brake plumbing
#1
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Car: 86 z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: built 700R4
brake plumbing
i am going to be swapping a 4th gen rear into my 86 z28 which requires an adjustable prop valve. i am also going to plumb in a line lock on the front brakes. my question is do i still need to have the factory metering/prop valve or can i just take them out and run straight off the master cylinder?
#2
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the 4th gen rear doesn't require an adjustable proportioning valve. if you have the flat sided valve now you don't need to change anything. running the factory valve and an adjustable one wouldn't be the thing to do, one or the other, but you do need a porpotioning valve.
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Car: 86 z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: built 700R4
if i swap from the 86 drum rear to the 4th gen disk rear i dont need an adjustable prop valve? everything ive heard says i need one. what about the front brakes?
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Car: 1991 Trans Am
Engine: LQ4
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.70
just get a proportioning valve for a rear disc car. then you dont have to worry about bending lines, flaring them, re flaring them when they leak. spend a little extra and get a slp line lock that comes with lines and wiring, otherwise the same will apply as the prop valve
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Car: 86 z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: built 700R4
the reason im asking is so i can get rid of the factory prop valve and all assiciated bent lines, then run new lines for the adjustable prop valve for the rear and the line lock up front. my intent is to make this a cleaner looking install rather than adding more lines and leaving the factory prop valve. will the line lock and adjustable prop valve distribute fluid the same as the factory valve does or is there some reason to keep the factory valve?
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Car: candy blue 85 z28
Engine: 305 tpi LB9
Transmission: 700r4 crazy beefed up one
Axle/Gears: ones with teeth
now you do realize there is a reason for the length of the tubing correct? hydralics 101 length must be the same or you will have diffrent pressure at each brake.
anyone hear of this also? i'm no expert but have asked questions in the past on older progects.
anyone hear of this also? i'm no expert but have asked questions in the past on older progects.
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#8
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Car: 04 Xtreme Blazer
Engine: 4.3L V6
Transmission: 4L60E
Originally posted by JeffW
now you do realize there is a reason for the length of the tubing correct? hydralics 101 length must be the same or you will have diffrent pressure at each brake.
now you do realize there is a reason for the length of the tubing correct? hydralics 101 length must be the same or you will have diffrent pressure at each brake.
with a non metered/restricted line, the pressure applied at one end will be the same at the other, as long as no air is present...why you ask? fluid does not compress!, air/gas does
Last edited by Dave Y; 08-07-2004 at 09:00 AM.
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Car: 92' RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9-bolt
Originally posted by Dave Y
that is incorrect, in hydraulics, the line/hose length is NOT a factor(other than possible hose swelling) is pressure drop
with a non metered/restricted line, the pressure applied at one end will be the same at the other, as long as no air is present...why you ask? fluid does not compress!, air/gas does
that is incorrect, in hydraulics, the line/hose length is NOT a factor(other than possible hose swelling) is pressure drop
with a non metered/restricted line, the pressure applied at one end will be the same at the other, as long as no air is present...why you ask? fluid does not compress!, air/gas does
Oh and as stated before if you are going to run an adj prop valve, you don't run the stock one too.
Chris
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Car: 1997 Corvette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73 IRS
Whoa...this is news to me. I'm in the middle of a 4th gen swap and all that's left is brake line work. I was going to just rip off the lines on the LS1 rear and make my own to go from the calipers to meet in the middle to use the 3rd gen T connector. I also bought an adjustable prop valve from Summit (the one with one input, one output, and a ****).
Are you saying that I can remove the stock valve...run lines straight from the master cylinder to each of the front brakes, and then just put the adjustable valve in-line with the rear brakes? I guess it makes sense.. I never thought about that.
Oh, and also, as stated above is correct. Line length means nothing..
Are you saying that I can remove the stock valve...run lines straight from the master cylinder to each of the front brakes, and then just put the adjustable valve in-line with the rear brakes? I guess it makes sense.. I never thought about that.
Oh, and also, as stated above is correct. Line length means nothing..
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Car: 92' RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9-bolt
No, you dont run lines strait from the MC to the front calipers. The prop valve splits the pressure between the front and back brakes. It is the next thing in line from the MC, DO NOT run a line directly from the MC to the calipers
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Car: 1997 Corvette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73 IRS
...
Then why did somebody say to get rid of the stock proportioning valve and replace it with an adjustable one... or is what I bought not really a proportioning valve..it just limits the pressure in a line?
Then why did somebody say to get rid of the stock proportioning valve and replace it with an adjustable one... or is what I bought not really a proportioning valve..it just limits the pressure in a line?
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Car: 92' RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9-bolt
You replace the stock one with the adjustable one. Wait, I just reread your post, one in and one out? Thats not a prop valve, it does sound like a pressure limiter. Guess I should have read more closely the first time. I don't know what you would do with what you got.
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Car: 04 Xtreme Blazer
Engine: 4.3L V6
Transmission: 4L60E
Originally posted by 92RS shearn
No, you dont run lines strait from the MC to the front calipers. The prop valve splits the pressure between the front and back brakes. It is the next thing in line from the MC, DO NOT run a line directly from the MC to the calipers
No, you dont run lines strait from the MC to the front calipers. The prop valve splits the pressure between the front and back brakes. It is the next thing in line from the MC, DO NOT run a line directly from the MC to the calipers
the rear goes from the master to a adjustable prop valve, then the the rears
our stock prop valves do not do anything to the front pressures, just the rear, since rear drum brakes need less pressure to work
but, it you do away with the stock valve, you lose the brake pressure warning switch functions
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Car: '91 TA vert
Engine: turboLSx
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Originally posted by Dave Y
you do away with the stock valve, you lose the brake pressure warning switch functions
you do away with the stock valve, you lose the brake pressure warning switch functions
#16
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Car: 86 z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: built 700R4
Dave Y i agree with you. that was my original thourght, so would you say i can ditch the OE prop valve and run the line lock and adjustable valve and be ok.
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Car: 04 Xtreme Blazer
Engine: 4.3L V6
Transmission: 4L60E
Originally posted by sleeperZ28
Dave Y i agree with you. that was my original thourght, so would you say i can ditch the OE prop valve and run the line lock and adjustable valve and be ok.
Dave Y i agree with you. that was my original thourght, so would you say i can ditch the OE prop valve and run the line lock and adjustable valve and be ok.
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Car: 1997 Corvette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73 IRS
Originally posted by iansane
I'm surprised no one has mentioned this. To keep my stock prop valve I just gutted it(rear side) and ran the line to the wilwood adj prop. The front lines go from the stock prop valve to the line lock and custom braided line to each front brake. I need to bleed the system again though. Seems kind of squishy.
I'm surprised no one has mentioned this. To keep my stock prop valve I just gutted it(rear side) and ran the line to the wilwood adj prop. The front lines go from the stock prop valve to the line lock and custom braided line to each front brake. I need to bleed the system again though. Seems kind of squishy.
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Car: '91 TA vert
Engine: turboLSx
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Yeah, I guess I left that out. That's why I did it like that so that I could keep the stock BRAKE warning light functional if I ever have any problems or if for some freak chance I let someone else drive my car (yeah right...)
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Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 355 vortec, super victor, 13.5:1cr
Transmission: 'glide
Axle/Gears: 7.5" 10 bolt/4.56 gears
I appologize if I am re-asking a question, but i have searched and can't find answers...I am in the middle of plumbing the brakes on my 84 Z28 for drag racing..hard lines from m/c to l/l to prop to frame mounts to stainless braided tfe w/ -3AN fittings on stock calipers. what size is the brake line and/or the fittings...i am having trouble gathering all the peices. I can build it all if need be, but what materials do i start with?
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Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 355 vortec, super victor, 13.5:1cr
Transmission: 'glide
Axle/Gears: 7.5" 10 bolt/4.56 gears
what size fittings on the 84 m/c. what size fittings on the 82m/c. the 82 came with drum rear and v-6, will that m/c work on the 84 z28 four wheel disc with minimal or no pressure difference...prop not a problem..aftermarket will be in order
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