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Hello everyone, well I got a new project that I have been putting off for the last 15 years. It’s my 1988 Pontiac Trans Am. My story goes like this, I bought the car 20 years ago it was one of the gm cars that had bad paint from the factory I think?? I recall it was partially repainted at some point in the 1990’s as what the previous owner said. Progressively in the about the 5th year of me owning the car the clear started peeling away. Also I have repainted some areas like the front bumper and the side rocker panel I recall I just da sanded with 180 and primed with 2k and since then it has held up which is about 10 years. I would like to use aircraft stripper but they took the methylene chloride out of the new formula and it works like crap I hear. I have some unused plastic bumper stripper in spray cans that I forgot I had which could be used to strip the bumpers. They definitely have methylene chloride.
I tried using my bondo buster 8 in da on 80 grit and and then 40 grit. It just left deep scratches. I went over it with just 180 on a regular da and it appears to be feathering out but very slowly. Now I’m guessing the basecoat is so brittle and contaminated that it won’t sand like normal. Also, the old basecoat and clear does not smell like fresh paint with a banana like solvent odor as I’m sanding, it has like a rotten like musty cheese smell. Before I began sanding I wiped down with wax and grease remover and it was all red on the rags. I have attached some pics, I would greatly appreciate some help
Well I was wondering what would be the best way for the old paint to not to effect the new paint down the road. I’m guessing there was trapped moisture in the clear or somewhere in the basecoat, I did see some fisheyes In whatever clear is left.Or maybe it was just really old paint that I initially thought was a repaint.
I’m thinking just remove as much as I possibly can with good quality 8 inch da sanding discs down to the factory e-coat which I’m guessing is gray. I was using duragold Amazon sanding discs which I’m guessing are cheap junk compared to Norton or Mirka sandpaper. The buff colored stuff might be filler or 2k urethane primer which was probably used in spots
Lastly, could I possibly just use epoxy primer first then 2k urethane over it. But my experience in the past has always been to keep it simple as I did have a reaction bubble occur when I was repainting a corvette. I know stripping is a freaking mess and would attack seam sealer and plastic if I’m not careful and strip areas that I could not repaint like inside doors. Altogether I just don’t want to make extra work and there is probably a million ways to do it
My paint is like that, the guy who's painting it in a few months is taking it down to metal and starting fresh. He said these cars w pealing/powdery clear coat and paint are iffy to paint on and it's best to start w good bond. Im not a body guy but this guy does great work.
After you strip off anything peeling you should wipe the entire car down 3x with new rags and wax and grease remover then seal with an automotive sealer before high build
Have an 88 IROC did the same thing. Factory clearcoat chalked out. Took it down to bare metal an did an epoxy primer then a high build primer. Then basecoat clearcoat.
I used PPG Delstar i believe back in the 90's. Cut and buff. Still looks good today. Lots of work though.
I see only one repaint.......so that's good. Your best course of action is get everything to AT LEAST the factory grey you see. If some metal shows through, that's fine. You really don't know what's under that repaint. You might find some filler or or maybe a questionable repair. Get it all down and finished with 220. Then you can coat with a 2 part epoxy primer. That will effectively seal anything under it AND provide a good grip for your new paintjob. AFTER the epoxy you can lay down your "high build" and block sand to your hearts content. Finally you can repaint.
Twice.....I've NOT stripped off old material...
And twice........it bit me in the A$$ !!!!!!!
Some claim that the clearcoat peeled due to the UVA & UVB sun rays. Alos, the quality of the clear used back in the day was not the quality of today's clear.
AS previous responders stated, take it to the bare metal. Seal it & prime it. Good luck. U have a lot of work before u.
09-24-2023, 09:09 PM
