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Old Dec 5, 2001 | 12:43 PM
  #1  
formula88bird's Avatar
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From: Manteno,Ill
underbody protection

What is the best product to use when under coating your car?? I want less mess, best rust protection.

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305TBI(LO3)
K&N filter
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Old Dec 5, 2001 | 02:40 PM
  #2  
ryn28's Avatar
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From: Long Island, N.Y.
Car: 1986 Camaro Z-28
Engine: Chevy ZZ4
Transmission: Select Built 700R4
Axle/Gears: Moser Axles / 3.73 Richmond Gears
The best thing is to leave that crap off. That undercoating weighs a ton when applied all over and can collect and hold moisture. I'm glad I don't have any on my car otherwsie I'd have a hell of a time scrapping it off. I live in NY and used to drive the car everyday. In the snow, after a good drive I'd rinse the wheel wells and underside to wash away any road salt. I have no rust problems what so ever.

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1986 T-Top Z-28, ZZ-4 Crate Engine, Complete High Flow TPIS TPI, SLP 1-3/4" Headers, 3" Exhaust, Richmond 3.73's, Moser Axles, Auburn Pro-Series Diff, 2800rpm 10" Non-Lockup Conv., 90/10 Front's, 40/60 Rears, Spohn LCA's, LCA's brackets, SSM SFC.
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Old Dec 5, 2001 | 03:10 PM
  #3  
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From: Mentor, OH
I allow ryn28 to his opinion, but I differ.

I replaced the floor pans in my Camaro and used the POR15 (on the inside and outside of the new pans). It weighs no more then an extra coat of paint and is TOUGH. It forms a water tight seal and does not hold water (reuberized undercoating from SuperK, that might hold water). I used that rubberized stuff on top of the POR15 as an extra sound deadner.

A friend of mine and I are using it on rust on his Jeep that we are prepping for paint.

My Camaro never sees winter anymore (so I can't say my Camaro is true proof of POR15)... BUT, my father used some of my left over POR15, followed the treatment process on the rusted hood of his garden tractor (that has been sitting outside, over a year in ALL weather, snow included) and I have yet to see it re-rust.

I also know other people that restore vehicles and they use this stuff.

Look for POR15 on the net and in classic car mags.

Best of luck!

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'84 5.0 liter v8 Z28 Camaro
'93 3.3 liter v6 Grand Am SE


http://www.lightstream.net/~the_maniac
E-Mail: The_Maniac@lightstream.net
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Old Dec 5, 2001 | 09:53 PM
  #4  
ryn28's Avatar
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From: Long Island, N.Y.
Car: 1986 Camaro Z-28
Engine: Chevy ZZ4
Transmission: Select Built 700R4
Axle/Gears: Moser Axles / 3.73 Richmond Gears
I like the POR15 idea. I've heard good things about that stuff too. I'd personally use only the POR15 and nothing else if I was doing it but as stated that's just my opinion.
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Old Dec 5, 2001 | 10:53 PM
  #5  
Flash84Z28's Avatar
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From: St.Charles, MO/ Edwardsville, IL
Car: '03 S-10/ '87 Trans Am
Engine: mild 350
Transmission: TH350
Yeah, I'm getting ready to paint my whole underbody in POR15. I'm getting a quart of flat or simi-gloss black and coating the boards, crossmember, and everthing else that's metal. The POR15 hardens when it contacts water and seals water resistant therefore stopping any futher rusting, preventing chipping, and adds a surface to paint over and not worry about flaking.

If anyone else has used this is a quart enough? And do I need to prep?

-Matt

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-----------------------
POWER AT THE COST OF BODY WORK...
1984 Camaro Z28 - Black w/ Grey int.
-GMPP 350 (72cc heads, 8.5:1 CR, & .390 intake/.410 exhaust cam) with Edelbrock 600 Carb, Edelbrock Preformer RPM intake, AC Delco plugs, 8mm AC Delco wires, 14" Accel filter, Edelbrock Chrome valve covers, breather, and Air cleaner.
- Profesionally Built Turbo-350 with 2500 RPM Stall converter, Hurst shifter, & one wicked shift kit.
- Eagle Alloys 15" Alum. Rims surrounded by P235/60R15 BF Goodrich Radial T/A's
-Comming Soon:
3.73's, MAC Cat-Back, hollowed cat., B&M Megashifter, & Paint: Navy Blue Metallic w/ Silver strips
Pics & more at: http://members.fbody.com/flashz28/
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Old Dec 5, 2001 | 11:36 PM
  #6  
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From: Mentor, OH
I used a quart on the top and bottom sides of my floor pans and had a small amount left over. Mine (since the floor pans aren't seen) was applied using a paint brush (so it's extra thick)...

As for prep... Any areas of rust, go over them with a wire brush (get anything that is loose and could flake off out of the area to be POR15, but it does not need to be bare metal. Also, from what I know about paint and metal, go over ALL surfaces to be POR15ed with a wire brush (or even better a wire wheel on a power drill). This will find loose parts of paint (not necisarily ones with rust) that happen to be loose and ready to chip. This should help create a work area that will not chip once POR15 has been applied.

------------------
'84 5.0 liter v8 Z28 Camaro
'93 3.3 liter v6 Grand Am SE


http://www.lightstream.net/~the_maniac
E-Mail: The_Maniac@lightstream.net
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Old Dec 6, 2001 | 12:29 AM
  #7  
Scott_92RS's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Plano, TX
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 406 Stealth Ram
Transmission: 700R4
This stuff is supposed to be good, too: http://www.zerorust.com/
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Old Dec 6, 2001 | 04:10 PM
  #8  
toosloz's Avatar
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From: green bay
i am gonna use black epoxy primer on mine...that stuff is strong
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Old Dec 7, 2001 | 05:13 PM
  #9  
cort351w's Avatar
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From: Ft. Worth, TX
VHT makes both the epoxy paint and an epoxy especially for the chassis and roll bar. It air dries over 30 days to a "porcelain hard finish"
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