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Old Jul 26, 2014 | 09:48 PM
  #1  
TheIgnitious's Avatar
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From: Texas
Car: 82' Z28 Crossfire
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Axle/Gears: 3.42
Air dam question

Should probably ask this in cooling, but, body has always been more helpful to me anyways, I have a damaged air dam that's flexing while driving at high speeds allowing the car to overheat. My question is, would it be better to build a metal air dam that is bent so it would "scoop" the air?? Instead of straight down like the oem?? Just throw your opinions out there, looking to knick this problem in the butt, just trying to see what's more effective
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Old Jul 26, 2014 | 10:07 PM
  #2  
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: LH6
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Re: Air dam question

How about this: Build one, test it. Put a OEM on, and test it. Compare your results and post them here. If the custom one you made works significantly better, make a bunch and sell them.
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Old Jul 26, 2014 | 10:48 PM
  #3  
TheIgnitious's Avatar
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From: Texas
Car: 82' Z28 Crossfire
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Re: Air dam question

Originally Posted by RubberDucky
How about this: Build one, test it. Put a OEM on, and test it. Compare your results and post them here. If the custom one you made works significantly better, make a bunch and sell them.
I'm down to, just curious if anyone has already tried it... Also.. I put a v6 air dam on my car (with the large blocks that block air from going below the battery tray and other side, also have the side skirts between radiator and bumper.) is this necessary on a v8 car? I'm thinking about cutting it out (since it's attached to old air dam), but it it will help then I won't.
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Old Jul 26, 2014 | 10:57 PM
  #4  
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Re: Air dam question

Originally Posted by TheIgnitious
I'm down to, just curious if anyone has already tried it... Also.. I put a v6 air dam on my car (with the large blocks that block air from going below the battery tray and other side, also have the side skirts between radiator and bumper.) is this necessary on a v8 car? I'm thinking about cutting it out (since it's attached to old air dam), but it it will help then I won't.
I didn't even know the air dams were different. The 87 350 IROC I had didn't have one.

I'm sure somebody has made something, actually I remember it done on a Firebird here on TGO. But I can't remember who did it.
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Old Jul 26, 2014 | 11:23 PM
  #5  
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From: Michigan [Bodacious Member with the Bodacious TA'TAs (Trans Ams)]
Car: 91 Formula - Authentic and REAL
Engine: 5.0 Liter
Transmission: 700R4
Re: Air dam question

How do you know it flexes. Is it cracked? If you don't want to buy a good one, you could make braces for it out of aluminum.
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Old Jul 27, 2014 | 12:31 AM
  #6  
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Car: 82' Z28 Crossfire
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Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Air dam question

Originally Posted by MintWS6FORMULA
How do you know it flexes. Is it cracked? If you don't want to buy a good one, you could make braces for it out of aluminum.
It's not a flat air dam.. I'll have to post pic. Came off 85 v6 it comes to a v and it's broke at the point. I can physically move it around. As I'm sure 65 mph wind can
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Old Jul 27, 2014 | 12:41 AM
  #7  
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Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Air dam question

Originally Posted by RubberDucky
I didn't even know the air dams were different. The 87 350 IROC I had didn't have one.

I'm sure somebody has made something, actually I remember it done on a Firebird here on TGO. But I can't remember who did it.
I'll post a pic tomorrow of the air dam. Got quite a bit of extra stuff
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Old Jul 27, 2014 | 12:22 PM
  #8  
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Re: Air dam question

Alright guys... here it is. its a little confusing but ill explain.


This is underneath the driver side just behind the bumper... Also attached to the air dam. (Yes thats zip ties holding it, was not direct bolt up... also why im thinking of deleting )


Now, this is the problem. This is the air dam, hard to see in this pic but unlike most straight air dams, the seam in the middle is actually where they come to a point.. (which doesnt make sense to me how that would scoop it up????"


Large overview.
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Old Jul 27, 2014 | 01:52 PM
  #9  
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From: Concord N.H.
Car: 1985 T/A
Re: Air dam question

Mine is a strip of conveyor belting that forms a u shape in front of the radiator,it was cheap and effective,at 70+ mph I never see over 190.
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Old Jul 27, 2014 | 02:14 PM
  #10  
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Car: 87 Trans Am, 99 WS6, 16 Mustang GT
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Transmission: 700R4, T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi, 4.10 Posi
Re: Air dam question

Originally Posted by TheIgnitious
Now, this is the problem. This is the air dam, hard to see in this pic but unlike most straight air dams, the seam in the middle is actually where they come to a point.. (which doesnt make sense to me how that would scoop it up????"
That's not how airflow works. It doesn't have to be shaped like a "scoop".

Building one out of whatever metal you have laying around your garage will result in your car over heating after it shears off the first time you hit anything, which will probably be within 10mi. The factory ones are plastic, so they flex. When they hit something, they'll spring back into place.

Buy a new one. They aren't that expensive. Don't waste your time.

http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/pr...r-Air-Dam.html

This is what I had on my IROC. If I had to guess (I've never owned a V6), I'd say the airdam you have on your car is off a sport coupe, that's why you have to use zipties. The sport coupe has a different front bumper.

These cars should run around 180*-200* (while in motion) with the airdam intact and everything else being factory.

Last edited by NowhereFast; Jul 27, 2014 at 02:21 PM.
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Old Jul 27, 2014 | 02:40 PM
  #11  
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Car: 82' Z28 Crossfire
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Transmission: Turbo 350
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Air dam question

Originally Posted by _Nick_
That's not how airflow works. It doesn't have to be shaped like a "scoop".

Building one out of whatever metal you have laying around your garage will result in your car over heating after it shears off the first time you hit anything, which will probably be within 10mi. The factory ones are plastic, so they flex. When they hit something, they'll spring back into place.

Buy a new one. They aren't that expensive. Don't waste your time.

http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/pr...r-Air-Dam.html

This is what I had on my IROC. If I had to guess (I've never owned a V6), I'd say the airdam you have on your car is off a sport coupe, that's why you have to use zipties. The sport coupe has a different front bumper.

These cars should run around 180*-200* (while in motion) with the airdam intact and everything else being factory.
So I should just delete the extra paneling? And nowhere near stock.. Stock block but a lot done to it.. New rad, dual fans, etc,
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Old Jul 27, 2014 | 11:03 PM
  #12  
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From: St. Louis, MO
Car: 85' Firebird (Project), 92' RS
Engine: 2.8L, LS1
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Open , 10 Bolt (ukn)
Re: Air dam question

Found the 3 piece kit on ebay...I'll be purchasing one for myself soon, since my 2 side pieces departed the car years ago. The center one did a good enough job keeping things under 200°, and cooling was never an issue, even during Missouri summers with temps near 100°...unless you stopped.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/291049803621?lpid=82
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Old Jul 27, 2014 | 11:09 PM
  #13  
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From: Texas
Car: 82' Z28 Crossfire
Engine: 305
Transmission: Turbo 350
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Air dam question

See it's not sitting that overheats me, bought one piece air dam that came with the car, gonna try it and see what happens
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