I am going to be redoing my brakes within the next month and
am looking for any suggestions on brake pads. I have searched
the site, but there are so many posts that I don't know what
pads to get. I just got some new polished centerlines and would
like a pad that has above stock braking, but with low dust. I
really don't want tons of brake dust ruining my new wheels. I
was looking at raybestos pads, but am unsure of which ones
to get. Any suggestions would be great, and if you know where
they can be purchased I would appreciate it.

 

I have been using PF Z-rated pads on all four corners for the last year with good results. They generate very little brake dust and I have 17' five spoke wheels with a silver finish. $85.00 for front and rears.

 

For everyday driving abuse, I'm SOLD on the Bendix titanium metallic's.

Get 'em at Advance...that's the ONLY Thing I buy at Advance

GREAT pad wear, good stopping, not alot of dust, and NO squealing...


And this is after trying AC delco pads, Raybestos, and several others. I'm not much on the Carbon pads for street use, they eat stock rotors.


HTH

 

I have heard about the bendix pads, but just didn't know how
good they were. I will have to give them a look, since I pass an
advance auto everyday on my way to work. Thanks

 

I'm starting to sound like a broken record but here goes again-

Stillen metal-matrix pads are the best brake pads money can buy for combination street and light track use. Much better than EBC, Hawks, performance friction, etc..

They have very little dust, They are at operating temp by the time you hit the end of your street, and they don't have "good" stopping power, they have "great" stopping power and great pedal feel- meaning a smooth initial bite (not grabby) and a larger sweet spot (you can lay on them much harder than EBC without locking. NO Fade at all with very hard street use, they actually stop better when temps rise- but are still great when cool.
http://www.stillen.com/

 

AGood2.8 - I was actually looking at the stillen web-site the other
day after reading a couple of your posts. I was wondering what
rotors you are running on your car (stillen also?).

 

Powerslot (Slotted) in the front, Stillen (Drilled) in the rear This give me a quick initial bite in the rear with light pedal- good trick for trailbraking. (I'm giving up a chassis setup secret )

Have the Stillen rotors turned even if they are new ( as you should with any new out of the box rotor- they are rarely perfect)
Powerslot rotors don't need turning when new- They are the exception to the rule- excelent quailty out of the box.

 

Here's a pic that I have of the Stillen rear rotors. This is an older pic. Shocks are now Koni's and pad is painted red to match rotor (look at current front pic below)

 

Front Powerslots

 

Sorry, I'm still a little new with braking terms... what exactly is "turning a rotor?"

 

Basically, you take the rotor(s) to an auto parts store that has a good machine shop. The shop places the rotor on a lathe and removes any surface imperfections. You end up with a rotor that has a very flat and very true braking surface.

This is a must whenever installing new high performance brake pads. It ensures that the pads break-in properly.

 

i think ima try those bendix pads i went cheap last time and oh do i regret it . I hate all the squeeking and dust.

 

Agood2.8,

That looks like some serious uspension stuff under there, what all is there?

 

Here goes nothing:

*GW steering brace
*Quick ratio box
*Baer bumpsteer kit
*Spohn swaybars (34mm solid front/ went back to the 25mm solid rear from the 23mm after front and rear shock adjustments and new tires)
*Edelbrock 3pt STB
*HMS aluminum strut mounts
*Koni race struts & shocks
*ARP wheelstuds
*Kyokugen titanium wheel lugs
*front Powerstop (slotted) rotors
*rear Stillen (drilled) rotors
*Stillen brake pads (front and rear)
*aprox 800# front race springs
*Aprox 225# rear progressive rate springs (these feel better in the rear than lineal springs and also stay in the can when the car is jacked Progressive springs compress and extend further than lineal springs)
*Stock A-arms & K member (only parts that are stock- awaiting something better than PARaicing ones- they don't look strong to me. p.s. I have broken tubular control arms on other cars before! I know what I'm looking at)
*Earl's braided lines
*Earl's Solo-bleeds
*Spohn tubular SFC's
*Spohn adj. Torque arm w/ sperical mount & loop
*Darrell Young Full race 700r4 trans (fully custom built)
*7.5"gm 10bolt w/ HD axles & bearings (I don't put down massive power in this car so I opted to just have the 7.5" beefed up- Rather than go to a 12 bolt or 9"- car is built for roadracing)
*3.23 ratio w/ Auburn posi (stock was 3.42, I went down for better range in each gear for cornering)
*Aluminum preloaded diff cover
*Spohn adj. LCA's with combo poly/rodend mounts
*BMR bolt-in relcation brackets for added brace support to shock mount/ then welded in place
*Hotchkis adj. Panhard rod
*Goodyear F1 GS-D3 tires 245/50-16
*'87 Iroc rims 16"x8" (all rears so I can rotate) 1/4" spacers front and rear



I think thats it, if not I'll edit it later.

 

ah, ok. I'm used to hearing "cutting" the rotor as the same thing. Thanks

 

any one used the creamic pads????? i heard about them but never seen them or know of anyone having them on there car personally