Is It Safe to Say My Hatch Pull Down Motor Is Dead?
#1
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Is It Safe to Say My Hatch Pull Down Motor Is Dead?
Today, I was playing around with my system in the rear hatch. When I went to shut my hatch, it latches fine but the motor isn't ingaging and it won't pull down. I've owned the car for about 10 years now. I have never slammed the rear hatch shut. Is it safe to say that this is just the pull down motor has finally died?
Is the ACDelco Tailgate Pulldown motor the correct part?
Is the ACDelco Tailgate Pulldown motor the correct part?
#2
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Re: Is It Safe to Say My Hatch Pull Down Motor Is Dead?
I would have a gander at it with a multimeter first. Hard to truly diagnose an issue without... diagnostics.
#3
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#4
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Re: Is It Safe to Say My Hatch Pull Down Motor Is Dead?
I'd be looking for power to the motor when it's triggered. Get your face in there and see if you can hear the motor struggling, maybe there's a bad ground or broken plastic piece of track. The panel is easy to pull off so you might as well take a look anyway.
#5
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Re: Is It Safe to Say My Hatch Pull Down Motor Is Dead?
I already got the panel off. When I looked before, I didn't notice anything broken and nothing that stood out. It makes no noise. No whine nothing. It's completely quiet. I tried hitting the button and holding it down. Nothing happens.
#6
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Re: Is It Safe to Say My Hatch Pull Down Motor Is Dead?
There's multiple reasons for the hatch pull down to stop working and when troubleshooting the hatch pull down motor assembly it's a good idea to check the wiring in it's entirety to rule out it's not the electrical system that's failed, something simple as a loose or broken ground wire will keep the system from working.
Is the hatch motor assembly in the up/hatch open postion or the down/closed postion?
When closing the hatch and the hatch motor is up/hatch open postion there's a three wire switch that the hatch striker bar pushes, red arrow. Without closing the hatch, using a screw driver or a pen/pencil, push down on the striker switch, called the latch switch on the drawing below. If the motor does not start to cycle the hatch motor assembly down then there's a chance the striker switch/latch switch is bad.
Is the hatch motor assembly in the up/hatch open postion or the down/closed postion?
When closing the hatch and the hatch motor is up/hatch open postion there's a three wire switch that the hatch striker bar pushes, red arrow. Without closing the hatch, using a screw driver or a pen/pencil, push down on the striker switch, called the latch switch on the drawing below. If the motor does not start to cycle the hatch motor assembly down then there's a chance the striker switch/latch switch is bad.
#7
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Thread Starter
Re: Is It Safe to Say My Hatch Pull Down Motor Is Dead?
There's multiple reasons for the hatch pull down to stop working and when troubleshooting the hatch pull down motor assembly it's a good idea to check the wiring in it's entirety to rule out it's not the electrical system that's failed, something simple as a loose or broken ground wire will keep the system from working.
Is the hatch motor assembly in the up/hatch open postion or the down/closed postion?
When closing the hatch and the hatch motor is up/hatch open postion there's a three wire switch that the hatch striker bar pushes, red arrow. Without closing the hatch, using a screw driver or a pen/pencil, push down on the striker switch, called the latch switch on the drawing below. If the motor does not start to cycle the hatch motor assembly down then there's a chance the striker switch/latch switch is bad.
Is the hatch motor assembly in the up/hatch open postion or the down/closed postion?
When closing the hatch and the hatch motor is up/hatch open postion there's a three wire switch that the hatch striker bar pushes, red arrow. Without closing the hatch, using a screw driver or a pen/pencil, push down on the striker switch, called the latch switch on the drawing below. If the motor does not start to cycle the hatch motor assembly down then there's a chance the striker switch/latch switch is bad.
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#8
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Re: Is It Safe to Say My Hatch Pull Down Motor Is Dead?
#9
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Re: Is It Safe to Say My Hatch Pull Down Motor Is Dead?
There are no available new replacements for that switch, your options are to fix what you have or find a good used switch. To replace the motor the entire assembly needs to be disassembled which will give you an opportunity to have easier access to the latch switch and the “T” switch these need to be checked or putting in a new motor isn’t going to get you anywhere. Also check the relay, does your cargo light come on with the hatch open?
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Re: Is It Safe to Say My Hatch Pull Down Motor Is Dead?
The only place I know of that fixes / sells anything for these is Lon at top down solutions.
If not, then Ive seen it where people would fix the motor into a solid position and just lightly close the hatch... I saw one in the junkyard years ago that worked PERFECTLY... i wish I grabbed it.
#11
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Re: Is It Safe to Say My Hatch Pull Down Motor Is Dead?
The only place I know of that fixes / sells anything for these is Lon at top down solutions.
If not, then Ive seen it where people would fix the motor into a solid position and just lightly close the hatch... I saw one in the junkyard years ago that worked PERFECTLY... i wish I grabbed it.
If not, then Ive seen it where people would fix the motor into a solid position and just lightly close the hatch... I saw one in the junkyard years ago that worked PERFECTLY... i wish I grabbed it.
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#13
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Re: Is It Safe to Say My Hatch Pull Down Motor Is Dead?
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...motor-not.html
#14
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Re: Is It Safe to Say My Hatch Pull Down Motor Is Dead?
Finally got back to working on this. I checked that 4 pronged connector that plugs into (I believe the reversing switch) by the motor. It has 12.5 volts just like the battery, so I assume that's fine. Anything else I should throw the multimeter on? Or just replace the motor at this point?
#15
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Car: 1991 BandittII Firebird
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Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt
Re: Is It Safe to Say My Hatch Pull Down Motor Is Dead?
Finally got back to working on this. I checked that 4 pronged connector that plugs into (I believe the reversing switch) by the motor. It has 12.5 volts just like the battery, so I assume that's fine. Anything else I should throw the multimeter on? Or just replace the motor at this point?
I don't remember have you checked the ACC fuse? The LID fuse must be good because you said the cargo light worked.
Stereo system I'm assuming? Is any part of this tied into the stereo system?
#17
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Re: Is It Safe to Say My Hatch Pull Down Motor Is Dead?
Life kept getting away outside of my car. I tested that pigtail it has voltage for both up down and continuity. I tried replacing the motor and it goes up but not down. I'm assuming that switch is bad. Problem is, I can't find one anywhere. It seems no one makes one anymore. What are my options? Is it easy to convert the car to a traditional latching?
#18
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Car: 1991 BandittII Firebird
Engine: 5.7 HSR
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt
Re: Is It Safe to Say My Hatch Pull Down Motor Is Dead?
Life kept getting away outside of my car. I tested that pigtail it has voltage for both up down and continuity. I tried replacing the motor and it goes up but not down. I'm assuming that switch is bad. Problem is, I can't find one anywhere. It seems no one makes one anymore. What are my options? Is it easy to convert the car to a traditional latching?
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