job) IMO.
MIG will do the same just.. make cleaner welds.
Once you have drilled all the spot welds from the old panel to remove it, line up the new panel.
Clamp in place.
Drill holes in the new panel to match the existing (from removing the old).
Plug weld.
Grind smooth.
Etch, cold galv. or, galvaprime bare steel repair areas.
Bodywork per norm to finish.
Crack open beverage of chioce.
Stand back and admire your handywork.


Just my opinion though..

 

I would use mig with co2 argon mix (100% argon works just as well on sheet metal, but costs more)

I'm guessing you aren't using full quarters, probably just skins, in which case you are going to have to hang the quarter panel over top of the old one, get a buddy to hold it with you or use some screws to hold it up, (I reccomend the buddy method) and then draw yer line for the top. Then instead of cutting on your top line and doing a butt weld, its easier to draw a line 1/2 inch below the line you drew tracing your quarter panel. Then using a crimper that runs off an air compresser, you crimp along your top line. The front of your origional quarter panel (back of the door) needs to be cut along the outer bend. Do the same for by your fuel filler. The reason for doing the crimping and leaving a little bit of overlap is to prevent warpage. Tack your panel in place to make sure the fit is good. Next weld along your crimped line, you want to do what is called drill and fill (drill a 1/4 inch hole through the outer panel and use it to weld the panel to the panel behind). Every time you do a weld, drill and fill or not make sure the welds are tight. After you drill and fill you can go along and do the seem, welding every inch or 2 and then you can repeat the process until the entire thing is filled. This is to keep the heat down and prevent warpage.

There is alot more to doing this then i have present and then you may think. I'm not trying to discourage you, and I know you didn't ask for an entire rundown on the whole process, but I figured I should let you know some of this stuff just in case you thought this was going to be really simple. I did both the quarter panels on my camaro, but I had an older buddy working with me and teaching me how for the first one, and the second on he just watched me to make sure I didn't screw it up. I guess the real test of my knowledge will be when I do the quarters on my Chevelle.

Anyhow, if you need more help look around the net and feel free to PM me, I have some pictures of how where I cut my quarters out and the end result.

 

I agree with the mig and the mixed gas, but have to disagree with the overlap method. This will not give you a straight like and you will spend way too much time trying to get the body straight. I would do a butt joint and make sure to take your time and don't put too much heat in one spot.

 

I'm just telling the way I did it. Mine actually came out very straight on both sides, plus due to more metal along the seam it didn't warp noticably. Then again I was very careful to get the seam tight. I guess it depends on personal choice and the way you are taught. Another thing about the overlap is once your quarter panel is in you want to make sure you seal up the backside really well.

 

Thanks for all the input guys. I thought I'd post some pictures of what I have to work with:

 

I don't know you nessicarily need to replace that quarter panel. I mean it is most likely to get you the best result, however you might be able to get away with pulling it out and using a hammer and a dolly. Maybe even cutting out a small chunk of it. However since I'm going by a picture you might want to take it by a body shop and see what they think.

 

That can be strighten. Theres no way I would cut up that car for that. U will have more filler on the car if u replace the 1/4.

Get a screw dent puller(or elec stud gun better but cost more) drill some 1/8 holes screw the dent puller in and pull the dent out. Weld the holes up sand ,than fill with filler.
O and for the welder I use a lincon 135 with argon co mix..

 

Awesome, thanks for the response guys. I'm not too much of a body guy and this will be my first forray into this sort of thing. I'll see if I can pound it out, and if everything goes bad, well I guess I can always cut the part out

 

I don't think u will be able to pound it out. Cuz the outer wheel house is there. And i think there like 1 or 2 inch between that and the 1/4

 

You definately wont be able to pound that out. you may see if a body shop will just pull the dent for you if you aren't comfortable ith it. There is a body line there that you need to be careful of as wel. These have a tendency to be a PITA

 

You could probably get alot of that with a slide hammer.

 

I take my previous statement back, the only real way to make that good with 2 body lines and the flare is a new quarter, and for 78 dollars they will be cheaper than what body shop would charge to try to pull that thing into something close to what it was.

 

So u think it would be better to put a 1/4 on than fix a dent that would take a 1 or 2 (at most) to fix.

 

what do you mean by this?
What I am trying to say is that it would take an experienced body guy to fix this and make it look right. If you have access to a buddies welder then go for the quarter replacement. If not give it a shot with the slide hammer. It will be twice the work though.

 

Well it would take me 1 or 2 hours to fix that.

But ok i see were u are coming from strigten metal is something u can't learn over night. hell took me 10 years and there still some i can't do. But learning how to weld ( good welds) that will not break takes time to learn to. And with putting on a new 1/4 u would have just as much or more filler on it.

So i still think it would be faster and easier to fix that one.

 

My quarter was crushed in in this area (not quite as bad though) and before I discovered the rust I had it repaired and smoothed out. Body lines aren't so bad to keep and its worth a shot at least for the experiance.