Do you have pics of your 3rd gen and are they dual coloured?I want to see pics of your rides here.
I am looking for some inspiration here

 

mine is two tone, is that what you are looking for? I could post a pic but you can see multiple pics if you look at the link in my signiture.

 

I love that color scheme man.. great job.

 

I have a factory gold and black 2 tone...

 

Yes!!thats what I am looking for..

 

Nice car

 

thank you...I hope to get it repainted and freshend up soon...

 

here is mine. White with black stripes with black body kit.

 

i dont mean this in a bad way at all but with the white grill and how your car shines it almost looks like a match-box or hot-wheels. lol I like it a lot but think it would look better with a billet grill since the mesh in your hood is metal. definatly a cool looking car over all!!

 

thank u i have been looking at billet grills still debating. Also the mesh in the hood is black plastic.

 

That car would be sick if it had black headlight pockets, black Vette wheels, and a black camaro decal or something to break up the white on the side.

 

My car is two tone stock also. Here are some pictures...


Here she is stock looking

 

I Love white cars.. I am in the progress of finding out what colour to paint my car,and I am thinking of white from the bottom and almost up to the windows then a red pinstripe and the rest of the car black.maybe something like "Irockid86" have done.I was also thinking that maybe only the roof should be black,like I have seen on some 4thgen cars...

 

thank u, it is still in the work. i still need to find rims for it.

 

Anybody have Black camaro with white stripes? I am seriously considering painting my 91 RS this. I was thinking full length except for rear bumper and possibly rear deck, but definatly have them on the high rise. Obviously with the '91 z28 blistered hood. What do you guys think? Im sure there is a thread somewhere in this section with this information but I havent found it.

 

Basically original colors, just redone.

 

wow, those colors actaully look really good together!

anyone have any red firebirds with gray or black gfx?

 

Hope this will give you an idea, Although it is blue pearl within a black base. It really looks black, even in full sun except for the highlights.

 

Yeah thats looks sweet man, black third gens look pretty badd a**, mind sharing what you payed for the paint job(If you didn't do it yourself) and what it included, i know the prices will vary between locations. I was wanting to take off and put on all the weatherstrip, GFX, lights, door handles etc. myself. Painted black with white stripes on the body and paint in the door jams, no engine bay. Ill buy the bc, cc myself, whats a fair price for the labour? or approximalty how many bodyshop hours would this take? Not much bodywork, a few minor quarterpanel dings, but want it done right (all the paint stripped off), something that will definatly last. I was hoping about $2500 - $3000, without paint of course.

 

kinda dual color....ppg wild fire red, jet black stripe

 

I do lots of paint jobs and custom work. This car took about 2 weeks due to badly damaged hood. Hole in front bumper, and someone painted over the heritage decals with CC. Paint was Dupont from local parts store. BC/CC was around $250 and added pearl was about $60. Total time would have cost around $1500. No it wasn't sanded down to bare metal, That really is expensive due to metal prep, etching primer, primer (filler and sealer coats, after sanding) body work, (black must be near flawless if you want perfection). There are lots of ways to paint your car, and it really depnds on you budget. The paint supplier has several levels of paint availible from budget minded to skys the limit.

If you feel that your car is really decent (I haven't seen it) then I would make a recomondation, Lots of cleaning after complete removal of weatherstripping, etc. and then let the shop handle the body work. I would also use an Acrylic Enamel in Black, a gallon should be enough to do your car, jambs and all, followed up by a couple of coats of Clear. Will produce very deep black and extremly high gloss. This might save you some cash as well. Very durable and will seal very well. Any shop could do this, but couldnt tell you what they will charge.

If you feel confident enough, you could buff it out yourself, saving more cash vs, sweat equity. final assembly would be a breeze, just be careful not to scratch it!

Price range you quoted can be done for less, but shop around!!!

Heres a pic of my shop truck. This is a amythest purple in a charcoal base.

 

Hey bigdave! Nice paint! Wildfire red looks better in real life. Might just be my computer. lol.

 

Originally Black with Silver Ground effects.
I thought it would look better as Black with Corvette Yellow stripes and ground effects.

 

Thanks JWilson for the info on the last post. The reason that i was thinking of getting the body sanded down to bare metal is because the original paint that is on there is now peeling, and am i little concerned with adhesion issues with new paint in the future. What do you think? Should the GFX and spoilers be removed before paint? Also, what were the condition of your GFX before you painted? Mine are separating from the body in places, can this be fixed or should I just scrap them? And lastly I was thinking something a lil nicer than DuPont, but I don't know, whats your experience with different paint companies? Thanks, and sorry for the attempted thread jack.

 

hood is done, almost, it still needs wet sanded and buffed.

 

paint is Martin Senour GM 8555 black (Crossfire), Jeep Grand Cherokee Gold (only available in MS Tec/Base - a MUCH better product). Both are over epoxy primer/surfacer (4 coats and blocksanded smooth). Plastics were wetsanded, sprayed with adhesion promoter (Bulldog), 2 coats of color and 2 coats of clear (both with flex agent added).

heres a tip, when youre buying the reducer to add to your paint, buy the slowest reducer they have...no matter what. I painted my mirrors on a hot day with medium reducer and it just about flashed off when it hit the mirrors. They came out a very weak black color. I painted everything else with a slower reducer and they were a nice deep glossy black and even though there was a reasonable amount of orange peel right out of the gun, most of it settled right out as it cured.
THE best martin senour clear is 15410 or 15420. Its about 100 a gallon with the catalyst, it cures rock hard, buffs like iron and is designed for air drying (instead of a booth/oven) Its probably the nicest budget clear Ive used aside from SPIs High Solids or Euro Clear

 

Ive used PPG, Dupont Hot Hues, Martin Senour, ProSpray and RM Diamont. Preference (in order): RM, Prospray, MS, PPG and Dupont. Substrate of choice? Southern Polyurethanes Inc (available online, check their site. They make the best clears as well) Cheapest place to buy it online is Bakerpbe.com. Im not a jobber for them, Ive just used a lot of different products, from industrial enamels to Glasurit base/clear. I paint in a garage, lined with poly plastic and a couple furnace filters strapped to box fans to exhaust things. SPI makes an EXCEPTIONAL product and the owner Barry stands by it and is a chemist by trade.

I did a quick turnaround on a car, went to maaco and talked to em about using shopline base/clear. I took about 8hrs and disassembled everything I wanted off the car, stripped the car with 80 grit and a 7" electric rotary, taped the windows and interior off, washed it down with cheap lacquer thinner, hauled it over to maaco and they let me wipe it down there, then they primed and painted it for like $800 (10yrs ago). Those guys CAN do decent paintjobs if you want them to, thats all they do is sling paint. If you do all the prep yourself you'll save that 8hrs at maybe 80-100 bucks an hour; and then you can then use your dewalt or milwaukee 7" rotary for the buffing/polishing...you can save a LOT of money.

FWIW: my gallon of M/S base was 250 plus 100 for clear, plus 200 for epoxy primer (if youre going to bare metal and NOT using chem strippers...use the epoxy primer. Its waterproof and an epoxy - etch primer is lacquer based, not a very stable base anymore). Then you have your catalysts and reducers, flex agent, paint gun (Spraygunworld.com has some decent guns for $80), AIr Compressor, water trap, filters,NIOSH respirator (NAPA sells disposable ones), and then any disposal fees.
As you can see, without a 60gal compressor, rotary, and paint gun...its really hard to DIY cheap (unless you love to do it). I use a 10yr old Sharpe Platinum LVLP, a 30yr old 60gal compressor and a lot of elbow grease...and probably 100 bucks in sandpaper, masking paper and painters tape (1/8th, 1/4th and 1"). Sometimes its worth it to pay for someone else to use their tools the first time around.
Something to think about. Sorry this is long, but Ive been there on both sides, sometimes its best to put your money where it will do the most good.

My napa sells random paint leftovers for like 5 bucks a pint...if you want to practice spraying a spare fender or something, do that before you make the huge investment.

~Nate

 

Mine is simlar to Bullydawg's but is a MACCO rendention of my factory paint scheme. I planed on doing the decals again but since my paint is now 8 years old I will wait until I respray it again.

 

Sounds like you want a really nice paint job, so my recommendation is to remove all GFX, weatherstripping, mirrors, front and rear bumpers, anything that will mate together, then clean everything. I mean clean it all inside and out. Even if you use a HVLP gun. This link http://www.mobileworks.com/auto-paint-finishes.html will explain some more details about the different types of paint. House of Kolor, Nason, Dupont Hot hues, etc. Are really pretty close chemically. Nate/Z28 sounds like he's done some painting. MACCO wanted to charge me $1200 for what I could do for $400. Sling paint would be the right word. Overspray will be there too.

As for removal of everything, you will get better adhesion and sealing and less chipping from the edges if you do this. Plus when its time to do some buffing, after wet sanding, everything can be placed somewhere you can reach it without crawling on your knees. Whe attaching back on the car, take your time and even the smallest detail will shine with new paint.

My GFX was peeling from the drivers door, easy fix once off the car. plus got to clean out debris from the last several years. Otherwise the GFX was in great shape. Also painting it sperately was a plus and easy access for full coverage.

Once again, choice of paint is dependant upon what you have to work with. Color my also depend upon who makes that formula or if its custom.
AND if you are choosing a particular brand of paint, PLEASE use all of thier paint from primer, epoxy, base coat, etc. due to thier chemical compatibility. (Tried to use multiple paints with BAD results long ago...)

It's a learning curve, you've got your color in mind, ask more questions, Sweat all the small details, and man it'll show in the end.

 

what rear lip is that?? ^^^

 

 

 

here is one

Attachment 175391

 

Wow thanks man, I will probably start this summer, and ill post pictures.
Thanks

 

I just finished mine. My 6 year old picked the colors, I think he did ok.

 

Here is mine. Black with Silver Stripes. Looks old-school badass

~JAKE

 

I have to say, that is one of the very few sport coupes that i actually like. Good job!

~JAKE

 

Thanks!

 

Here's what i did to try to decide on 2 colors

 

some more

 

a few more
How I did it was Tirerack has a side view pic of Irocs and I used a software to merge the two. I like the silver and Blue the best and the silver red silver on the top color on the sides .

 

now that is clean. black goes with everything.

 

thanks, you should check out my start to finish thread in my sig. good progress and plenty of pics

 

I have found a few pics off of the internet in various places, here are a few.

 

here's a couple more