Thanks,
Scott M.

 

I haven't done it, but have always thought it could look cool on our cars. You never really see that on anything but the antique hot rods and such

 

Door poppers are little spring things that don't come in a pound rating - you are probably referring to the solenoid rating. I have 50 pounders on my TA and it works just fine - could probably even go with the standard 35 pounders.

Steve
See more at http://members.nbci.com/scauffiel/index.htm

 

Hey Steve, what brand of shaved door handle kit did you get? I was gonna get Autoloc ones, but I have been looking around to see if I can find a better set.
Thanks,
Douglas

 

I got the AutoLoc Pro kit - something like $250. Haven't had any problems yet...<knock><knock>

Steve

 

I did it to my car. Found a kit in summit catalog. only cost $120 and had no trouble with it.

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Just to satisfy some curiosity and hopefully help out some of you guys, here's some simplified information about how these work.

1) You push a button on a remote.
2) The signal is received by the circuitry in the car. Depending on which button is pushed another signal is fired to a solenoid (you have two, one in each door.)
3) The solenoid kind of looks like the solenoid on your starter, and works the same way. When energized it becomes a powerful magnet, moving in whatever direction it is manufactured to move. When de-energized it moves back into its resting position.
4) The end of the solenoid is attached by wire cable to your door latch; the same latch that the door handle pulls when you use it. When that solenoid moves down (after you push the button) it pulls the latch, thereby releasing the door. The "pull" is what the numbers are that you'll see; 35lbs, 50lbs, etc. That is how much force these solenoids will momentarily pull when energized.
5) The solenoid de-energizes and moves back to its resting position ready for its next pull.
6) Door poppers are just little "kicker" deals that are basically just springs that you place in the door to give it just a little more kick when opening so you have more door to grab onto to pull open.
7) You have an emergency button to press in case the remote fails; it opens one of the doors. In case of complete power failure you are forced to crawl in through the hatch - or, if you're like me you can access your battery from the rear and jump her from outside the car - giving you power to open your doors.

A nice clean look.
Here you can see the solenoid tucked inside the door. The wire cable you can see on the end of the solenoid is what is attached to the door latch mechanism, pulling it open when the solenoid pulls down.
The only reason I put this pic in is to point out along the left edge of the door there is the actual "door popper," essentially a big spring to push open the door.
The wiring or circuitry used to make it all work. May look like it's tough to do, but it really wasn't that bad.

Hope this helps somebody out,

Steve

 

I did my doors nearly 12 years ago, here's what I learned. Do'nt bother with anyones kit, you'll pay too much for too little. When I first did my doors I used a MR. GASKET kit that used solenoids, they were garbage and lasted about a month until the winter came and they froze up. After I ripped out that "kit", I looked at others, then I decided to come up with my own. I decide to use GM power door lock actuators, they have more than enough power to pull the latch and work no matter what season it is. I used two channels of my alarm to remotely open the doors, I also flush mounted two micro switches in the bottom of the side mirrors. I installed relays to disable the remote when the ignition is on, and my alarm prevents the doors from being locked if the keys are in the ignition. Finally I installed a way to get in the car even if the battery is dead, and no I do'nt crawl through the hatch, that key lock is also shaved. If anyone has any doubt about the strength of the GM actuators, I also installed one on the hood so i can remotely release the first stage of the hood release. The interior release handle is gone. A simple system is easy to install, but one that will last takes a while to do. Good luck.

 

Easy for you to say...

Seriously, I heard people going this route as well, I just wanted a simple all-in-one kit that would install cleanly. Also someone to scream at for help would be sweet as well! If I had the knowledge/experience that Odin has I probably would have considered it more seriously, but I don't - so I didn't. Cool ideas - just not enough brain power to enact!

I'm kind of wondering what's going to happen to those solenoids in the Colorado cold when I move there in the next two weeks... Course, if I can't get the car running it'll all be moot regardless...

Steve http://members.nbci.com/scauffiel/index.htm

 

yeah, i did mine last christmas. i got the autoloc brand: 2 solenoids, 2 relays, some metal brackets, and some wire cable. wasn't really impressed with the brackets or cable. i used my exsisting alarm functions. i didn't like having my doors open everytime i turned the alarm off, so i wired it: buttons 1 & 2 - driver , and button 2 held down - passenger. i also wired in 2 optional switches for the alarm on/off button(button 1) in case i do want my door or both doors to open when out and about with some friends. also wired in driver/passenger switches in the ashtray. used 10 gauge wire, 30 amp fuses, upgraded metal brackets, and thicker cable. the best part isn't having shaved doors on the outside, its the endless options for inner door panels that you now have.

thadd

 

Okay, so here is a question, if I want to do the power door lock route and I already have power door locks (well, my new doors do) can I just use those? Relocate them to by the door latch? Seems like a really easy way to do it and a heck of a lot cheaper then 70 bucks a door.....
I was playing around with my doors while they are off the car and it didn't seem like it would take that much pressure to unlatch the door, so I don't see why you need 50 lbs, or even 35....
Thanks,
Douglas
P.S. two more questions... with the power door locks would you have to unlock/lock them each time... I mean like you unlock them, then have to lock them again? Second, would power trunk solenoids work? They seem to be nice and tough and basically do the same thing....

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Cruisin' in his Camaro he sees Homies as he pass, but if he looks twice they'll try an race is lilly *** !!
Member: "This Close to my Dream GTA" club

[This message has been edited by AmorgetRS (edited November 30, 2000).]

 

Ok, I know just about nothing about bodywork...

How do you fill the recess from the old door handle? Weld in a plate and smooth with bondo or something? Just trying to figure out all i can in case i decide to try this out in the future.

 

Yes, you have to weld in a plate, then I suggest you use lead instead of bondo. The lead will not shrink or crack the way bondo does.

 

welding in a plate is best, but if you don't have a welder or know anyone that does, you could go the fiberglass route. (if you do try it yourself, be sure to test the welder first. you could warp or eat through the door) i ended up using fiberglass. i don't know much about lead, but i used RAGE body filler. not saying i did it the way i really wanted, but it's been a year and i haven't had any problems.

thadd