Hello guys. I don't post very often, but thought I would take a chance and see if anyone knows the answer to two questions. (I haven't found anything on it in the forums so far...)

I'm getting ready to replace the dreaded rusty floor pans in my 1983 Firebird T/A. The way I found out they were rusty was by accelerating from a stop light and finding myself reclining in the back seat... the seat bolts pulled out of the floor pan. In any event, it was time to replace the carpet and such anyway, so I stripped the entire interior and as expected, found that the rust was much worse than I had thought.

Rock Auto has the full floor pans for $220 per side, however, no one seems to have what I believe are either called "seat braces" or "floor pan braces"... essentially what look like box steel bars containing the vertical bolts which the seats connect onto with bolts.

1. Does anyone know of a source for these, or is this something I'm going to have to fabricate from scratch?

Second, I've read something online about "bracing the vehicle before you cut out the old floor pans or when you're done the doors won't close correctly." This was not for a firebird, but rather a convertible of some sort (I don't recall which car exactly) so it may not be relevant, but...

2. Do I need to somehow brace the car in it's present shape before cutting out the old floor pans, and if so, what exactly is the correct method?

Thanks guys!

Greg

 

I never done it but I would love to fab everything up. I seen people tack square tubing outside the body from fender to quater panel and seen some people tack tubing in the inside of door jams and also from inside around dash area and.ny rear speakers. The more the marrier, I wouldnt wany my car getting out of square. I would weld in some sub frame connectors first and build from there. Watch some vids and read some books for ideas. Good luck on your build and dont forget to post some pics

 

I put the car on stands under the rocker panels the same hight all the way around you want need any bracing and if you can find a used one and get the whole panel it makes a much easier job and it will come with the braces

 

Well buddy, the same thing happened to me in my first 92 RS, and let me say this is if no one else has....the seat braces & mounts aren't reproduced by ANY oem. I searched high and low lol. Best bet, hit the junk yard...and cut out what you need from a donor.

Just my

92RS-HeritageEd

 

That's what I figured.

The RockAuto floor pans don't come with the seat braces, or at least they don't appear to come with them... so I will probably be fabricating them. There's still a lot of good metal so I may just fabricate patches for the areas that are bad. Granted, there are two large areas, 1' x 1' or so at the front of each floor pan near the firewall) but only 2-3 small areas after that (1"x1"). I will have a better idea how to proceed after I shop vac out all of the crud and rust debris and grind down the surface rust...

@Mirror Image: So if I'm understanding you correctly, If I level the car on stands with one stand positioned at each jack point, I shouldn't need to weld in additional bracing before cutting out the floor pan? I should also note that I will do 1/2 of the car at a time... driver's side first, and after the new pan is welded into place, I will cut out the passenger side and replace that half. The middle portion of the factory pan (under the console) is in great shape.

 

well, you gsteiner@q-stat are far more mechanically inclined than myself. I paid someone to cut-out and fab in sheet metal, cost me $300 bucks and that was only the driver side. Needless to say, I bailed on that project because I couldn't find reliable help, and it began costing me more than I'd spend buying another ThirdGen.

Take Care,

92RS-HeritageEd

 

Can certainly understand that. This really is a sentimental vehicle. This vehicle has been in my family since day one. It was my mother's car initially, but five years later she handed the title over to me. I've had it since, and it's been all over the country, had a light bar on it at one point when I ran fire/rescue years ago, etc. etc. Oh the stories this car could tell... Couldn't really see ever replacing it.

On top of that, I just replaced the entire suspension system a few months ago

Anyway, I figure I've got nothing to lose and everything to gain. No reason to let a little rust get in my way.

 

This is the car and why I want to swap out the rusty floor pans... this picture was taken before the new grills were in place. The hub caps have also all be replaced.

 

That's a bad azz ThirdGen. My 1st didn't have any special value to me other than it was my 1st. It's a V6, Black on Black and I had hope for it but the rust was to far gone and being in Ohio, I should've researched and inspected a little more before I jumped in and threw away $1400 bucks....Cost of car $500, remainder was Parts & Labor. Then again I got what I paid for. You situation is very different, and that gem of a TirdGen you have there I wouldn't let go either and would restore it at all cost.

 

Thanks. This is the V8 with Cross-Fire fuel injection. It's got about 238,000 miles on the original engine. Had considered having the engine rebuilt a few years ago, but the mechanic I brought it to (that also has a third-gen) did a compression check and took it out and told me not to touch it. He said it is still performing within factory spec. The only issue is that there's an oil leak (again) from the valve covers. I have the new gaskets but haven't put them in yet. Decided to do the floor pan repair first.

 

Well.. technically, I was forced to do the floor pan repairs since the seat came detached...lol

 

I only do bracing if its a convertible and i have installed probley 100 sets and your fine doing the whole set and you do want the car to be on stands under the rocker panels and make sure you stands are on the same notch so the car is not twisted and you should be fine

 

And yes at the jack points

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/82-92-FIREBI...VXDq0W&vxp=mtr