Help with brake prob.
Help with brake prob.
When I have to brake harder then normal in my '92 Camaro it pulls to right. The strength of the pull increases with how hard I have to hit the brakes. Bellow is the list of things I have done to try and fix this problem. It's really starting **** me off, so any help would be great.
Things done to attempt to fix this.
1.) Replaced both front calipers as well as pads.
2.) Replaced all ruber lines with Earl's stainless lines.
3.) Replaced both front rotors and wheel bearings.
4.) Replaced both rear pads and had the drums checked.
5.) Replaced the drivers side rear wheel cylinder due an idiot running a read light all most hitting me. Slamed on the brakes and the pistons poped out locking the drum on that side.
6.) Flushed brake fluid till all I had was nice new clean fluid.
7.) Blead the brakes manny times. Both with the traditional 2 person method, and with the MityVac hand pump. So far the MityVac is my perfered method.
So far the only things left to replace are the MC, boster, and the hard lines. HELP!!! I'm tired of just tosing parts at it and ending up with the same problem.
My stoping distance hasn't been effected by this other then reduced stoping distance, and reduced brake fade after putting on the stainless lines.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My second problem child isn't a thirdgen, but figured brakes are brakes and you guys might be able to help pin point the cause of the problem on my '68 Ford F100 (all drums).
The F word truck some times acts as if the power assit fails. does it maybe once or twice in row then returns to normal for a while.
Also in the morning when cold the brakes are extreamly graby for a short while. I mean, dam near sends you through the winshield grabby. This will waer off verry quickly if I ride the brake for about half a block.
Things done to attempt to fix this.
1.) Replaced both front calipers as well as pads.
2.) Replaced all ruber lines with Earl's stainless lines.
3.) Replaced both front rotors and wheel bearings.
4.) Replaced both rear pads and had the drums checked.
5.) Replaced the drivers side rear wheel cylinder due an idiot running a read light all most hitting me. Slamed on the brakes and the pistons poped out locking the drum on that side.
6.) Flushed brake fluid till all I had was nice new clean fluid.
7.) Blead the brakes manny times. Both with the traditional 2 person method, and with the MityVac hand pump. So far the MityVac is my perfered method.
So far the only things left to replace are the MC, boster, and the hard lines. HELP!!! I'm tired of just tosing parts at it and ending up with the same problem.
My stoping distance hasn't been effected by this other then reduced stoping distance, and reduced brake fade after putting on the stainless lines.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My second problem child isn't a thirdgen, but figured brakes are brakes and you guys might be able to help pin point the cause of the problem on my '68 Ford F100 (all drums).
The F word truck some times acts as if the power assit fails. does it maybe once or twice in row then returns to normal for a while.
Also in the morning when cold the brakes are extreamly graby for a short while. I mean, dam near sends you through the winshield grabby. This will waer off verry quickly if I ride the brake for about half a block.
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,761
Likes: 4
From: The "D"
Car: A Portly 85 Z28
Engine: 4.530 X 4.250 BBC
Transmission: under rated for this application
Axle/Gears: also under rated
I would check the flow thru the hard lines if you haven`t already...pull the flex lines off and install some rubber hose to the lines and put the pedal to the floor..see if one side is moving more fluid than the other..they should be equal. it sounds like fluid is either not getting to one side or not returning (releasing the pressure on the pads)
I've got the same problem and have replaced the same things. I've also got a fair amount of residue in the MC. With 152k I'm wondering is this the rubber seals breaking down and possibly clogging the hard lines or prop valve?
Maybe it's time for a new MC & prop valve?
Last time I bled the front each side seemed flowed about even, but neither seemed to very strong.
Maybe it's time for a new MC & prop valve?
Last time I bled the front each side seemed flowed about even, but neither seemed to very strong.
don't know about your truck, but from what I heard and read on these boards what you are describing it is a calapsing hard line which needs to be replaced.
The line may look fine on the outside, but basically what happens is that small piece of metal/rust/whatever peels off and under hard/sudden braking acts as a valve which prevents fluid from going further.
Most of the time when this is the problem, gentle braking (or blowing fluid with no pressure through the line) will be fine. So try gentle brake and slowly increase the pressure. Does it pull to the side in that case? If it only pulls under sudden braking, then most likely hardlines are the problem.
The line may look fine on the outside, but basically what happens is that small piece of metal/rust/whatever peels off and under hard/sudden braking acts as a valve which prevents fluid from going further.
Most of the time when this is the problem, gentle braking (or blowing fluid with no pressure through the line) will be fine. So try gentle brake and slowly increase the pressure. Does it pull to the side in that case? If it only pulls under sudden braking, then most likely hardlines are the problem.
Yeah it increases with how fast I hit the brakes. If I brake normally it doesn't happen at all if. If it does happen under normall braking it is so slight that I can right it off to the crown in the road.
One other thing is that if I start off braking normal but then suddenly increse presure it will pull proportionally to how fast I increse the presure. So it sounds like it would match with a bad hard line problem.
Dam I don't look foward to replacing them. Might as well do them all for saftys sake.
Thank you for your replys!!
One other thing is that if I start off braking normal but then suddenly increse presure it will pull proportionally to how fast I increse the presure. So it sounds like it would match with a bad hard line problem.
Dam I don't look foward to replacing them. Might as well do them all for saftys sake.
Thank you for your replys!!
Last edited by BitchinRS; Jan 3, 2005 at 11:21 PM.
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,761
Likes: 4
From: The "D"
Car: A Portly 85 Z28
Engine: 4.530 X 4.250 BBC
Transmission: under rated for this application
Axle/Gears: also under rated
Classic tubes kit
inline tube
I have gotten sets form inline, they are only a few miles from me..I have had good luck with thier products..nice pre bent lines
inline tube
I have gotten sets form inline, they are only a few miles from me..I have had good luck with thier products..nice pre bent lines
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After a minor accident when my right rear locked up and the other three wheels kept rolling, I decided to replace the Master & prop valve. Brakes feel much better now but still pulls to the right on hard braking.
I do hear & feel a popping in the front end when turning into a tight parking space so next up is to get a front end rebuild kit installed. Could be worn bushings & ball joints causing the problem, with 155k it's due anyway.
Once this is problem cured it's going in for bodywork & paint.
BitchinRS, did you get yours fixed yet?
I do hear & feel a popping in the front end when turning into a tight parking space so next up is to get a front end rebuild kit installed. Could be worn bushings & ball joints causing the problem, with 155k it's due anyway.
Once this is problem cured it's going in for bodywork & paint.
BitchinRS, did you get yours fixed yet?
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 896
Likes: 1
From: Coquitlam, BC
Car: 86\92 Mutant
Engine: 355CI 430HP
Transmission: T-5 with mods
Axle/Gears: 7.625", Eaton Posi, 3.73
Re: Help with brake prob.
Originally posted by BitchinRS
When I have to brake harder then normal in my '92 Camaro it pulls to right. The strength of the pull increases with how hard I have to hit the brakes. Bellow is the list of things I have done to try and fix this problem. It's really starting **** me off, so any help would be great.
Things done to attempt to fix this.
1.) Replaced both front calipers as well as pads.
2.) Replaced all ruber lines with Earl's stainless lines.
3.) Replaced both front rotors and wheel bearings.
4.) Replaced both rear pads and had the drums checked.
5.) Replaced the drivers side rear wheel cylinder due an idiot running a read light all most hitting me. Slamed on the brakes and the pistons poped out locking the drum on that side.
6.) Flushed brake fluid till all I had was nice new clean fluid.
7.) Blead the brakes manny times. Both with the traditional 2 person method, and with the MityVac hand pump. So far the MityVac is my perfered method.
So far the only things left to replace are the MC, boster, and the hard lines. HELP!!! I'm tired of just tosing parts at it and ending up with the same problem.
My stoping distance hasn't been effected by this other then reduced stoping distance, and reduced brake fade after putting on the stainless lines.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My second problem child isn't a thirdgen, but figured brakes are brakes and you guys might be able to help pin point the cause of the problem on my '68 Ford F100 (all drums).
The F word truck some times acts as if the power assit fails. does it maybe once or twice in row then returns to normal for a while.
Also in the morning when cold the brakes are extreamly graby for a short while. I mean, dam near sends you through the winshield grabby. This will waer off verry quickly if I ride the brake for about half a block.
When I have to brake harder then normal in my '92 Camaro it pulls to right. The strength of the pull increases with how hard I have to hit the brakes. Bellow is the list of things I have done to try and fix this problem. It's really starting **** me off, so any help would be great.
Things done to attempt to fix this.
1.) Replaced both front calipers as well as pads.
2.) Replaced all ruber lines with Earl's stainless lines.
3.) Replaced both front rotors and wheel bearings.
4.) Replaced both rear pads and had the drums checked.
5.) Replaced the drivers side rear wheel cylinder due an idiot running a read light all most hitting me. Slamed on the brakes and the pistons poped out locking the drum on that side.
6.) Flushed brake fluid till all I had was nice new clean fluid.
7.) Blead the brakes manny times. Both with the traditional 2 person method, and with the MityVac hand pump. So far the MityVac is my perfered method.
So far the only things left to replace are the MC, boster, and the hard lines. HELP!!! I'm tired of just tosing parts at it and ending up with the same problem.
My stoping distance hasn't been effected by this other then reduced stoping distance, and reduced brake fade after putting on the stainless lines.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My second problem child isn't a thirdgen, but figured brakes are brakes and you guys might be able to help pin point the cause of the problem on my '68 Ford F100 (all drums).
The F word truck some times acts as if the power assit fails. does it maybe once or twice in row then returns to normal for a while.
Also in the morning when cold the brakes are extreamly graby for a short while. I mean, dam near sends you through the winshield grabby. This will waer off verry quickly if I ride the brake for about half a block.
F-Word Truck: Power Assist. Check for any vacuum leaks of ANY vaccum lines but pay particular attention to the vacuum line and clamps to the booster. If there is a small air filter in the booster line ( looks like a fuel filter ), change it. These get clogged over time and will restrict vaccum to the booster.
Brake grabbing problem. Fairly common with Fords. Check condition of lining for glazing or contamination. Drums are much more sensitive to adjustment and condition of lining and drums than disc brakes. May be time to turn drums. They can get a taper.
Lining also plays a big part in eliminating cold grabbing. Cheap crap is just that ....crappola. Buy Premium quality Bendix or Raybestos.
Last edited by Chickenman35; Apr 13, 2005 at 12:25 PM.
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