How do I get to the top screws on the heater cover to remove the cover, then the core? It's started leaking, so I want to put in a new one.
Thanks
DC

 

remove the following to get at heatercore

 

remove the following: radio,center console,dash pad,cluster, two front speakers,disconnect heater vents, drop steering column and move plastic dash support to the side to get at heater core should be about 8 hour job. have fun

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3.8 turbo 20th anniversary transam #497 first owed by Clifford Williams, Bass player from rock band AC/DC

 

thats not soo I only had to pull a few things what year is you car
all that I had to remove was the dash pad and the pass. side speaker and remove the dash bolts on the pass. side up to the hump
this gave me just enough space to FEEL the screw.
the website has a article on how to do it but I couldnt see it like they said I had to reach down through the hole from the speaker and remove it blind
all in all it took me about 3 hours to do
any way if you want more help just ask and I will give you a full walk through
ps a diagram out of a chiltons or a hanes manual will help you visualize where the screw is at any who im out

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Ya sure it is just an RS

B4Cyaa

1991 RS B4C
Former Nebraska Highway Patrol Car 1 of 3
305 TPI
WC T-5
Four Wheel Disk Brakes
Only Options
Rear Defrost
Am-Fm Radio
Red-int White-exe
One BA Of A 350 In The Works
Mods
Dynomax Cat Back (to hold me over till I got the $$$ for the Borla)
best 1/4mile Run of 14.92@94.83
with 145,000 on her

[This message has been edited by 91B4C jacob (edited November 19, 2000).]

 

You're joking right? You don't need to remove anywhere near that much **** to get at your heater core. I just did mine. I removed the dash pad (wasn't necessary thogh), lower passenger side dash panel, passenger seat, the lower screws for the plastic outer heater box, the heater core bracket, then the core itself. I took about 7 hours to do all of it, but I took my time.

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91 Trans Am WS6
Bright White
5.0 TPI auto
Flowmaster 3" 2 chamber catback
Trans Go shiftkit
2000 stall converter

supposed 'peanut cammed' car (yeah, right)

Built on Wednesday

 

It only took me about 3 hours to do the whole job. I have an 85' and the hardest part, i thought was putting the core back in. Yes i had to take off the dsh pad to get at the pass side bolt and screw to be able to pry the dash back.

I typed the whole process (I think, i did it a couple weeks ago) on the Heater core not spitting out heat.

but my core was spitting out fog and everything all over the windsheild. that is a bitch to clean off.

 

It took me 2 hours to do it on my 86 firebird, but I was told once that the 87-up firebird dash needs to come completely out. I don't see how the 87-up dash is different than the 86. I did notice however that under the hood, it was MUCH easier to access the heater core on my 2.8 than it is on the V8 cars. My GTA needs a heater core and I'm going to do it this week. I'll post a report.

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The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

 

Well, well,
I got it out! I took off the top dash pad, speaker & bracket, loosened the bolts that attach the dash, and GENTLY pried the dash up and out to get enough room to reach that one screw. It was much easier to reach. The one thing that was in the way(from the top) was an A/C duct. I couldn't figure out how to move or remove it. If I could have, getting to the top screw would have been a piece of cake!

What should I use to reseal the case? The old foam stuff was nasty looking goo!
Thanks everyone for all the info--a big help,
DC

 

You go boy I dont know how I would have done it the way all to the books said to do it
I dont have that kind of time to kill
as for the seal on the box just go with out my car didnt even have a seal around the box it just had a grove on the fireway side of the box that mated with a ridge on the cover
and as for the AC duct I feel your pain I went through the same $!ht the only way to get it out I think is to do it the long way and that is not worth it to me any how good job man

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Ya sure it is just an RS

B4Cyaa

1991 RS B4C
Former Nebraska Highway Patrol Car 1 of 3
305 TPI
WC T-5
Four Wheel Disk Brakes
Only Options
Rear Defrost
Am-Fm Radio
Red-int White-exe
One BA Of A 350 In The Works
Mods
Dynomax Cat Back (to hold me over till I got the $$$ for the Borla)
best 1/4mile Run of 14.92@94.83
with 145,000 on her

 

The job is done and the new heater core went in pretty easily. I finally found the right position to get into to reach and tignten that damn top screw. While I was doing all this ****, I pulled the radiator for a shop to overhaul. Now that I know how to do this, I hope I don't need to do it again for at least 5 years!!

I'm looking for some stuff to use to seal the openings in the firewall where the heater connections stick through. Any suggestions on what will seal the holes and handle the heat without melting?!!

Thanks, DC

 

How about some RTV? The kind you use to put on valve covers? That should hold up to the heat.

 

to seal the box back up I found some thin foam stripping at the local hardware store (about 1/4" wide) with adhesive on it already. I don't know if it had a brand name or not but it was a very light grey color and comes in a big roll. You should be able to find something similar. Good luck.
John
P.S. could some of you look at my post on Aftermarket Product Review about heater core brands and give me your opinion? Thanks.

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84 Firebird with Trans am ground effects- 350 4bbl GM crate motor (LM1), T-Tops, automatic, K&N filter, 180* thermostat, ram-air hood scoop, flowmaster muffler, Accel cap & rotor, MSD Super Conductor Wires. Coming soon: new interior (grey), rear end work, subframe connectors, polyurethane bushings