I've got a '91-92 aero wing with a crack that appears to be about 2 inches long that starts from where it attaches to the decklid. Looking for methods to repair this with the least amount of bodywork possible (if that IS possible).

 

Hey Goose. What's up?

Have you thought about pulling it off and fixing it with some sort of fiberglass filler (if there's such thing)? I don't know much about body work, but I imagine it could be something as simple as that if you were able to egt some of that stuff.

Quick Google search brought up this...
http://automotive.hardwarestore.com/...th-212225.aspx

 

I've got a friend that has a lot of experience working with fiberglass and I was going to ask him next time I saw him but with the spoiler being plastic (I assume) I was considering products geared towards the more flexible type of parts (bumper covers,etc.).

 

You could try bondo. I work on antique radios and when I get one with a busted plastic or bakelite cabinet bondo usually does the trick. The stuff sticks to more stuff than you'd think.
Alex

 

I think you're on the right track. This site has a lot of good how to info.
http://www.urethanesupply.com/

 

The best thing ishttp://indoors.pricegrabber.com/mechanics-tools-tool-sets/3M-Company-Automix-EZ-Sand/m701401536.html.
It is expensive, but it goes a very long way. You mix two tubes of black and white liquids together. just clean the surface, scuff it, and slap it in and together with the chem in between. The stuff will hold anything together, it is structural. I have many times taken it, made a mold out of tape, and reconstructed tabs that hold a bumper on. It flexes better than the panel itself but can hold almost anything together. I use this stuff almost every day, it is the very best stuff I have ever used and I own a body shop. Fiber glass is Mexican body shop crap, no offense to anyone, just it is not a good way to fix anything like this, cheap....but not good. It will just come apart again because of the panel being dissimilar material.

 

Thanks for the 3M info, looks like the right product for the job. Can this stuff be used to fill small openings or possibly rebuild mounting slots where tabs would attach?

 

Yes It can be used to rebuilt tabs or slots. I have used it many times to repair the holding tabs on Headlights and marker lights when they are broken. It dries in about 15 min and is workable, it sands very easy then, after you get it in the shape you want wait another 30 min to an hour and it is just as strong as what it is replacing. It is a little difficult to get it to make a complex shape when it is wet, as it is the consistency of toothpaste when it is wet, but a little forethought will go a long way. It is wonderful stuff.

 

3M site mentions the possible need for a polyolefin adhesion promoter with this product on some plastics. To your knowledge, would I need this also on my '91-92 aerowing?

 

I have never used any adhesion promoter in conjunction with 5895. You should not need anything. Usually I use lacquer thinner to clean the surface, 80-180 grit sandpaper to scuff the surrounding area by about 1/2 inch and apply 5895. You really need to try and get as much 5895 in the crack and behind the panel as possible, just like the plastic you are putting it on the thicker the surface the stronger the repair. The more you get on the back of the panel and in the crack the smaller you can sand the top surface to and therefore the smaller the over all repair will be.

 

I would use fiberglass gel or epoxy. Also to help keep the crack from continuing, drill through both ends of it before you fix it. I would use a small drill like a 1/4". The drilling relieves the stress that's causing the crack.....i spent a great deal of time working on one of those wings last year for my 87.....

 

If you actually fix the crack completely in the first place and not use a product that has a different density and expansion rate, like putting fiber glass on a dissimilar plastic, you will not have any problems, fiber glass is too hard to fix a flexible problem. the only way fiberglass can fix this is by using a ton of glass and reinforcement in the glass to give enough structure to the problem that it can not flex like it was designed. That is like taping 4 toothpicks to one just because you broke one, yeah the broken one isn't broken any more, but it is not a tooth pick any more either. If you use the right kind of flexible epoxy that was designed for fixing this type of repair you will not have 5lb of fiberglass filler, and your repair will be stronger than the rest of the wing, when done right. If you can't figure it out and you are in or around Atlanta GA, PM me I'll fix it for you, this is what I do for a living every day, I own the shop.

 

Sounds just what I need also Crazy, spoiler on my Monte SS is badly cracked. Will this stuff fix bumper covers too? ...I've always used PC-7 epoxy with great luck on rigid parts (and it's cheap), but it gets hard as steel, can be drilled and tapped, but does not allow any flex at all. Thanks!

 

I spoke to my buddy that I mentioned in a previous post and he's familiar with the 3M Automix. He actually used it to rejoin the halves of a Camaro rear bumper cover when he removed a section for his trailer he built (looks like the back half of an RS). He gave it the same high marks you did so I'm pretty sure we can handle it. If all else fails I may take you up on the offer and bring it or ship it down to you.

 

Yes it is what I use any time I have a flexible part that needs to be fixed. Just think about it, the product that does the repair, needs to be the same flex and consistency. The wrong stuff is like trying to add oil to water or an aluminum patch panel on a steal car. It just doesn't make since.