Rust Repair Questions
#1
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Car: 1989 Irocz
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 Posi
Rust Repair Questions
I have a 1989 Camaro that I just got running again recently after sitting for a while and now want to start working on the body. I have some pretty serious rust on the drivers side and wanted to see what y'all thought about how I could repair it or if I should just get a shop to. I am a welder and have a welding machine as well as other tools I think I could use but have no experience with body work at all. I'll post the pictures and see what y'all think and thank everyone in advance.
Overview of driverside window.
Above driverside window.
Middle.
Bottom of windshield.
Overview of driverside window.
Above driverside window.
Middle.
Bottom of windshield.
#3
Re: Rust Repair Questions
Instead of telling you what I think you should do, Ill just say that learning body work takes time, money and a lot of patients. Welding is only one part of the job. If you decide to embark on this and you haven't done it before, I suggest getting some practice panels from a junkyard and do your learning on them. I have been in your position asking the same question and I did it myself and I'm glad I did. There is a lot to learn but the info is out there if you look for it and it can be done.
#4
#5
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Re: Rust Repair Questions
That's an odd place for a thirdgen to rust. How much other rust does the car have? Corners of the floor pans up front? Holes in the corners by the back seat cushions? Holes in the 1/4 panels behind the rear wheels? I'd bet there's serious rust other places.
You won't really know how bad the rust is until all the bubbled paint, and loose rust is cleaned away. Might also want to remove the headliner and trim to see how bad the rust is from the inside. If those spots are rusting out from the inside, and you have holes all the way up the A pillar and across the roof line, it might be best to salvage a good roof skin from a donor car, and change the entire skin. But with rust like that, I'd be looking pretty strongly at the rest of the car before deciding if it's worth salvaging.
You won't really know how bad the rust is until all the bubbled paint, and loose rust is cleaned away. Might also want to remove the headliner and trim to see how bad the rust is from the inside. If those spots are rusting out from the inside, and you have holes all the way up the A pillar and across the roof line, it might be best to salvage a good roof skin from a donor car, and change the entire skin. But with rust like that, I'd be looking pretty strongly at the rest of the car before deciding if it's worth salvaging.
#6
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Car: 1989 Irocz
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 Posi
Re: Rust Repair Questions
Thanks for all the replies and that's the only spot where's there's rust on the outside of the car besides the battery tray.
When I bought it from the previous owner it had a small amount of rust above the window where the black primer is. He said he stripped it down and primed it there to try and stop it. But as far as inside the car I don't know if there's any rust. I do know under the car has no rust as well as the quarter panels have no rust.
But why is that a weird spot for it to rust?
When I bought it from the previous owner it had a small amount of rust above the window where the black primer is. He said he stripped it down and primed it there to try and stop it. But as far as inside the car I don't know if there's any rust. I do know under the car has no rust as well as the quarter panels have no rust.
But why is that a weird spot for it to rust?
#7
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iTrader: (58)
Re: Rust Repair Questions
Because water doesn't pool there. It's not in the wake of the tires, where it'd be pelted with gravel, and road salt, etc. If the paint peeled, and it started to rust on the surface, followed by someone painting over that rust, that would explain it.
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#9
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Car: 1989 Irocz
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 Posi
Re: Rust Repair Questions
Well looks like I'll probably have a shop go ahead and repair it because it seems like there may be a lot more rust hidden somewhere. I got a quote from a shop about 3 years ago and they said to cut all the rust out and replace it along with a new windshield and headliner and just prime the car it would be 2000 but if I wanted them to paint it too it would be 4000 for everything. Do y'all know if this is about right for the price? I know it's one of the best body shops in my area.
#10
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Car: 1988 Trans Am
Engine: L03
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 2.73 Open
Re: Rust Repair Questions
Depending on how bad it is, that might be a candidate for a whole roof form a donor car, which IMO would be a body-shop job for most folks.
#11
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Re: Rust Repair Questions
Joint at drip rails is rusted out.
Water intruding cabin at drip rail.
Water intruding cabin at drip rail.
#12
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Re: Rust Repair Questions
The bubbling is seam between metal and bondo from previous repair
#13
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Car: 1989 Irocz
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 Posi
Re: Rust Repair Questions
Well I do know there is Bondo cracking behind the driverside window between the window and back glass from the previous owner. He said something about backing into a pole but I can't remember exactly I bought the car in 2011. But I'm going to try and finish getting the car ready to be inspected and then see about getting a quote to get it fixed. I just really would really hate to see this car get any worse since it was my first car. Thank you everyone for your input about how I should go about getting it fixed.
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