I am restoring my car and have the entire powertrain, axle and exhaust out. I want to clean it and repaint it underneath.

Does anyone have an idea on how/where to hold the car up so its secure and I can still get most of it clean? Its a vert, so I want to be careful holding up behind and in fron of the tires (sag). It will be up for a few months.

 

We don't have a 'vert, but how's this sound--??--

Front--
2 jackstands, 1 under each front shock at the lower conttrol arm

Mid Area--
2 jackstands, 1 under the front subframe on each side, almost at the end of the front subframe

Rear--
2 jackstands, 1 under the rear axel as close to the brakes as possible on each side
????
6 stands spread thru-out the front, mid & rear.

Awhile back in a discussion about how to level a car for subframe connectors, someone had a precise diagram on how to safely level a car,
maybe it was vetruck diagram?? Can't recall ATM!!

( edit )
AWWW CRAP-- I see there's no axel!!

 

Good thoughts. I did consider a 4x4 along the two sides (parallel with ground effects) with a few strategically-placed jacks underneath. I'll have no suspension either...its coming off to get reconditioned. I'll be painting underneath....

 

I recall a few years ago I had it up on the axle & A arms and the doors did not close the same...clearly some deflection going on. I'm concerned about it being in the air for an extended period of time. Maybe I have to build a jig for it?

 

should put subframe connectors on there first and worry about cleaning it later, then you won't have to worry about flex IMO

 

That's a great idea! I will install subframe connectors first, then clean & paint. One good turn leads to another....so back to the comments on leveling the car. Any suggestions? Can they be "placed/marked" on the ground and secured once in the air? I have access to a car hoist/stacker with drive-on rails. Is that a good place to install them?

 

I just went through this.
The sub frame connectors were installed with the car completely stripped except for the front clip. Doors, hatch, interior and the entire drivetrain all removed. No chassis flex was evident when on the four point hoist.
Back at my shop, I then put in up of 4 jack stands to clean, sandblast and paint.
Rock solid. In fact, it would stand on three jacks from time to time.

 

Good stuff, thank you. Couple of q's and some clarification on your recommendation:

1) I have very nice exterior paint on this vert. Show-car quality. I have nothing more than a sandblast cabinet. Should I take it to the sandblast shop (haven't started pulling the powertrain yet) and have them do the majority of the car underneath?

2) have the frame ties installed on a drive on hoist

3) pull the PT and driveline, etc and put on jacks per your photo.

Does this sound like a plan that works? It is a vert.

 

Any ideas on where to pickup an inexpensive set of frame ties? Does it matter if a coupe or vert?

 

As far as protecting the paint when the underside is being sandblasted, I imagine the results will depend on the competency of the shop.
I have fairly nice paint. At least nice enough in that I didn't want to mess it up. I did my own sand blasting and made a tent over the car with a 15' x 30' tarp. At one end of the tent, I placed a 20" wall fan and sucked the air from under the car blowing it out the garage door. The resulting low pressure kept the dust from getting into the shop. It didn't stop the sand from getting into the interior through various bolt holes and such. There was a mess to clean up afterwards. As far as inexpensive sub frame connectors go, finding them used doesn't happen often (but does happen occasionally). Personally I like the Spohn SFC's.

 

I will check the sandblast shop and see if the can do most of it with the PT in it. I do expect to have the interior out of the car. I am concerned how I'll weld the frame ties though. I guess any exhaust shop could do the work?

 

My advice would be to use a shop that's done it before.
A place that has a good reputation. Maybe someone at 3rd gen has experience with a shop near you.

 

Good point. I live in Troy, MI. Does anyone know of a shop within 100 miles that could do this work correctly?

 

Maybe you can post that question as the title of a new thread.
You may attract some attention.