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One of my upcoming projects is replacing the upper and lower door pins and bushings. I see reference on many threads here about the installation instructions on AndyZ28's website. However, that site now appears to be down.
I do, but unless you have his kits, they wouldn't do you much good. Pretty sure Hawks sells a similar kit, similar kits are also available from Rock Auto, Andy just released his kits back when most people weren't messing with the upper hinges.
The long and short is you have to grind the riveted pins on the top hinge to remove the worn pins and bushings, then replace the pins with a machined pin that bolts in with a locknut. The lowers are simpler, remove the spring, drive out the old pin, remove the old bushings, install new bushings, push in the new pin, and reinstall the spring.
At this point, most cars that haven't already had the pins and bushings changed probably need a new door check roller, new roller pin, and potentially the check arm, and mounting post, will need dressing or replacement since they wear funny when the doors sag.
At any rate there are plenty of illustrated threads covering how to rebuild the door hinges. The job is documented frequently, the most difficult part is probably going to finding a thread with photos that weren't nuked by Photobucket or other old hosts going under.
Thanks Drew! I see the roller pin and roller are available on TDS website. Didn't see the check arm or its mounting post. Are those parts still available?
Also, it looks like I ordered the same hinge pin and bushing kit from RockAuto about a month ago. At that point, I had thought that was all i would need. Driver door is definitely sagged, lower pin rocks in the bushing.
Nah, the exact post for the roller is NLA. There have been posts in the past about a GM truck piece that can be lightly modified to work. The arm is riveted to the hinge assembly, generally to replace it you'd replace the hinge. Take a good look at it, if the edge is rolled over or worn at an extreme angle, you'll see it. I ended up filing and grinding the one on my project square, which worked ok.
I think i have a very old kit of his i still havent used.Instructions say thirdgensource, but i think that was andys site back then.LMK if you want me to post it. I have his CD too.
I think i have a very old kit of his i still havent used.Instructions say thirdgensource, but i think that was andys site back then.LMK if you want me to post it. I have his CD too.
I appreciate the offer! Ended up taking the door off yesterday. Left the one set of hinges on the A pillar and cut the pins with a air hammer and dremel. Wasn't as terrible as I had feared. As many had said, patience is key. Why let Jeep guys have all the fun?
Stir from needing to replace the bushings, my Oklahoma car had just one area of rust. Odd spot, I'm guessing water must have somehow gotten trapped behind the weatherstripping.
Going to make a patch today from the sheet metal over the gas tank on my parts car. Neighbor has a welder and will weld it in place, then prime, paint and get this big hunks of .etal back on the car.
That's why I bought the kit too. Read so many scary stories about the hinges being out of round. Thought I would need the bushings fixed. Turned out it was nowhere near that bad.
I bought my kit from Lon at TDS, had it done locally by a shop that deals in C10 and other classic GM trucks. Doors feel so much more solid than they did before. The guy who installed it commented they were a bit more of a pain but over all an impressive kit.
Wish I could take credit for the welding. The fellow that did it is amazing. Something I have always wanted to learn to do, hopefully get to in the future. Everything else is my handiwork (for better or worse!).
04-17-2020, 04:30 PM
