My 91 z has developed cracks on both sides near the top of the hatch... almost like the car can't take the stress of the hatch... anyone ever seen this

 

Nearly everyone (I assume you're talking about cracks directly behind the drip rails). SFC's will eliminate the uni-body twisting that generates the cracks.

JamesC

 

SFC's should cure the problem. I found that out after i had the cracks welded up and the car painted. took it out for a few quick rides and the cracks showed back up. i wish i knew about hte sfc in the start.!!!

 

Curious, is your car t-top or not? I have an 87 350TPI with t-tops, it's got 130k on it and no SFC's. It also has no cracks. And colorado roads are absolutely horrible. I know they beefed up the convertible cars, but i always heard it was the t-top cars that had the worst problem. True? or False?

 

False. When the body of the car twists, the t-tops are able to move around too. This will take pressure from the sides of the roof. You probably read that they twist more, which is also true because there isn't any metal to try and force the body to stay straight.

 

mine is a hardtop... and the few people I have spoken with say that the hardtop cars actually tend to crack a little more... strange because you would think thee would be more structural integrity but ....

 

Yep, sub frame connectors will do the trick. Grab a set from Spohn and then weld up the cracks in your roof.

 

what makes the spohn ones better than the others... this is the first time I will be dealing with this so just wondering why they are better

 

I prefer them to the other bolt-in and/or boxy SFC's, and they seem to tuck in and stay out of the way better than the others. I made my own (I have the tools) but if I didn't I would have bought Spohn's.

Edit: Here's a good read: Why Spohn SFC's are best

 

thanks... I'll check them out. I am getting the crack fixed and painted next Tuesday so I guess I should find some before hand,,, these spohns are nicer looking than the others that's for sure