I just bought a red 91 RS as my ID might lead u to believe, the clear coat is horrible and it has a spot of rust on the door and some surface rust around the rearwheel arches. a friend of mine who did bodywork years ago was quoting me in the neighborhood of a grand to fix it, that includes the friend discount. I know it is impossible to quote with out seeing the car and because the car is in storage for the winter I cannot get a good picture but does this seam right. Assume the clear coat is destroyed, both rearwheel arches are rusty just on the part that rolls in and a little on the outside of the body and the spot on the door is about an inch and half in dia. just ball park estimates on what that should be to fix. oh and he kept on talking about PPG clear and paint.

 

sounds decent to me . painting is not just shooting paint . prep. is the most important part of a paint job . help your friend by doing grunt work on prep and you will understand . good luck .

 

I just ask because I have another car that has the infamous Maco paint job, but asides from being a single stage paint it isn't a bad looking finish, I have the receipt and it cost just under a grand too,

 

1 grand is extremely cheap. I doubt he would use PPG paint and clear though. PPG **** is crazy through the roof. There are better products for the price of DBC and especially DBU, but that's just me. I used to be die hard PPG but their paint has pissed me off for a while now and I moved on to much better european paints, sorry but they are just better.

shopline might be used for that kinda cost, but shopline stuff is ****. their paints look shitty and their clears dont last.

I would buy your own primer, paint, and clear to make sure you get what you want on your car.

cliffs notes: 1 grand is extremely cheap considering DBU paint runs 300$ a gallon at least, and clear is high too.

 

maybe i didnt word it right, he is respraying the clear and fixing minor rust, not a complete repaint

 

oh... so fix rust and paint both quarterpanels, and a door. actually thats a lil high if you ask me. it's actually more of like a 600$ job or so. maybe 700$ considering red is expensive. I'd look around.

 

So is he going to reclear the whole car, or just the areas that have to be painted?

 

whole car, but for every hour he puts in i'm putting one in, I just don't have spray gun skills. But its not like i drop the car off and I pick it up a couple days later.

 

every hour you put into prep. for the paint will give you appreciation of the final result . learn , learn , soon you will be able to try it yourself . good luck young man .

 

Pardon me while I pop in on this thread but, I'm a learning Ole' man and I'm hoping to get some wise advice here. Is there any hope for a car that is shedding it's clear coat without totally repainting the car?

I mean you can't just sand off the clear coat and reapply it can you? I would think that would mess up the paint and therefore you would have to repaint.

 

no, once the clear peals, it had to be sanded down, feather the edges and prime it, then sand the primer down, and then base it with color and clear it...no other way around it if you want to do it right...i do it everyday...trust me.

 

For the rust, you can just foam it in and sand. That saves alot of time.

 

that grand price does not seem correct....Why don't you take your time and go to these forums and read and ask questions and do your own repair and then find someone to shoot the clear after you scuff the entire car with 600 paper and tape and get ready.....go here www.autobodystore.com to those forums all great guys and gals with lots of helpful info and tips for you...I did all my own and was glad I did........