I did some searching, but really didn't get the answers I was looking for. The underside of my RS is rusting pretty bad to the point where I've got a hole on the drivers side started. So before I go buying Por-15 and doing the undercarriage I've got a few q's:

How much should I buy to do the whole underside and a few pieces in the wheel wells? Im thinking about a quart or two.

What about surface prep? The whole undercarriage is rust and rust flakes. Should I still use the Marine Clean and Metal-Ready? Im buying it anyways to do the wheel well areas, but Im not sure I need it underneath.

I heard this stuff is really thick. Should I worry about it dripping on me when Im laying on my back brushing it on?

Thanks in advance guys.

 

yes, I would worry about it getting on you. once it gets on you, it DOSENT come off for like a month.

 

Well I plan on wearing long sleeves and eye and head protection along with gloves. Thanks for the heads up though.

 

more like a week max. If it drips on you, it'll come off cause it'll peel off once it dries. But if you smear it like when you try to wipe it off your habnds......don't plan on going out on any dates

 

That stuff is tough as nails, and dont plan on sanding it for a topcoat etc. it takes all day to sand! it dries hard.

 

You really should prep the floor pans with the Marine Clean and Metal Ready, do it right the first time and you won't have to do it a second time. And a little bit of POR-15 goes a very long way. So 2 quarts should be enough. Also, you can spray it on, if you have the means.

 

If you're not as concerned about appearance, and only want performance, you can check into this:

Paint Over Rust With Chassis Saver

 

1 quart will do 100sq ft and a pint will do 50sq ft and a 4oz can will do 12sq ft so you can figure out what you might need fairly easily. Like ScottyRS said, definitely do the marine clean and metal ready otherwise you are wasting you efforts. It will look like it went on fine but it will come off with any degree of stress and rust WILL come back. I did some trials and found this out....one was on seat tracks. They were not greasy so I wire brushed off the loose stuff and put 2 coats on. With out even being exposed to water (just moisture in the air), small brown (rust) spots started appearing after a while and although it seemed very tough, when tightening down the track bolts, it tore the por15 right off. You need the metal ready for proper adhesion, not to mention it will get rid of the rust if you soak the part long enough. The other trial was on struts and springs on the daily driver. It held up pretty good but after the first winter and especially the second you could see rust coming through.

Best advice....follow their instructions to a "T", including time between coats. That is verycritical too for proper adhesion and curing.

 

Yeah, make sure to follow the instructions to the T.

And yes... if you get it on you, wipe it off immediately... otherwise youll be sorry. I got some on my face and I didnt realize it till it was dry... needless to say, I did get it off, but it took some serious scrubbing.

You essentially have to wear that skin off to get rid of the POR15.

 

i would strongly recommend wearing rubber gloves. usually when you try to wipe it off it just smears too.

 

When that stuff gets on you, it's a nightmare! I wore rubber gloves - long sleep shirt and still managed to get smeared. My advice is to spray it on.

 

dont spray it if you dont have to, even doing it out side you can and will get very very sick, unless you use one of those systems that give you fresh air, 2 of my coworkers had to go to the ER when they sprayed a frame outside, it messed them up really bad, it even says to use that system in the directions. so brush it on if you can